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Spit/sputter misfire? Defueling?


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  • Owner

Are you sure it's a true data cable? some are just charging cable missing the data connection. I've got a few cables like that and it refuses to connect or do anything for the Quadzilla because of its only a charging cable. 

 


 

If you are on Linux I would say to fire up a terminal and the type in.

michael@michael:~$ lsusb
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub
Bus 001 Device 004: ID 058f:6364 Alcor Micro Corp. AU6477 Card Reader Controller
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 003 Device 003: ID 045e:00cb Microsoft Corp. Basic Optical Mouse v2.0
Bus 003 Device 002: ID 045e:0752 Microsoft Corp. Wired Keyboard 400
Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub
Bus 008 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 007 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 006 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
michael@michael:~$ 

As you can see I can check all my USB ports for connection. 

 

But for Windows, I couldn't help you. I've not touched a windows PC in over 8 years now. The last version of Windows I worked with barely is Windows 7. 

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I have a buddy that's a computer wiz has every windows os back to 95 and he can do Linux as well we are on the way to his house now will have more info soon and the only tube file I could find was the hard fuel tune so can I download that then make my tune with the parameters you gave me and should be fine as long as the files activate on the module via Bluetooth? Is this correct?

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So yesterday after driving and playing around with the new tunes I was interested in the data logs and my numbers where pretty low 19lbs of boost 1200 egt 100% load unfortunately I didn't screenshot it to save it so y'all could see all the parameters but I was concerned because no matter how hard I tried I couldn't even make the truck smoke so tonight I got home and played around and decided to load the stock injector race tune from the download just for the heck of it and see what happened low and behold no smoke the same spit and sputter when you slap it from a dig and the nasty pop/crack out the tailpipe when In lock up and hit i never even hit 100% throttle so my question is am I just asking for too much out of a near stock truck or do I have something wrong? Can a sovp not send the fuel I'm asking for? And if there is any test I can run on that VP to test it? 

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  • Owner

RV275 injectors. You need to look at the timing setting you over advanced. That is the only reason it popping and backfiring. 

 

I would start out with 15, 18, 21, 24 with a Max of 25. Then on the Low PSI Timing Reduct set it for 5 and then 50% scaling. Be a good start. You need a good amount of retard on sudden WOT operation. That is why the backfire or bucking. 

 

Like my truck even with 7 x 0.010 injectors, I can reach over 28* without backfiring or bucking.

 

Retarding timing will build boost rapidly by dumping more expanding gases out the exhaust manifold to the turbo. Once the turbo lights off then the Quadzilla can advance the timing and pour the fuel too it. 

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  • Owner

If your injecting the fuel too late and the ignition is occurring after TDC then the power is completely wasted and fuel most likely isn't being burned completely. Might see a gray haze. 

 

Then what is your CANBus fuel curve like?

 

Then what is your wiretap settings like?

 

Yes. I know exactly how to create massive smoke that just proves that your way over fuelled and wasting the power. Black smoke could prove that your timing is off depending on when the black smoke is seen. Black smoke is not good period! Just means your flooding out the engine and lacking boost pressure.

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Makes sense.. I'll post pics of the entire tune and then once corrected I'll post to the download section because I couldn't find any rv275/hx35 tunes and still don't completely understand how to do it myself I'm still trying to learn the if I change this number it's gonna effect that number kinda thing but I reckon that will come with time. 

MVIMG_20190417_220852.jpg

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Should I change that number? I'm really not looking for smoke but I want too see it smoke just once to verify that I'm getting the fuel in the hole then I'll turn it to whatever you tell me I'm just looking for a fun tune a screw it let's see if the trans builder did a good job tune. I haven't gotten the chance to run it with the corrected timing cause i swapped trucks with a buddy for me to take it to the shop to get it inspected. But I'll let you know as soon as I get back in the seat

Oh I forgot I have a BD stealth cover installed that's the only way thoroughbred will warranty it

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Fuel stretch too hight imo 1800 should do it. Timing too low on top, canbus goes back down, it should stay at 150 once it gets there. Pump tap 50 too high imo, means it will be at least 50% of wire tap that you have set 2200 all the time once you meet low boost, you have 2psi, should be at least 10ish, let canbus do the job first. This is all gmo. Actually try running my tune with your canbus, just change it to 150 at you 24 and up, it should pull good.

 

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  • Owner
8 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Fuel stretch too hight imo 1800 should do it. Timing too low on top, canbus goes back down, it should stay at 150 once it gets there. Pump tap 50 too high imo, means it will be at least 50% of wire tap that you have set 2200 all the time once you meet low boost, you have 2psi, should be at least 10ish, let canbus do the job first. This is all gmo. Actually try running my tune with your canbus, just change it to 150 at you 24 and up, it should pull good.

 

 

Watch out and be aware he only RV275 injectors. 

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