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Did mine with Moog about 8 years and 250k ago and they are still good. For how long is anyone's guess. This was pre federal mogul buy out though. I have no experience with their products today.

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I have replaced the track bar once since install all those years ago. Have about 100k on the replacement.

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Wheb you shortened the drag link, you just cut an inch off or did you have to do any welding? Any other fab work?

 

@dripley did you do just the track bar? I have one also on the dodge, seems to have worked ok, but its bigger than my stock one and shifted the truck a bit. Had to adjust the steering wheel actually.

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Just cut about an inch of threads off one side of the drag link. It worked without doing so, but the steering wheel was off 45°. After cutting I had plenty of space to adjust

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Posted (edited)

BIG NOTE HERE....

 

certain parts are easier to replace if need by the parts house...i remember calling a couple to see what was more readily available...then i cut the other side. that way if i ever needed to replace the part on the road, it would fit.

 

some have had to trim the crossover (pre-00) and others the drag link ( stock height usually), some have had to do nothing.

Edited by Stormin08
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Theres reports of track bar lengths varying from bar to bar to manufacture depending on who made it etc. Even varying in the same manufacturer 

 

Our 07 work truck eats all track bars moog mopar autozone. Itl eat them in a month.

 

My heim bars now been on now for a few months I'm watching it close.

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Posted (edited)

My OEM tie rod ends lasted till 350k miles. Replaced with greasable NAPA and so far still doing great. Steering is still tight and still straight. Almost to 390k miles. Still running 1,000 miles a week. I know there is no reason to chase the upgrade ends (T vs Y steering) nor attempt to chase down the OEM original that lasted 350k miles being its no longer manufactured and I've got no lift or leveling kits so the geometry of my front axles is still correct. I'm running 30 inch tires (254/75 R16) and it reduces the stress on the joints just a bit. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My OEM tie rod ends lasted till 350k miles. Replaced with greasable NAPA and so far still doing great. Steering is still tight and still straight. Almost to 390k miles. Still running 1,000 miles a week. I know there is no reason to chase the upgrade ends (T vs Y steering) nor attempt to chase down the OEM original that lasted 350k miles being its no longer manufactured and I've got no lift or leveling kits so the geometry of my front axles is still correct. I'm running 30 inch tires (254/75 R16) and it reduces the stress on the joints just a bit. 

Ya, I know what you mean, but my front end was rebuilt just before i bought the truck with 180k miles, with greasable tierod ends, no over sized tires ( actually had 235s on it for a while) I grease it, I dont have a lift, its mainly highway miles, and I'm now at 256k miles, with bad tie rod ends and other problems( suchbis life)

No garuntee the moog will do much better, and I may not go that route. I'm just tired of cheap crap, NAPA is just like any other auto parts store, they care less about quality parts, they just want my money. I may get OEM tie rods still, havent yet decided. No matter what route I go, I'll be getting taken advantage of one way or another, be it expensive parts, or lifetime warranty cheap parts. USA made or not, no garuntee it will be better than what else is out there. But what can you do but try it one way and hope for the best.

 

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Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

 

 

@dripley did you do just the track bar? I have one also on the dodge, seems to have worked ok, but its bigger than my stock one and shifted the truck a bit. Had to adjust the steering wheel actually.

This my 3rd track bar. The OE and 2 Moogs with the larger stud on it. The latest one has about 120k and holding up still. I did have to adjust steering wheel a bit on this last one. Truck seems centered over the cab just fine. The first Moog replacement went on with a full replacement of all the steering joints and all had adjusted. When this goes I will most likely get another Moog.

 Rebuilt the whole front end with Moog 8 or 9 years ago and it is still going strong for now.

 

This was just prior to federal mogul buying them out.

Edited by dripley

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i understand someones desire to save cost, using lifetime warranty parts...and i agree on certain parts, but take the balljoints for example. i dont have the time to swap out bad joints for warranty...i have run the synergy balljoints for 100k miles and no issues...this is a lifted front end, with a 34" tire. i am certain overall height may add some wear, but the wheel backspacing is what kills the BJ and steering.

 

i think the scrub line of a tall tire, narrow or tucked wheel helps keep things happy.

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So I thought I'd give an update.

I went with moog for tierod and drag link. 

Finally getting around to installing,  just difficult when i work and have to go to parents to work on it because of living in an apartment, so I spend a couple hours working on it here and there. I decided to check the ball joints since front end is in the air, and to my wonderful surprise, they have play (lateral) on driver upper and much worse on passenger, both upper and lower. I definitely see some of the wear on the passenger tire especially. When it rains, it pours I guess.

 

What ball joints do you guys recommend?

Spicer? Synergy? Raybestos? I don't want to be replacing these often. I've heard some aftermarket ones are bigger than stock, and require reaming them out, which I dont want to do. 

 

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Have about a year on napa ball joints. Driver side lower is getting loose. Not sure how many miles on them 30k maybe.

They are warranted but not something I'm just gona whip in the shop and change.  In a few minutes.

 

Carli ball joints might be a better option but cost alot more though saving labor/time expense.

I do all my wrenching and right now I cant afford to stop working and change ball joints. That means a machine or truck isnt worked or I'm falling behind on maintaining and repairs in other areas. 

 

 

 

My 7/8" heim track bar is holding up so far. When they do wear out its minutes to toss new joints in.

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Ac Delco ball joints and drag link here along with NAPA trac bar and TRE. My Spicer ball joints lasted a whole 12k. I won't use that junk again. I have a pair of their axle joints laying on the shelf and I'm scared to put them in. I'll probably sell them.

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19 minutes ago, dave110 said:

My Spicer ball joints lasted a whole 12k. I won't use that junk again.

 

Why not? That was Dodge OEM parts.

 

Oh, that's right OEM isn't what it was 17 years ago. :shifty:

 

20 minutes ago, dave110 said:

I have a pair of their axle joints laying on the shelf and I'm scared to put them in.

 

I would. Winter is coming and 4WD usage will go up and sucks to do these in the cold.

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Nothing is, not even me. 20 years ago for mine.

 

Mine are not bad yet. I bought these when I did the ball joints the first time figuring while I'm in there anyway. Originals are still good but when I go to replace them I think I'll e-bay the Spicers and get some Delcos. That stuff seems to be holding up well for me.

 

Fire wood heated garage. No more freezing this guys a** off :woot:. Been there done that.

Edited by dave110

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I think you'd do good with those. Mine are doing well but I don't have a ton of miles on them  either. Rock Auto buys closeouts and bulk deals and gets better pricing that way. I've already bought struts from them that said unmarked package or something like that and when I opened the plain box there were NAPA pro's inside.

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Ball joints still give me headaches. My Moog are still holding for now after 240k. If I replace them again it should be the last time.

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Tie rods are in, trackbar replaced, and things keep piling up.

 

I have to keep and eye on the tierod, its doesnt have the curve my stock one had, and seems to get real close to the diff. Cover.

 

Does anyone know if the bilstein 5100 stabilizer will fit the second gen dodge? It looks just like the one I pulled off my truck today. Its attached differently compared to my dad's 99, his is u-bolted to the tierod, while mine goes into it.

 

Also, the shaft coming from the steering box to the pitman arm is loose, which probably means I'm going to be doing the redhead quicker than I wanted. 

When I do that, should I get the steering brace also?

 

This sucks, my front end will literally be torn apart and rebuilt by the time I'm done.(axel seals and ball joints next, plus front brakes.) No oversized tires, no crazy driving or off roading, just a piece of crap front end prone to failure, and a hole in my wallet:spend::broke:

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I'll agree that the steering isnt the best design.  But for 244 k its survived. It's just now time to do maintenance. 

 

I'm not huge on the steering brace. It may or may not help but it definitely will not keep the frame from flexing. Might just be money and no benefit. Some say they work amazing. But so is mine with no brace at 312k.

 

Keep in mind the front of truck and engine then steering box on the middle.  Whatever flex is there is already being faught in front and behind the box.

 

New parts most likely wont take the truck to 488k because they're junk these days but they will go along time.

 

Youl probly suck all the oil off the air filter though. Lol. Joking

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