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JAG1

47re Trans Service Tips and Tricks

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Posted (edited)

I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec.

 

Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units?

 

Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan?

 

Thanks for any ideas/ tips :thumb1:

Edited by JAG1

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My pan is cant think of the brand of the top of my head. Looks like ats pan.

 

I don't  use a tourqe wrench bolt dont have to be very tight. Not sure I'd used rtv on either side. 

 

I use the rubber gasket that comes with filter. Start all bolts through gasket then lift pan up. So far no leaks and I've had pan off a couple times on the same gasket.

 

Cork gasket is supposed to be better they say. Factory gasket is very good to.

 

The goerend pan looks very good. Shouldn't have issues with leaks unless bolts are over tightened.  Spec is only like 14ft lbs

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Thanks Evan.... simple enough. Georend is so cool they ship the gasket flat with it taped between two layers of cardboard :USflag:

No need to lay it in the sun to get it to go flat and straight before install.

 

I heard some guys are using John Deere HyGuard Tractor fluid with a bit better results, but they don't say if the trans lasted noticeably longer, just shifts/ behaves better. Any thoughts on that?

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Posted (edited)

47re runs well on everything but water.

 

My tranny has a mix of tractor trans atf+4 and dexiii in it.

Ive also ran fordf with good results.

 

I hear guys say that it needs atf+4 because its computer controlled, because it has added friction modifiers. In my opion plus4 is good if you going run 60-80k between service intervals. If your willing to service every 20k any red fluid will work.. I'm not sure but fordf feel crisper than plus4 and so does tractor transmission fluid 

I like tractor transmission fluid its biggest drawback is I cant see it on the dip stick so I've mixed it with red atf. 

 

The 47re is 727 computer controlled with a over drive unit bolted on it. It's not picky. It likes good clean fluid

 

The rubber gaskets that are wadded up work well to. start all bolts through the cover into gasket just a few threads and they hold it perfect to install on the truck.

 

Before I rebuilt my tranny I ran tractor transmission fluid bought me a few years after it started slipping bad. When it finally went clutches still looked good but band was worn completly in two  tranny was done at that point. But could have done just a band and ran it longer. May have stopped slipping to. 

Edited by Evan
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Thanks Evan that is good information right there. I appreciate that on the fluids :thumb1:.

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On 8/2/2019 at 10:55 PM, JAG1 said:

Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket?

No sealant at all. 

 

On 8/2/2019 at 10:55 PM, JAG1 said:

Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units?

Typically the hole is 1/8 NPT. This is common size.

 

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Ppe is what I have. I almost did goerend but decided I wanted a bigger pan.

 

My metal lines are leaking so I pack a case of this I added a quart last night to stay up on the stick.

Need to find the time to do all soft lines.

 

I've had my truck 15 years built the tranny 2 years ago and just did the ppe pan 3 months ago or so.

I mess with the tranny alot the drain plugs a god send. Lol though the deep pan is more a pain to take on and off. I did do a drain plug in the factory pan.

 

Latly I've been worried or thinking the filter might drop off the tranny not sure I like filter being lowerd.  I think I'd notice as soon as it dropped though

 

I'm rambling 

 

20190804_085620.jpg

20190804_085544.jpg

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On 8/2/2019 at 9:55 PM, JAG1 said:

I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec.

 

Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units?

 

Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan?

 

Thanks for any ideas/ tips :thumb1:

I have used a ton of Goerend pans. Top shelf stuff.

 

I always use a fiber gasket like the one that Goerend sends with any aluminum pan, and every build that goes out of here has an aluminum pan on it. Don't even think of using RTV on the pan gasket (or anywhere else on the transmission). Torque all of the pan bolts to spec. I run them at 12 lb/ft. One of the main reasons for using an aluminum pan is to add rigidity to the case as these things have literally zero case structure on the bottom. If you're not properly torquing the pan, that benefit can be called into question. Bear in mind that they will probably loosen up after a few drive cycles as the fiber compresses. Just hit them with a torque wrench one more time after a few days.

 

As mentioned, pretty much every temp sending unit I've ever had my hands on is 1/8" NPT.

 

You'll need to stick with ATF +4 if you have a single disc converter (stock or otherwise), or your converter clutch will chatter as it slips. With a good triple and valve body, you can switch to Dex III with some Lubegard "Black" added to it.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Dynamic said:

Torque all of the pan bolts to spec. I run them at 12 lb/ft.

 

You'll need to stick with ATF +4 if you have a single disc converter (stock or otherwise), or your converter clutch will chatter as it slips. With a good triple and valve body, you can switch to Dex III with some Lubegard "Black" added to it.

I use a Goerend pan too w/paper gasket and no sealants.  I torqued to 15 ft/lbs...cuz I thought that was the spec. 

 

I've never heard of DEX III if you have a triple.  I'm still using ATF+4 on my Goerend triple and valvebody.  What are the benefits of DEX III and black over ATF+4...other than it being cheaper? 

Edited by Bullet
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Good info here as I have been tweaking my 47re. Might have to splurge for a pan too, looks nice. I assume the pan has a bolt for the temp sensor hole if you dont have the sensor yet. I think i had over tightened my bolts on last service..ever so slight weep, keeps the rust off.

 

JAG1 may I ask what service you plan to perform on your trans other than fluid, filter and pan?

 

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If you can track down the factory pan gasket with the two oring seals in it. No sealant, no leaks, and reusable.

@Dynamic have any sales coming up? 

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55 minutes ago, Irie808 said:

Good info here as I have been tweaking my 47re. Might have to splurge for a pan too, looks nice. I assume the pan has a bolt for the temp sensor hole if you dont have the sensor yet. I think i had over tightened my bolts on last service..ever so slight weep, keeps the rust off.

 

JAG1 may I ask what service you plan to perform on your trans other than fluid, filter and pan?

 

I was thinking only a basic fluid and filter change since the trans has no issues at the moment and with the drain plug I could get in there easier anytime in the future.

 

Dynamic thank you for jumping in that was good information.

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Posted (edited)

Dynamic definatly has the experience. However my old tired tranny would slip first on atf+4 would shudder hard if I got on it leaving from a stop. Tractor trans mixed with red fluid help the shudder alot.

Now the tranny doesnt care atf+4 and any red fluid will hold in my eyes  and my experience plus 4 will slip before all otheres.

I only have experience with wore out tired tranny and now the same tranny after being rebuilt with a single disc

So basically no experience really to speak of.

Power driven diesel has they're witches brew fluid I'd like to try but doubt its much different than me mixing red fluid with tractor fluid.

Alot of people like the amzoil but it is not a atf+4 fluid however it does meet Chrysler specs for atf+4 

I'm just rambling 

 

Will not hurt a thing to run what the tranny is speced to run lol  no **** sherlock.

Edited by JAG1

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Posted (edited)

Goes to show you can learn something from everyone :thumb1:

 

The Georend pan was so strongly recommended by W-T that I gave up the thought of the other brand I've had on the 02 for 8 yrs or so.

He was right and I'm glad I listened..... even the way it is packaged you see these guys are tops. The gasket feels real not like the ATP I brought back to the auto parts store, which felt fake by comparison. I've noticed a lot of auto parts stores lowering their level of quality in products yet keep prices up. It pays to find the right people.

 

Wondering... is a big honkin torque wrench, one that goes from about 10 to 160 ft. lbs. from Snap-On going to be accurate enough for 12 ft. lbs.? May be better to get an inch pound wrench.

 

Evan, thank you for the link for an upgrade kit. I probably won't doing that this time around as my trans behaves like it was brought up right.

 

 

Edited by JAG1

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1 minute ago, JAG1 said:

Wondering... is a big honkin torque wrench, one that goes from about 10 to 160 ft. lbs. from Snap-On going to be accurate enough for 12 ft. lbs.? May be better to get an inch pound wrench.

 

No. The bottom end typically is not that accurate and hard to feel the click. Better off getting a 3/8 Torque Wrench with smaller foot pound rating.

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8 hours ago, Evan said:

Dynamic definatly has the experience. However my old tired tranny would slip first on atf+4 would shudder hard if I got on it leaving from a stop. Tractor trans mixed with red fluid help the shudder alot.

If you're shuddering when leaving from a stop, your forward clutch is slipping, and the converter clutch is not in the picture all. The converter clutch is what the ATF+4 is needed for. No type of fluid will fix that a dead forward clutch.

 

You will have a better feeling transmission with Dex III (that's why myself, and many other builders recommend it), but I wouldn't run Dex III with a single disc converter, stock or otherwise.

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Posted (edited)

I have about 40 torque wrenches for my company, all sorts, I was not happy my guys went out and bought 2 husky in-lb torque wrenches, thought they would be junk, those damn things are some of the most accurate when we do our 6mo calibration check. 

 

I would suggest you pick one up can't go wrong with those for the price.

 

We struggle with some of our CDI (snapon industrial) ones when they leave them set for months on end and that damn husky thing works every year go figure.

 

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:

Husky    1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H4DTWA/206743985

 

 

Edited by Timd32

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Timd32 said:

I have about 40 torque wrenches for my company, all sorts, I was not happy my guys went out and bought 2 husky in-lb torque wrenches, thought they would be junk, those damn things are some of the most accurate when we do our 6mo calibration check. 

 

I would suggest you pick one up can't go wrong with those for the price.

 

We struggle with some of our CDI (snapon industrial) ones when they leave them set for months on end and that damn husky thing works every year go figure.

 

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:

Husky    1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H4DTWA/206743985

 

 

Look at the reviews too... almost full 5 stars:thumb1:. I guess I'll have to eat crow and go to Home Depot. Thanks Timd32, 

Edited by JAG1
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On 8/4/2019 at 1:28 PM, Bullet said:

I've never heard of DEX III if you have a triple.

Goerend recommends Dex III and Lubegard "Black" with their stuff as well.

 

The reason for running ATF+4 is because of the slipping, chattering single disc converters. But if you've got a decent multi-disc converter, and some pressure behind it, you can run Dex III, which is cheaper and gives better feeling shifts.

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my truck came with a DTT transmission and separate shift box and exhaust brake. but I have not way to tell what converter it has. The guy I got it from paid $7000 for all the work.

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Posted (edited)

It might be okay to assume triple disc with a 7000 tranny. 

 

I kinda like the 47re now if the need ever arises I'll to a triple disc and shaft. And possibly buy valve body since mine isnt recomended for a triple now.

 

 

Dynamic. 

No shuddering I'm aware on my current single disc  tranny shuddering and slipping was occurring with the tranny before having it rebuilt . Both locked or unlocked 

Edited by Evan

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Update: well its an unusually cool weekend for August and so I have the pan and filter off with it draining all nite. What a mess without a drain plug BTW. I had to get a more expensive inch pounds Torque wrench since a little deeper search revealed some problems with the mid range brands. I ended up getting a CDI made by Snap On. Very nice wrench with close accuracy.

 

Now I'm scared to adjust the bands.... is it something that has to be done even though my trans does perform well?

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Band adjustment is arguably the most important maintenance item you can perform on your transmission. Why are you scared to adjust your bands? There are very few things that are simpler than adjusting bands.

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Posted (edited)

 

Okay.... got the specs and procedure for adjusting the bands. I'm thinking you must hold the torx adjusting screw when tightening the lock nut to the specified ft lbs. So I have to assume you get the lock nut snug with a wrench in order to have access and hold the adjusting screw. Once it is snug you can put the foot pounds wrench/ socket over the lock nut and turn to the correct foot pounds without worry of turning the adjusting screw. Is that correct?

Edited by JAG1

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