Power-lok time to rebuild or replace?

[WiscoRedkneck]

So I'll start off by saying that I should have been more diligent on axle oil changes (once a year if towing/hauling heavy like most of us do)and that's likely what landed me in this position.

That being said I didn't find anywhere on this site, articles about diagnosing, repairing or just general info.

So at this point I have a chattering rear end but only on tight corners loaded or backing trailers, I tried the simple things new fluid new limited slip addative, to which I didn't gain much.

Now my questions are:

How much time do I have left before this thing grenades I only need two-three weeks.

Rebuild the power-lok and if so what would be a recommendation for parts sourcing, should I go stock clutches, gears, seals and bearings or go aftermarket or just do clutches and nothing else.  I can find clutches alone for a hundred dollars or a whole gear kit for about 385 all new Dana Spicer components, or do I source aftermarket parts from places like Yukon gear for less money but are not Dana Spicer components.

Understand that even though I can do this in my driveway I will not rebuild an axle on my only working vehicle by myself it will be taken to a friend's shop who can have a half day turn around.  He's also the one saying if I do anything I should just buy a new center section with posi or locker.   Because after I buy all the parts needed there's still a chance the power-lok carrier may not come all the way apart or may be worn to the point of needing to be replaced. 

At that point a new carrier housing plus rebuild kit plus cost to rebuild and reinstall could be as much as 50% more than an aftermarket carrier, so he says.

What do you guys think.

Thanks,

              Ben

[Dieselfuture]

When mine goes out I'll be looking at Detroit Eaton truetrac 

[Ronniemx3]

Mine 'skipped' and chattered for 5 or so years (back when this truck was owned by my dad)... started off only skipping when on full lock then gradually got worse over those 5 years. I grenaded the the rear end being a savage on the truck... turned out the clutches were metal to metal causing the issues when turning. Other than a few broked spider gears that I had caused everything looked good. I rebuilt it in a morning using spicer parts and re stacking the clutches in a different order to stock it hooks up really really well! When cold there is a slight skip on tight turns.

[Evan]

Try some hydraulic fluid in it just for kicks.

Edited April 7, 2019 by JAG1

[WiscoRedkneck]

 I'm sure it's metal on metal or pretty close. @Evan love to try but can't risk it this truck is my tool that must go anywhere needed whenever it's needed, I'm a contractor that deals with salvage and loss recovery, your worst day, (flooding tornadoes fire or what not) is when my company must and will prevail to ease your pain of loss, failure is not an option. 

I will likely just throw a Detroit at it and call it a day. Yes the fleet will be growing so soon enough maybe I can experiment.... lol

Edited April 8, 2019 by WiscoRedkneck

[Evan]

Dana 70?

If its metal on metal it cant possibly hurt.

I've got a open rear end. Haven't seen the need for locker or limited slip.

Though if I had guns on front I'd possibly try a Detroit full locker or spool. That way can lock one hub or both depending on the traction needs I'm looking for. But most of us dont have hubs, grrrr

Reason I ask is theres a dana 70 and dana70/80 hybrid.  The 70heavy duty. 

 

Theres 32 and 35 spline dana70s aswell as the 70hd hybrid 

 

I priced doing 4.10 gears in my dana60 front and 80 rear. Holy I just about shot at the cost of dana ring and pinion

[Mopar1973Man]

Man, I'm so glad I've got a plain ol' open diff. Heading for 400k miles and the only thing I need to do is change the petroleum gear oil out every 30k miles with the fresh batch of 80w-90 GL-5. Cheap and working flawlessly for a long time. 

[Evan]

I agree. Open carrier gear or or whatever I happen to have on hand at any given moment.

Mines at 296 all I've done is pinion seals on both ends

[dripley]

465k and have not touched mine except to change the fluid.

[WiscoRedkneck]

I believe it is just a 70 nothing special besides a busted posi.  The front has a Detroit in it at the moment but is waiting for its major upgrade that has been years in the making, I have a heavily modified Dana 60 kingpin high pinion with Detroit Elocker out of 77 high boy 250 built for coil springs.  The thing is probably indestructible but cost me an absolute but load of money to build a road I'd rather not venture down again..... 

[Evan]

77 isnt a hi pinon?

 

I get a warm and fuzzy feeling picturing long arms and coil over shocks along with that axle. Detroit and hubs gosh, nice

 

Post some pictures.

 

[WiscoRedkneck]

Hmm maybe I have the year wrong, I know  it's a high pinion. Everything had to be hand built took alot of trial and error. Based on the mock up chassis everything will bolt right in 

[Evan]

I think it might be 77.5 -79 is high pinion. Very desirable axle.

I built a ifs Chevy with its little brother the hp 44 out of a 78 ford. Was sweet truck . 

Did you do the fab work. Lot going on there to mock it up. Are your brackets burned in or waiting final assembly to verify it's all correct. What control arms are you running?

[WiscoRedkneck]

I'm doing a lot of the work but using guys from Thuren and local 4x4 shop to build certain parts and lead on the right path though....  Everything is burned in I have a frame half from a 2000 2500 that was made to be my jig and also was the doner truck for any parts pieces or measurements.

I'm using hand built control arms that are coming from  the 4x4 shop, I stole the spring cups off another 60 that a friend bought for his jeep and was going with leaf springs.   Now I'm just getting back into my busy season so this "fun project" will be taking a back seat again as I have other more important issues to hash out and I'll be working on the road 3-4 days out of the week, so no fun for me......