Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We can see that your guest and been lurking about. When you register on the Mopar1973Man.Com site you'll be able to interact with all the other members. This is the most friendliest Cummins forum you'll ever join. Take the time right now and  REGISTER  on the Mopar1973Man.Com this will open up many more options and functions on the website. Everyone is very friendly and helpful just ask questions and everyone will help you out the best they can. 

JAG1

47re Trans Service Tips and Tricks

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Loosen the locknut so that the adjustment screw can be turned.  Tighten adjustment screw to the specified in/lb.  Then back off the adjustment screw the specified amount of turns.  Then hold the adjustment screw at that position while snugging the locknut.  Then tighten the locknut to specified torque.

Edited by Bullet
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

That's what I did except I did it twice to make sure I backed off the rear one 3 times. Could not remember if I counted right. 

 

The pan and gasket are on with all bolts hand tight. Came in for lunch. I cut off three longer bolts and screwed them in where the pan bolts go and used those as a guide for the gasket and pan to go up and not touch any dirt. Worked very well with the wifey raising up the pan very slow on the floor jack. :thumb1: My shoulders are bad is why, allowed for a painless accurate install.

 

Need to mention them factory pan bolts are short and only use about half of the threads available. The Goerend bolts use all the threads. Very nice but use a proper torque wrench on the aluminum casing .

Edited by JAG1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Worked very well with the wifey raising up the pan very slow on the floor jack.

Does she have a sister by chance?  I've never met a girl who wanted to be anywhere close to getting her hands dirty...outside of the bedroom anyways. :wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope only brothers. I still had to convince her that the jack came from the motor pool of a princess before she would touch it.

 

My test drive showed a little quicker response in shifting and no leaks. I was careful to tighten down the pan bolts in 3 stages finally up to the 12 ft. lbs. or 144 inch pounds as per Dynamic.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

CDI are great tools for the money.

 

Only time I have issues is when the guys leave them set for months on end they have a memory for sure after. You can adjust them to a certain range but loose full scale.

 

Sometimes we waste more time trying to cal them then they are worth. Have 3 or 4 CDIs that need new spring kits.

 

When we start doing them again in a few weeks will do a separate post on them if I have time.

 

And will deff do those 2 husky ones, they alwasy amaze me........ we do 3 checks at 3 points on the tool, they are very acurate compared some other brands. Who knows could be a fluke.

 

When don't you need adjust bands..... when your OD clutch pack is mostly metals and not too many fibers.....this is my one OD clutch pack...should alternate fiber/metal/repeat......... mine was fried.

 

20190707_202739.jpg.aec13bd8b5f540a3a21ba350b186a21e.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by Timd32
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Bullet said:

Does she have a sister by chance?  I've never met a girl who wanted to be anywhere close to getting her hands dirty...outside of the bedroom anyways. :wink:

Swapped my 6 speec out many years. Had 2 grandsons znd brother help. For some reason we could not get the tranny move the last 1/2" to mate to the motor. We wiggled it, rubbed it, talked nice to it snd cussed it. Out of the blue my wife, all 4'9" of her and her # 4 shoes appears under the and kicks the tranny in the output shaft and bam its mated. :think:

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, dripley said:

Out of the blue my wife, all 4'9" of her and her # 4 shoes appears under the and kicks the tranny in the output shaft and bam its mated. :think:

Lol...isn't that the same technique that she uses on you? :tease:

  • Haha 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Timd32 said:

CDI are great tools for the money.

 

Only time I have issues is when the guys leave them set for months on end they have a memory for sure after. You can adjust them to a certain range but loose full scale.

 

Sometimes we waste more time trying to cal them then they are worth. Have 3 or 4 CDIs that need new spring kits.

 

When we start doing them again in a few weeks will do a separate post on them if I have time.

 

And will deff do those 2 husky ones, they alwasy amaze me........ we do 3 checks at 3 points on the tool, they are very acurate compared some other brands. Who knows could be a fluke.

 

When don't you need adjust bands..... when your OD clutch pack is mostly metals and not too many fibers.....this is my one OD clutch pack...should alternate fiber/metal/repeat......... mine was fried.

 

20190707_202739.jpg.aec13bd8b5f540a3a21ba350b186a21e.jpg

 

 

 

 

I'll be interested in the calibration results on brands. Cool, cause that helps a lot of us.

 

Are those pics from the shop you work at? Also what symptoms did you have and how many miles on it with a worn out overdrive clutch pack?

 

Thanks Timd32

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope thats my garage at home. I have a 96' 12v, little over 200k on those.

 

I pulled out what seemed like handfulls of fiber material, decent chunks on my first attempt to change the fluid, so from there I knew it was just shot.

 

The previous owner said the trans needed work.... basically the truck was max 50mph was a bad 3 speed. There were a few times when it got stuck in 2nd gear. 

 

Which actually was fine for me, since I can drive 20miles to work and never hit 50mph, its all back roads amd smaller 2 lane highways, there is no spot where the posted speed limit is at 50.

 

We still used the 12v for the farm pulling hay wagons from the field to barn, it was still a very useful truck before I pulled the trigger to rebuild. I also have an 18' 2500 gasser which has put the 12v on the back burner, since I have a working truck. Used that for hay this season.

 

I'm pretty close on finishing the rebuild, have all the main sub-assemblies built up. The one backing plate for the OD was pretty heat soaked so had to order that just got that in.

 

20190707_162452.jpg.4d130dd56e6fc7a96e35cb7368e8a3cb.jpg

 

Other self caused / just not enough experience issue I caused...there are 2 sprag roller bearings I thought there was only one had to order those 2 times, the one adapter for my press did not work had to order 2 of those. The kit was supposed to have a sealing ring for one of the Sonnex front accumulator, that was not included, but I tried to dry fit the one they sent, that would up getting stuck in the bore when the smaller ring clipped into the retainer groove, so had to get a new piston....something happened with my pump forget exactly but that had to wait for a 2nd order. Its very hard to buy ALL the snap rings, that took 3 orders. The snap rings take alot of abuse, see post about them breaking, so I wanted to make sure I had all the right ones.

 

So yeah its been a fun process I enjoy the time in the garage, some days are productive others frustrating when you need another part.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man.... that's amazing to me anyway, that you are doing that much yourself. 

 

My 01 has 216k on the clock and so dropping the pan yesterday and seeing how clean with only a little bit of metal sludge on the magnet brought my hopes up. It may have been rebuilt at one time because it had 190k on the clock with a large hitch ball in the bed with air bag suspension when I bought it. I guess that is called a 'Goose Neck' for heavy hauling.

 

I hope IBMobile has the same luck with his trans as he recently pulled the pan and found no excess metal, but his is not locking up on his last trip even using the manual locking switch it won't lock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Losing the OD brake clutch is a pretty common failure, especially in the 47RE. They just don't make enough pressure for that clutch to live a happy life.

 

You replaced ALL of the snap rings?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
On 8/10/2019 at 7:01 AM, Dynamic said:

Band adjustment is arguably the most important maintenance item you can perform on your transmission. Why are you scared to adjust your bands? There are very few things that are simpler than adjusting bands.

Indeed. I have over 60K miles on my tranny since you built it. Changed the fluid & filter every 15K miles like clockwork as well as adjust the bands. I will say though, I like to keep it out of overdrive until I'm over 45 mph because I don't like how it wants to go into OD so soon. Nothing on your end, its just how the 47re behaves. Still waiting on the valve body upgrade, LoL! :whistle2: 

Edited by crf450ish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What about Towing 8000 lb trailer?

With overdrive not engaged the droning noise just drives me nuts.  With od engaged (lower rpm) noise level much  better.  

With od engaged is there excess wear?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Dynamic said:

 

You replaced ALL of the snap rings?

I gave it my best attempt.

 

I ordered every snap ring available on Rock Auto for the 47RE, some were duplicated in that they had a OD kit. So I have quite a few left over, then the master kit had some duplicates to that Rock Auto stuff, then I destroyed one of the seals so I had to reorder another $65 Transgo rebuild kit, so that has some extra stuff in it.

 

There are a few others but here are some.

20190811_141843.jpg.692ef94956f7e411087f0674868b4f56.jpg

 

I think there was one wire ring on the outside of the OD direct clutch housing, needs 2 the kit only had one, it did not appear to have any weight bearing on that surface was just holding the 2 parts together was very thin wire type retainer so I reused that one.

 

The rear forward clutch with large Belleville return spring was broken, that came from Goerend they give you 2 sizes and you send one back. Thats why it looks like a "C"

 

I think it was under $100 for all the extra snap rings, wish they had a master kit for those, but there are a bunch of different types.

 

20190811_141557.jpg.605b098e909b1805a39cd7623cc82ff2.jpg

 

5 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Man.... that's amazing to me anyway, that you are doing that much yourself. 

 

Its alot for sure but I did not need the truck. Did a bunch of research, I have a decent work shop at home, figure why not give it a shot, it sure is NOT the less expensive way to do it. Would have been a ton easier to have one built, but it will be mine when done, good or bad, no intention to sugar coat it if it goes south. So far have not cut corners on the build.

 

Then,,,, I have all the stuff to do my 241LD transfer case, that was also in the cards, but need to get the trans together first. 

 

Time is never on my side...

I have a 2yr old, one on the way end of Oct, run my own business with 3 partners and 15 employees, do a bunch of volunteer stuff for Habitat, don't think I knew how little time I had to take this on. So little bits at a time it will come together.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
41 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

What about Towing 8000 lb trailer?

With overdrive not engaged the droning noise just drives me nuts.  With od engaged (lower rpm) noise level much  better.  

With od engaged is there excess wear?

 

X2...I'm all ears.:popcorn:

Edited by JAG1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh boy...

 

Yeah, you really don't need to replace all those snap rings. The only one that is a "must replace" is the one for the OD direct. Those break all the time. It's also not often that I see a Belleville break like that, but it certainly is possible (obviously).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I get it for sure was over kill to do all those, that OD snapring takes some serious heat for my .215 backing plate to be that blue. For a while I was not finding much wrong as I was tearing it down, till I found that broken Belleville.

 

20190811_183505.jpg.329a8197c1a184f7e44098b16cc67569.jpg

 

I also had the whole OD unit out of sight out of mind for a while while I did the other parts. Thats were all the bad stuff was going on.

 

Made some good progress today. Got most of my main assemblies back in the case, pump back on and torqued down.

 

20190811_183318.jpg.6ace0507c79f54ea6e4e6f0b52201dc0.jpg

 

20190811_183310.jpg.d9e01bcc72164a0339c705e956ef084a.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, you can definitely make a case for replacing the wavy snap ring after an OD brake failure if you're staying with a 5 disc stack back there. The rest of them will put up with quite a bit more than they'll ever see.

 

What band lever are you using in there? Is that a 5.0 48RE lever?

 

Make sure to get your total end play at about .020".

 

What valve body mods do you have planned?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think I have extra plates and fibers in the OD it, as I had one set left over they give you enough for a 48RE, I do have the stepped front clutch with the added plate and fiber, (I'm saying that location wrong, but the one backing plate was modified by Goerend)

 

I think its a 3.8 front band apply lever. I've had it so long forget, bought most of my parts in March of 2018, yeah that ends in an 18.....🤔

 

Just going by the part number and description on their site..

 

Gorend: D73-LSA 3.8 

 

On the end play yeah I have been thinking that one out, they suggest to only mess with 3 specific items if it's off, they just say no end play, will roll with that suggested .020"

 

ATSG Reference #, my commentary..

Part #70, #1 Selective Thrust Washer on the back of the pump. (Mine was maybe a fiber washer)

 

Part #105, #3 Selective Thrust Washer (odd triangle one on the back of the Rear (Forward) clutch.)

 

Part #179, Intermediate Shaft Selective Spacer. (Back of shaft between OD unit and main Transmission)

 

My guess here is the last one would be the only one to change as by this point the other two are going to require some "getting into", also I guess at this point I should have wrote down and measured those others prior of that last one does not work, too late for that, but thats a good idea for a tip for someone else. I measured and matched what was in there for the second one, the one behind the pump might have just reused that one? Can check my pile of parts.

 

Maybe:

"Measure your installed selective thrust washers and write those down, just in case."

 

Unless that might be overkill, since I did the other mesaurements along the way maybe thats all accounted for...

 

I have a Goerend Valve Body. I think there is a paper in the box. Has the better GM kit on there, they tuned it for around a 10k or less pull weight, they had a small list of questions and I thought there was a bench test sheet, but might be confused with the TC test sheet. Again been a while going from memory of a phone call had with them.

 

But yeah Im going to try to get the basic air checks done maybe by Tuesday, I really rely on that ATSG book and Goerend has a nice supplement correcting the issues with that book, then folks like your self who help us common folks out with a wealth of info, it is appreciated for sure..

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 47RE and 48RE (with a few random exceptions) use the same OD brake stack. Some 48's came with 6 discs in the OD brake and single sided discs in the OD direct. Most did not.

 

If that's a Goerend billet 3.8 lever, you're in good shape.

 

I typically end up with a .083" 3-tab thrust washer, and a .193" intermediate shaft sleeve, and then whatever washer you need behind the pump to get your end play where you need it; usually a .084" or a .102". If I need more than that, as is often the case, I use Superior shims between the 3-tab and the input shaft. They make them in in .015" and .025". I don't like to go thicker than .102" behind the pump because it moves the sealing rings on the input shaft and stator support farther out of their bores than I like.

 

I'm glad Dave (Goerend) came out with a supplement to fix some of the misinformation in the ATSG. I have thought of doing that as well, but never had time.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the added info. Turns out my new (few months) caliper does not auto shut off,,,, well it does when the  battery dies..

 

Need a new battery, I usually have a cheap dial caliper but thats at my work shop.

 

Add that to the list the the "tips" list... keep a spare caliper battery... kinda like a DVMM fuse good like finding one of those local...

 

I will measure my old parts as I know I put new ones of the same size and have all my old parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me the best Transmission Parts house for Oregon. I've heard good about Oregon Performance Transmissions and some bad about Cascade Transmission Parts. I would rather to do business over a greasy counter than online ordering garbage. Thank you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Can anyone tell me the best Transmission Parts house for Oregon. I've heard good about Oregon Performance Transmissions and some bad about Cascade Transmission Parts. I would rather to do business over a greasy counter than online ordering garbage. Thank you.

What kind of parts are you trying to order? That would be a determining factor for where you would order it from.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...