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Truck randomly dies HELP!

smitty 1833
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smitty 1833

smitty 1833

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Well small update it is not the ecm so got that ruled out I’m really racking brain now fellas I’m gonna get a new fuel really fuse tmrw so what it does hopefully it’s something that simple or at least I hope so 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I've seen this happen quite a bit. The fuse age and the fuse strip oxidizes. Then get weak and cracks. I've seen a starter solenoid fuse crack that would let a guy crank for about 5 seconds and quit. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and it will crank again. I've had the same thing happen on my truck too. I've seen even the smaller ATC fuses do this too. Easy part for those is run the truck till it fails then grab your test light and go around all the fuses on the test point looking for one that is hot on one side and dead on the other. Short time later it will be hot again. 

The big square fuses you need to pop the clear cover off and look closely with a magnify glass or carefully with a small tool push on the fuse element looking for separation of the fuse link. Just be careful the fuse won't take much force.  

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Evan

Evan

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To be honest I dont know. Theres a block with I think 3 bolted on them. I'd assume positive. 

 

My truck would die driving down the rd. Coast to a stop then start back up like nothing happened.  Turned out just loose nuts on the connections.  Tightened them and truck hasn't died like that in 5 or so years

Edited by JAG1
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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On 4/28/2019 at 4:53 PM, smitty 1833 said:

when it does sometimes shuts off or resets the radio,

 

The only thing I can figure out there is the PDC fuse number 1 (50 Amp) fuse powers the fuse block in the dash. That has the IOD fuse 12 in the dash. Look back at the diagrams.

 

The only thing else I can think of is a bad ignition switch why it randomly cuts out. :shrug:

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Evan

Evan

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20190501_070449.jpg

To be honest I dont know. Theres a block with I think 3 bolted on them. I'd assume positive. 

 

My truck would die driving down the rd. Coast to a stop then start back up like nothing happened.  Turned out just loose nits on the connections.  Tight end them and truck hasn't died like that in 5 or so years.

 

All lights would shut off like all power was cut. I'm sure radio we could reset to.

 

Your radio comment is the one reason I replied. I'd check the connections then check ignition.  If you cant fix it I'll only charge a small fee to remove it from your property 

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smitty 1833

smitty 1833

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I did check this grounds under the drivers battery the terminals themselves are tight but where it mounts to the wheel well was a little loose I also plan on getting a new fuel system relay fuse and I reckon I could get that bigger 50 amp one as well and cross my fingers I also read I could crack injectors lines 1&3 while cranking the truck if it spirt fuel out the VP44 is good if not than the VP44 could be the culprit but I always vp either or good are dead I didn’t know there’s an in between with em just doing the process of elimination but I strongly believe it’s something electrical 

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Evan

Evan

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I'm curious now about the block I'm going to pull leads off. Prett sure one is to ignition power or ecm.

 

I'll trial and error just for curious sake and see if one pulled causes it not to start

 

My truck 90% of the time wont trip a service engine light it will store codes

 Codes I have been unable to reset with both a updated snapon diagnostic tool and mac. I even did some voodoo touching positive cable to negative and negative to positive aswell leaving truck alone for a few days batteries unhooked.  Codes will not go away.

 

Apps didnt even trip a dash light

Edited by Evan
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smitty 1833

smitty 1833

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So I just replaced the fuel system relay the truck did fall on its face BUT the relay is warm to the touch is supposed to be warm? How much colts should it read when pulling it testing it the ignition run, and both engine control fuses get power as well as the fuel system relay but it’s warm 

Edited by smitty 1833
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