HELP

[Dmann]

So I just rebuilt my motor got it put back in the truck and everything hooked up. Went to crank it up and it won’t even click the starter. But I am Getting power down to the starter. I also noticed my WTS light isn’t coming on at all. Could they be the same problem? What could be the problem? Thanks in advance!

[dave110]

Power to the starter only means the big wire is hooked up to the battery. Do you have power to the smaller trigger wire for the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position? There are 2 or 3 military style plugs up by the firewall. Are you sure they are all connected right? Sounds to me like the key switch signal is not going through i.e not connected.

[Royal Squire]

Might be starter solenoid fuse in power dist. center on left fender well 

[NIsaacs]

Neutral safety switch?  

[dripley]

The WTS is a funtion of the ECM. It is only on for a couple seconds at key on in this warm a weather. Should be the first light illuminated on the dash.

 

You can hot wire the solenoid on the starter to check and see if it is a starter issue. I would definitely go back and check your electrical connections just to be sure they are clean and tight. 

Edited June 14, 2019 by JAG1

[Dmann]

Update: got the wait to start light on. Took the starter off my other Cummins And it will crank if you hot wire the starter it will crank but won’t do anything with the key. 

Edited June 15, 2019 by Dmann

[IBMobile]

At the starter relay check for power at terminal 30, then for power at terminal 86 with the key in the start position then report back. 

Is this an auto or a stick?

[dripley]

Could be the starter relay in the PDC. Swap the horn relay with it and see if starts, as long as the horn works. They are the same kind of relay. 

 

I have the same problem in mine. I hate electrical problems. Think I would rather replace the head gasket again as chase them down.

Edited June 15, 2019 by dripley

[JAG1]

4 hours ago, dripley said:

Could be the starter relay in the PDC. Swap the horn relay with it and see if starts, as long as the horn works. They are the same kind of relay. 

 

I have the same problem in mine. I hate electrical problems. Think I would rather replace the head gasket again as chase them down.

Electrical is a funny animal....Travels at the speed of light yet takes forever to find its understanding. Causing big head pain eventually creeping to other parts of the body. Enough pain for a day, or several days with loads of coffee, even beer can suddenly trigger its understanding and you say to yourself....''Damn, where did that come from?'' 

[Dieselfuture]

Something isn't powering you're vp, try a hot wire test for vp see if it runs then. You can try to hot wire a starter and if it turns over but doesn't start then vp isn't getting juice be my guess, idk 

Edited June 16, 2019 by JAG1

[dave110]

If it all worked before the engine was out and doesn't now you forgot to plug something in.  It's possible but doubtful that relays and fuses just suddenly failed after an engine installation. You said you got the  to come on. How? Which of the many suggestions above have you tried? Makes it easier for us to know if we're on the right track.

[Dmann]

Hey sorry for the delay message back. I got it all figured out. I pulled the computer off the side of the block and sanded down where it meets and put die electric grease and it started to work and the key problem was the relay was bad. 

 

Got it all started and had antifreeze leaking from the back of the motor. Dropped the tranny again thinking it was a freeze plug on the back and started it up to confirm and it’s knocking hard from the oil pan. Getting ready to drain the oil and drop the pan now. And one got any suggestions on what u could be running into now? I just need to get my truck back on the road haha

[dripley]

Dont know about the knock but the head gasket might leaking back there. @Mopar1973Man just went thru that one. Mine sprung a leak at the right front corner about a year ago. 

[Dmann]

Dropped the oil pan and found that one of the bolts for 4th cylinder rod cap had snapped, took the other one out and it had a curve to it. Was able to remove the broken bolt out by hand. The bearings and cap look good and I felt around on the crank and no scarring occurred. Now just waiting for the new bolt because none of the part stores around me can get them. Any thoughts on how this could have happened, or why it didn’t break when torqued down to spec? 

[JAG1]

That is weird unless it was over torqued. Is the rebuilder a reputable Cummins builder? I can't see a guy in a hurry just using an impact on something like that. Weird!

[Dmann]

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

That is weird unless it was over torqued. Is the rebuilder a reputable Cummins builder? I can't see a guy in a hurry just using an impact on something like that. Weird!

I rebuilt it, not the first one I’ve done but definitely the only one I’ve done that’s ever caused me this many problems. I torqued it down to what the book said to, that is why I’m kind of puzzled at this point. 

[wil440]

I'd be fitting new rod bolts torqued while rod off of the crank and getting a mic on the rod to check it's not ovalled and is to the FSM, is there any evidence of an old crack on the bolt ? I have never seen a rod bolt break straight after a new build start. Did the crank turn free after torquing the bolts.  Also I'd renew all rod bolts just to be sure

[Dmann]

Got everything all back together. Took it down the road last night and it starts spitting and sputtering about 2, 000 RPM.  Lots of white smoke. I have a air dog and my filters were pretty clogged gonna change them now, but gauge is still reading 16psi of fuel. Have 150hp injectors with less than 1000 miles on em. And suggestions?

Edited June 29, 2019 by JAG1
Grammer

[JAG1]

What all did you do to it when you say you got it all back together?

[Dmann]

I rebuilt the motor and then ran into problems with rod bolts got them changed and put everything back together. When I rebuilt it I put all new gaskets, new pistons and all new bearings.