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preparing for plowing


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I have a 2001 2500 with roughly 345k, the cummins is well cared for but it requires a few things to address leaks.  I'm going to explain what I'm doing and why and then ask for suggestions about other things to do/service before plowing season.  This truck hasn't plowed in years but it will this year since the gas truck died once and for all (broken frame).

 

  • Hydroboost rebuild, it leaks something terrible and I bought an all new seal kit to fix it.  I also have a pressure line that seeps and is getting replaced.
  • Front crank seal and sleeve, it leaks, it makes a mess while its running so its getting fixed.
  • Turbocharger replacement.  I have a large s364sxe on it now, its too big to plow with, it would just be a restriction.  I'd like some opinions on a S362SXE with smaller injectors
  • Taking out the dap 7x.011 injectors and going down to 7x.009 VCO this truck previously was just a weekend warrior
  • truck does have a quad v2, I do know how to use it.

 

So with that said, I'd like to get it back to a work friendly setup.  I tow with the setup it has now but the quad spoon feeds the fuel with boost so it doesnt smoke too much.  This is not a friendly setup for pushing snow.  The truck already has an overbuilt transmissions, custom made triple disk and a host of cooling upgrades.  It recently got a new manifold as well (cracks). 

 

I'm also looking to replace the front springs, shocks all the way around since its been a decade and 150k miles, truck has the 02 dana 70 srw rear end with discs.  I'm considering 3rd gen track bar upgrade but need to know the best source for the bracket.  I might do the 4th gen steering upgrade but I've heard it bump steers on some trucks, that would not be friendly with weight hanging on the front end.  Everything else on the truck has had basically regular service or is in good shape.  If you have anything to add that might make the season a bit more pain free with an old truck, let me know.

 

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Do you plow big pking lots little lots rds in retirement neighbor hoods? Walmart?

I'd probly tear into my valve body and do plow upgrades. Might consider having the option to lock the tourqe converter in second on long pushes. If your pushing 50ft I doubt youd even see 2nd gear.

 

I honestly haven't pushed with a pickup. I run a case 580 with a 12ft pusher chained to bucket. Pushike mad then remove pusher and run around piling snow. Also have a wing I made for the skidsteer it's over all is 8ft and rolls the snow to the inside.

 

Good luck and whatever you do probly count on building the 47re after the season if you push much. I'd be leaning on running in 4low if I used my truck.

 

I can see the 4th gen steering causing bump steer but only on hard bumps that really cycle the suspension travel. I doubt the plow makes it any worse then with it.

It's the motion up and down that causes bump steer when drag link and track bar arent parrel to eachother.  When suspension cycles the track bar will make the steering drag link move with it. It has to give so it bumps through the . If tra track and drag link are parallel they swing in arc with eachother and cause no bump steer. 

 

A bracket to upgrade track bar will intensify this especially at factory ride height

You could play with mounting drag link over or under the pitman arm to make track and drag as close to parallel as possible.  But this would take reaming pitman arm and using a insert to allow the drag link to mount up or down.

 

Good luck

 

 

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My experience is if you have weight hanging off the front end, rough roads, uneven traction and so forth just make bump steer worse. 

 

To answer your questions:  The transmission is already as stout as money and time can make it, no worries there. 

 

The use will be one large lot followed by a series of smaller lots with highway speed driving between them. Truck won't be carrying a salter, I bought a ford for that lol.  It will however have a full complement of blowers, shovels, salt bins, spreaders, gas, crew etc. 

 

I would NEVER run a truck in 4low.  You just cannot do that, it's a bad idea for a variety of reasons, most of which involves bind and potential energy of the weight of rotating parts behind the things you DONT want to break. 

 

Anyways, I was hoping someone here plows with these trucks and runs a different steering setup.  It's the one thing I have always disliked about my cummins is the terrible steering despite steering boxes and braces.  It eats track bars regularly so I actually NEED to upgrade it.  I was planning to weld in a new mount on the axle to align it correctly with the steering drag link.

 

 

 

 

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  • Staff

Make sure your prepared by anything you can do..... I'm seeing indications that it's going to be one of our hardest winters in the U.S. Maybe the worse ever

Edited by JAG1
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1 hour ago, dave110 said:

What indications are you seeing? The chicken's are growing extra down feathers or what?

Dripleys feathers are turning extremely vibrant colors early this year. :thumb1:

 

On more sincere note; I do think it is going to be a rough ride this winter. We have been seeing September like weather conditions most of August. Very unusual.

Edited by JAG1
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Same down here. Cant sit on the lawn mower more than 10 minutes without being able to not see from the sweat pouring into my eyes. Last winter was soaking wet, dont want that again either.

 

On a more qauasi scientific note, the feathers are getting roasted, hence the color change.

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On 8/15/2019 at 10:46 AM, army_greywolf said:

Im also looking to replace the front springs, shocks all the way around since its been a decade and 150k miles, truck has the 02 dana 70 srw rear end with discs.  I'm considering 3rd gen track bar upgrade but need to know the best source for the bracket.

 

My best advise for the coil springs is to do the same upgraded springs as I did. And don't worry about getting a coil compressor fit. I went through several with no luck. Best thing to do is get a pair of chain come alongs from harbor freight and crank down on them. Took several tries but that worked the best for me.

 

Also when inserting the coil take the foam insert and put that inside the cup first then slide the coil in. 

 

You should take a good look at the hard brake lines and soft lines and make sure that they will take the abuse. 

 

Lastly spray diesel and used motor oil under the truck. It does wonders against the salt corrosion. Much better then washing it every day.

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