Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Injector install questions


Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Timing is too retarded for few revving typically. Even my truck will do the same thing this is totally normal.

 

 

Hrm. Ok, I'll quit worrying about it then. Also, I found the problem! 

It helps when all the copper sealing rings are the same thickness. Can't believe I didn't catch it. This goes to show you can never be too careful. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

I didn't get it started today, as I ran out of daylight. But Dieselfuture pointed out my torque values were wrong on the nozzles, and they're way too tight. I'm going to yank them tomorrow and tear them down again. Hopefully I didnt screw anything up.... 

Me and my damn bright ideas

I don't know if I do worry about them now, you already have them installed and running. Torque is more for not stripping the threads and yet be tight enough so it don't come apart. Unless you really like pulling them in and out. Are they original, how many miles on them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, dripley said:

This would mean they are used. How much is anyones guess unless you know how long they have been in there.

True. As an update on the truck, it's running again, but sounds like a couple of cylinders are dead. Tried running it at 1500 rpm, but there was so much white smoke I had to stop. Thought the law was gonna show up. 

Idk guys. I'm lost right now as to what to do except park it and see if I can find somebody with more experience than me. 

If any Colorado guys want to come help me it'd be appreciated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I would have to think it is something you messed with, nothing personal. Mine acted very similar after #6 valve bridge fell off after the head gasket install. Know anyone with a spare set of injectors you can try?

I don't, I wish I did know someone. It seems like theres a ton of air in it still. It takes forever to start, and just pours white smoke when I rev it. I cracked lines 1,3,4,and 5,and they were spraying ok. I didn't get 2 because the air horn and grid heater were in the way, and six was blocked by the lift bracket. Can I take it off and just put the bolts back in? And can I run the truck without the grid heater and air horn on? I could get all the injectors then. 

Edited by Ravewolf
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a set of used stock injectors, pay the shipping and they will be on their way I have several sets laying around with tubes right now the ones I will send were pulled from a good running truck where my friend wanted more zing and went bigger.  All the shops around here don't charge for cores so between all of us using Cummins trucks all 5.9 only one 3rd gen rest are 2nd including my mechanic who has 3 Cummins 2nd gens are starting to pile up injectors he gave me a free set of cores so I can pass on this favor.  PM me if you want.

Edited by WiscoRedkneck
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

 

17 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

I have a set of used stock injectors, pay the shipping and they will be on their way I have several sets laying around with tubes right now the ones I will send were pulled from a good running truck where my friend wanted more zing and went bigger.  All the shops around here don't charge for cores so between all of us using Cummins trucks all 5.9 only one 3rd gen rest are 2nd including my mechanic who has 3 Cummins 2nd gens are starting to pile up injectors he gave me a free set of cores so I can pass on this favor.  PM me if you want.

Hell yea man, I'll take em! You've got mail! 

This is why I love this website! Brotherhood of the Cummins! 

Edited by Ravewolf
Accidentally did a thing
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Btw some may call me a hoarder for taking their old junk but hey the right "thing" that is someone's junk can usually be repurposed or rebuilt and maybe save my butt or someone else's so cheers to being a "hoarder" lol.

Edited by WiscoRedkneck
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

I don't, I wish I did know someone. It seems like theres a ton of air in it still. It takes forever to start, and just pours white smoke when I rev it. I cracked lines 1,3,4,and 5,and they were spraying ok. I didn't get 2 because the air horn and grid heater were in the way, and six was blocked by the lift bracket. Can I take it off and just put the bolts back in? And can I run the truck without the grid heater and air horn on? I could get all the injectors then. 

1, 3, 4 and 5 with good fuel to them should start the engine just fine. It will idle rough until all the air is out but it should run. You can run it with the intake horn off no problem. I had to hunt my lifting bracket up. Took it off 8 or 9 years ago while replacing my oe injectors. The only time you really need it is for removing the head. I did not put the bolts back in the block but cannot see them being there an issue. 

 

See what happens with different injectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Gotta ask did you tighten the injectors hold down first or the cross over tubes first?

Crossover tubes, per dynamite diesel instructions, then injectors. I also held my finger on the tubes and spun the injectors a bit to make sure they were seated. 

 

5 hours ago, dripley said:

1, 3, 4 and 5 with good fuel to them should start the engine just fine. It will idle rough until all the air is out but it should run. You can run it with the intake horn off no problem. I had to hunt my lifting bracket up. Took it off 8 or 9 years ago while replacing my oe injectors. The only time you really need it is for removing the head. I did not put the bolts back in the block but cannot see them being there an issue. 

 

See what happens with different injectors.

I will once I get a stock set. Also I'm going to try and bleed all six injectors while it's running and see if that helps. I also noticed my fp gauge was bouncing while the truck was running. I think I might have to bleed the injection pump more. All in all it just acts like there's still a ton of air in it. 

 

56 minutes ago, dripley said:

Did you by any chance adjust your valves or mess with the push rod adjusters?

No, I did awhile back, but they needed to be adjusted at that point anyway. Only thing I did this time under the valve cover was remove the injectors. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Just wanted to give you all a quick update on my truck. 

Got the new injectors from WiscoRedkneck, and they worked like a charm. Truck runs alot better also. Down on power obviously because of stock injectors, but it drives much, much smoother. Also starting is a dream, I barely hit the key and it lights off. Hasn't sputtered much either, just small amounts. I'm starting to think the old 150s were going out in it and it wasn't running like it should have. 

Still getting them rebuilt in the future, but for now I'm rolling stockish. Can't wait until my hx35 comes in finally. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a heavy mobile plant tech. Have worked for Caterpillar, Finning the cat uk dealer and 4 large quarries mainly large cat and volvo machines I or anyone I know have never stripped an injector due to not being able to keep parts clean enough. These things are sonic cleaned and fingers and rag etc never touch them, all torque figures need to be right preferrably with a calibrated torque wrench as bodies are easily warped, tolerances are that tight that even heat off of fingers on one part can make it tight in it's mating part. Just something we never touch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...