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keithb7

Towing...Your Experience Is Appreciated 98.5 24V 2500

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

 

Sure the top two gears are the same - so is first gear.  But, sometimes there are conditions such as @keithb7's 3.5 mile, 30 mph hill that makes having three gears (instead of two) to work with between first gear and the 1:1 gear a real benefit whether going up or down that hill with varying loads.  Sort of like the benefit you mentioned about improving the final drive ratio when you went from 265 tires to 245 tires.

 

So, I still think the six speed transmission is the best choice for towing - just my opinion.  Personally, I wish there was at least an eight speed manual transmission that would just drop right in.  And yes, @dripley, I also occasionally go for 7th gear.

 

- John

 

Having driven both, it’s not a fair comparison between the two.. the 6 speed is in a different league for low-mid range towing speeds. The extra gear is very noticeable, especially with the fairly small rpm band of a diesel. 

 

I always wanted a 7 speed in my 05. I rarely had gear spacing issues in the 2-4 range, but often 5th was too low and 6th was too tall. 

 

A double OD 7 speed would fix that with a .85 6th and .68 7th. 

 

Edited by AH64ID
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2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Kind of like a VW yanking a tree stump eh?

 

My VW could yank a tree stump just fine, haha.

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I see.  Not only was I not sure where to put it at,  I wasn't sure if toggle switch would let elec "bleed over" and produce inaccurate temps.   

My first in the very beginning...thought was to use probe of that pana Pacific temp gauge. But temps are to high for pana Pacific imo, but not 100% sure.  

 

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13 hours ago, AH64ID said:

A double OD 7 speed would fix that with a .85 6th and .68 7th.

 

That would work!

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That would be pretty darn good. Then search for me would be 8th. Cant seem to get it out of my system

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10 hours ago, 015point9 said:

I wasn't sure if toggle switch would let elec "bleed over" and produce inaccurate temps.   

No. It's safe I've already talked to Michael Pliska at ISSPro. A toggle switch is fine to use.

 

10 hours ago, 015point9 said:

But temps are to high for pana Pacific imo, but not 100% sure.  

Yes way too high. Transmission and differential temperatures can run pretty high. Like my gauge is 100 to 280 transmission temp gauge.

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Posted (edited)

I towed my 1938 Plymouth car over 450 or so miles of hiway at various grades over the weekend. I towed an 1800 lb trailer loaded up with a 2800 lb car as well as as additional 400 pound engine block. 

 

I was very impressed. The auto tranny was just fine on normal roads and hi-ways. I switched off the OD when climbing hills. Braked and geared down on descents.  No issues with brake heat due to excessive breaking. 

 

The only issue seems to be the darn steep winding hill near my house. It’s cooking my breaks. It is too winding and steep to lay off the brakes,  and descend safely. 

Otherwise the auto tranny and the 24V 5.9 are certainly adequate for my needs.  Dang. 

Edited by keithb7

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Posted (edited)

4wd right? Take a look at a posi-lok, it will let you use 2wd Lo range which should give some additional gearing reduction for the grade. 

Edited by AH64ID
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Yes my truck is 4x4. Posi-lock?How does that look? I’m unsure. How could I get 2 wheel low? Thx. 

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20 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Yes my truck is 4x4. Posi-lock?How does that look? I’m unsure. How could I get 2 wheel low? Thx. 

 

It removes the OE actuator for the CAD and gives you a manual lever inside the cab. This way you can put it in Lo range and keep the front axle disconnected, and thus 2 Lo. 

 

http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html

 

 

 

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Like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 would be good one for the CAD lever mod. If you got the older series axles you can convert to manual pull cable for the axle. Like my 2002 is a solid axle so this is not possible. The vacuum CAD is a rather pain in the butt. Like 1996 Truck has always had issues with locking and unlocking the axle and also staying locked. Pull knob is a good solution for those issues.

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Just purchased a fifthwheel I presently run a smarty on it's own not the best for towing as mentioned so if I combine the edge ez it will advanced the timing which will drop the egt's should be a lot better?  

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12 hours ago, wagntagn said:

Just purchased a fifthwheel I presently run a smarty on it's own not the best for towing as mentioned so if I combine the edge ez it will advanced the timing which will drop the egt's should be a lot better?  

Never run two tuners than advance timing. Bad news bears.

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12 hours ago, wagntagn said:

Just purchased a fifthwheel I presently run a smarty on it's own not the best for towing as mentioned so if I combine the edge ez it will advanced the timing which will drop the egt's should be a lot better?  

 

Stacking tuners is a bad news period. You just turn the throttle into a light switch going from 0 to 100% in mere 1/3 throttle. Be better off upgrading to a full Edge Juice or Quadzilla. Both will give you a wider range of fuel control but Quadzilla is more controllable. 

 

The problem with stacking is there is only 0 to 4095 in CANBus signal stacking like I said just makes it reach 4095 quicker but will never exceed 4095. If you wanting more fuel or power you are going to have to consider wiretap this will extend the fuel even more. Either way, both Edge EZ and Smarty have to play by the ECM rules period and can't exceed that. Wiretap is where you break than limitation.

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Proof that the Cummins will pull a house, a small house, but still a house.

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Posted (edited)

All my friends and wife want me to sell my truck and buy something newer quieter with more room, but they have no idea what they're talking about either. I told them all to pitch in and I'll buy a brand new mega cab with a Cummins in it, then all I need to spend money is on delete kits, etc.

Edited by Dieselfuture
Autocorrect
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just collected a 9klbs travel trailer, standard 2500 4x4 QC no mods at all ate the job easy, slow but easy, we are limited to 60 mph here in UK towing so set cruise to 55 OD off, truck loved it, I was passed by every Euro caravan in the UK and every large truck but 55mph it did for 150 miles, trailer brakes and truck brakes no problems

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I agree guys my 24V eats up normal driving conditions. Hwy or city roads.

 

However, try a 10% grade down hill for 3 miles towing a heavy load. Auto tranny dropped into first gear. Keeping your speed at under 30 mph...I have found the limits of a stock truck. Everytime I hit the brakes this week I am reminded. 

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6 hours ago, keithb7 said:

I agree guys my 24V eats up normal driving conditions. Hwy or city roads.

 

However, try a 10% grade down hill for 3 miles towing a heavy load. Auto tranny dropped into first gear. Keeping your speed at under 30 mph...I have found the limits of a stock truck. Everytime I hit the brakes this week I am reminded. 

I was in Western Canada last year for 2 weeks... not driving I may add and I can tell you we DO NOT have roads like you guys some of the hills would be like paving a highway off of the top of our highest mountain/hill so I doubt I'd ever see brake fade 

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Like I learned from another member here might not get brake fade but just the heat of long downhills is enough to heat up the grease in the unit bearing and make them fail premature. Unit bearings are not cheap.

 

At least in Idaho. We've got a few that as steep or more.

Image result for mopar1973man 16% grade sign

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Although exhaust brakes and manual trans are ideal for towing they do come with an expensive price tag for the upgrade, and we’re talking in the thousands here. @keithb7 Your set up is not overcoming the stock set up of your truck by no means, even if you load up your travel trailer to the max you shouldn’t see more than 6-7000 lb. trailer weight,  

I would check and see if your truck has the load sencing valve on rear brakes, look under your rear diff on left side shock absorber and if their is a rod attached that goes to a valve mounted on the frame that mean your truck is equipped with the load sensing valve that restricts fluid to your rear drum brakes according to the weight in rear of truck. I will try to post a TSB link that explains this and is easy fix.  

Also you said that you had a weight distribution bar on your travel trailer, to me that seems over kill on a trailer that size with a 3/4 ton truck, meaning you want more weight on your rear axle to get the rear brakes more effective and not putting so much demand on the front brakes. I have a 10k flatbed bumper pull and with a mini x or bobcat or even a vehicle on it, I just hook and go, no weight distribution hitch, it just seems your robbing precious weight from your rear axle and putting more demand on the front and trailer brakes. Our trucks are front heavy to begin with.

 

have you checked the condition of your trailer brakes, they are electro magnetic controlled and besides checking shoes and adjustment the magnets usually have wear indicators showing when to replace the magnets, it’s not uncommon to replace a set of magnets before the shoes wear out.  

 

All in all trailers that are 10k or under are not overwhelming the ability of these trucks in stock form even with the puny 47re and no EB. you just got to take it a little slower and be ready for the unexpected. I tow up to 15k with my 5 ver hooked up and boat on my truck and even with rolling hills its ok and I’m confident that the trailer brakes and truck brakes working together will stop me if a sudden need arises. Its the mountain passes that I will avoid if I can, like wolf creek pass that’s 9 miles long with 6-9 % grade. The last two miles is the worse.

 

I run this pass on a continuous basis with the semi hauling large cat equipment and such but I’m set up with an 18 spd. and jake, I will not attempt it in the Dodge if loaded more than 12k Going up is bad enough and coming down is even worse.

 

BD4573F9-A277-4FDA-9566-D42DA7EAA366.jpeg

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