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Posted (edited)

The truck I bought 10 months ago had a lot of frame, cab corner/rocker, front fender rust.   The rear fender just starting to blister in the wheel well and the  cab floor boards are solid with some light surface rust some spots.   That being said I could deal with these rust issues but...

 

 

Copied this thread over from Cumminsforum.com since can not upload photos...

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/auto-body/2482091-1999-ram-2500-rusted-out-cab.html

 

 

Quote
 
 
I also have another rust out location which totally caught me off guard!

I have a broken dash, a leaking heater core and water leak around rear window so removed all of the interior.
After removing the instrument panel from the truck, notice some daylight between driver 'A' pillar and the steering column cab support. Poking at the rusty sheet metal and my fingers went right through.  

Remove the wipers and cowling cover to get a better idea what is going on. Notice on this truck the firewall does not go all the way up to the windshield but there is a large plenum space. The interior cab side of this space the seam sealer coating in the trough has all flaked apart. The space by the driver A pillar has heavy rust from where water was standing. The drains are in the cowling space. Truck was parked outside for three years on a uphill incline so assume this was cause with the water pooled in this location.

Debating course of action - since I will also have to deal with rocker/cab corner replacement on both sides, a cab replacement from a drier southern location may be better option.

Right now leaning to just address the rusted areas and weld in new metal where base metal is thin.

Need suggestion recoating the inside of this plenum space.

Bob G.
 
 
 

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Edited by JD435
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Mine is not as bad , but more than once I thought about what if and every time a rust free cab sounded like a good idea. 

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I have to vote for a cab swap after seeing the prices and all the odd shapes needing replacement. Looks very labor intensive. 

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Same here, that cab is too far gone. 

 

Always got to make sure to wash all mud and vegetation of the truck that includes flushing the cowl out. Up here with Idaho DOT using more and more salt you got to make sure the mud is nowhere on the truck. The mud holds the salt to the metal and then continues to rot the body.

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15 hours ago, Timd32 said:

 

A few days ago started looking on car-parts down south in NC,SC,GA to see what is available.  This got me thing about cab swap after seeing a few cab potentials then decide to search from zip 78108 in Texas where my wife has some family who we visit at xmas every few years.  Frustrated not having the opportunity to go truck shopping and searching the junk yards while down there...

Well found several 2-door std cab with same silver color in good shape looking at the photos down in that part of of the country.

I seen those trucks list when searching.  There are alot of 1500's out there!

 

Questions: 

- Is the 1500 cab same as a 2500/3500 std cab? 

- Is the transmission tunnel part of the floor different regarding auto/manual other than the floor opening for the stick?

- Some listing say 'Cab Assembly' and have a higher price - assume this means complete cab with remaining interior?

- Seeing cabs in the $200 to 500 range - assume these would be price for a stripped down cab?

- Any one buy a cab through the Car-part network and have it shipped a good distances?

 

My current thinking is just patch the hole to get the truck drivable in order to do a road trip for a replacement cab.

 

Bob G.

 

 

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location dependant....

i locate rust free 1500's on a daily basis.

 

i am eyeing one nownfor myself, siler qc 1500 2wd...fairly low miles, rust free and no body damage, just midly faded paint, but clear is intact.

it runs great, and does drive but trans slips...$2200.  

 

total steal in my book when you price time and labor of body work. now with having a company truck again...mine just might get all pretty again.

 

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19 hours ago, JD435 said:

Any one buy a cab through the Car-part network and have it shipped a good distances?

All my local places on that service are quality yards, I dont see any local places on my lists that I would not deal with.

 

We ship all sorts of stuff for my business, its really up to the shipper not the yard. Get a bad driver you get extra damage, get a good driver you get same level of damage as was loaded. 

 

Ask for some extra pics and exactly what is included.

 

Im not sure but I remember folks saying the 1500s are good cabs for 2500/3500.

 

 

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Ram 1500, 2500, 3500 cab, doors, hood, grill, fenders, and interior parts are the same.  Suspension, brakes, and drivetrain are a different animal.

,

I go to the pic-a-part yards, there are 5 of them with in 50 miles of me, all the time.  You can find Ram 1500 all the time but 2500/3500 are rare, they're V10s and no diesels    In SoCal there is very little rust on these parts due to no snow/salt on the road and no flood damange.

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The hood, left and right door and fender part numbers are the same for 1997 and 1999 so the cab will be the same.

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