Cummins died

[WiscoRedkneck]

So my Cummins 53 block with 387,000 and change lost compression along with other issues in cylinder 5 and 6 this still stems from the previous post about injection pump failure.

I intend to rebuild so looking at options

1- find 24 valve non 53 donor rebuild and install or if in good enough shape don't rebuild

2- buy a 12 valve rebuild with donor parts from 24 valve pistons head and such and make p-pumped 24 valve. 

Right now it seems cheaper and an overall better option to go for number 2.

Tell me what you guys and gals think I need to make a wise choice here the next 400k depend on it.... lol

[Dmaney]

Guess it depends on how much of a time crunch you are in. Is there a reason you can't rebuild your engine? If you rebuild it you know what you have. Find a good running donor would be next option for me. If you like tinkering and want to make some power P-pump is the way to go. Just have to take the time to dial it in. 

[Evan]

Is the block cracked?

 

When mine quits itl tear me to peices , but ohhh man what fun itl be working her over

[WiscoRedkneck]

No crack in block, block is a 53 block.  I just bought another truck so the time crunch is not on the table, not to mention most of the work is being done by my good friend who is an ASE heavy mechanic by trade and will not ever rebuild a 53 block.  That being said the overall goal of the truck is to get it back on the road, but increase power and reliability along with eliminating all of the vp44 short falls. 

The other issue is finding a good donor option of which I will at least open up and rebuild if needed fyi 24 valves are not easy to come by and wiring gets to be a concern at times and they are expensive.  I have no rust and a lot of new parts in her, so I'm planning on another 400k with no hiccups including lift pumps or injector pumps.

[98whitelightnin]

I dont think I could spend the money on rebuilding a 53 block myself. What does an overhaul cost on one of these motors?

[Mopar1973Man]

About $5,000 for a rebuild on a guess. 

 

Don't do option 2. You regret it. Majority of people that p-pump a 24V engine ends up losing MPG and parking the truck. Like Tfaoro is one and he end up buying a 4th gen that was reliable. 

Edited June 26, 2019 by Mopar1973Man

[WiscoRedkneck]

Thanks Mike, you have officially seconded my friends advice, go with option 1. So I will find a lower mileage doner truck 24v and rebuild if needed I currently have a brand new injection pump unused, not to mention brand new injectors new transmission and a crap load of small parts and pieces that have been replaced. 

Now the question is what to do to it while tinkering in there.....

[98whitelightnin]

I never had a single problem with my vp in my old 98 but I got a good deal on p-pump and all swap parts so I made the swap. Never had a single issue with that setup either and actually got my best mpg with the little 160 p-pump with all the free pump mods.

[Mopar1973Man]

There is a reason the VP44 was a upgrade to the p-pump. The VP44 has dynamic timing and way better tuning over a mechanical P-pump. Yes I'll admit P-pump is a awesome platform for racing or competition use but difficult to tune. Then with VP44 and Quadzilla you can take advantage of up to 32° BTDC timing where the P-pump is static and locked to one timing. P-pump can put down more fuel than VP44 but VP44 is more street friendly and you don't end up giving up things like cruise control. Like my truck if I p-pump the engine cruise is fly by wire so cruise control would be lost. 

 

Or grab your mobile device and tune...

...can't be done on a p-pump...

 

P-pump you need to measure the lift of the pump piston and pull the gear and preposition on the shaft. 

Edited June 27, 2019 by Mopar1973Man

[98whitelightnin]

Im not sure what all the differences are between 99 and 2002 motors but here is one I just came across on craigslist

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/terrell-2002-dodge-cummins/6908422419.html

[JAG1]

1 hour ago, 98whitelightnin said:

Im not sure what all the differences are between 99 and 2002 motors but here is one I just came across on craigslist

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/terrell-2002-dodge-cummins/6908422419.html

I been lied to in situations like that..... so I ask is there anyway you can strike up a fair deal to get it running before you have to pay in full? Something like that anyway.... I wouldn't want to spend a bunch of time/ money on something I couldn't see hear running first. I've always wanted to find a good parts truck that is driveable.

[98whitelightnin]

I agree, especially since he stripped the block down.

[JAG1]

98whitelightnin is right. stick with what you know is right no guessing on a situation like yours. It ain't worth it.

[WiscoRedkneck]

At this point I want a running parts truck 98.5-02 24 valve, otherwise I will buy a remanufactured short block making sure it is not a 53.  Then I will have the head gone through harness cleaned, inspected and repaired as needed.  Transmission will be opened up and any parts in question will be replaced.  Whole chassis is getting pressure washed and prepped for storage I will look for a parts truck for 3 months then buy a short block and proceed forward.

[WiscoRedkneck]

Update, apparently fitting a ram through a 9' wide opening on an angle isn't exactly easy.... we might have scuffed the paint a bit but my good friend ex police officer threaded the needle today and put the truck to sleep for a little bit.  Already working out new plans for the truck going forward, this will be the second major overhaul so no rock will be left unturned.  I have spent less than the window sticker price(second owner) and put on about 200k.  So far the truck has never totally stranded me up until now.  I think she earned the right to have another 5-10k thrown at her.  Especially if it gets me another 200k maybe 300 if I'm lucky