Front Wheel Work...Follow up

[keithb7]

I recently performed my first rotor swap on my 98.5 2500. I pounded out the wheel studs with a single hit of a 5lb sledge. Easily came out. I swapped the wheel bearing assy over to the new rotors. Used same sledge to set the studs back in the same wheel bearing housing. A few studs did not want to set back in place flush. I whacked ‘em a few times and carried on. Thinking I’d pull ‘em right thru when I torqued the lug nuts up at wheel installation. 

 

Well I’m still cranking a few nuts tight. I’ve been test driving and get a slight vibration when braking. I have driven, braked and got hubs warm, then retorqued 3X.  Seems I am almost there as the vibration is improving with each retorque. 

 

What is the correct procedure? A hydraulic press I assume? To seat the wheel studs in the bearing hub properly, the first time? 

 

I’m goin back in as I decided to order up new front wheel bearings. Mine appeared original. I ordered new NGK USA built bearings. Came with new studs too. I’d like to seat them right this time.

 

Also I read 175 ft lbs on the centre nut for bearing pre-load. Plus a little more to align the cotter pin.  Seems high but I have limited experience with the truck. I’m used to 3-4 ft lbs on other light vehicles I’ve owned. This Torque is right? Just double checking. I appreciate your experience Thx. 

 

Edited June 19, 2019 by keithb7

[Tractorman]

44 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Also I read 175 ft lbs on the centre nut for bearing pre-load. Plus a little more align the cotter pin.  Seems high but I have limited experience with the truck. I’m used to 3-4 ft lbs on other light vehicles I’ve owned.

 

The 175 lb/ft is not preloading a bearing.  This torque is securing the splined axle shaft through the hub assembly by clamping the inner bearing races to the machined shoulder of the splined axle shaft.  No forces on the bearings.

 

Not sure what's going on with your vibration.  Did you have any vibration before you replaced the rotors?

 

- John

[keithb7]

I had heated up my old rotors and had a caliper of unknown age seizing. So I had some vibration but it felt different. I installed new rotors, calipers and pads. If the couple of studs were not quite seated properly I was thinking they were the culprit. 

 

As mentioned I am going back in to install new wheel bearings with new studs. Thinking I should press in the new studs. Ensuring they are fully seated. 

Edited June 19, 2019 by keithb7

[hdpwipmonkey]

When I did mine, I used a stack of fender washers and a nut that threaded onto the stud and an impact to pull the studs through.  Oil everything up so the washers slide on each other.  Worked like a charm.