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kameronk

2002 24v missing

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hi everybody i have a 2002 cummins and its missing and smoking white at an idle and if you bring the rpms up it starts poping out the exhaust. its just got me a lil bent on what it might be, any advice would help thanks.

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Ugh... :ahhh: Check for error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Check fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm But white smoke is a sign of retarded timing. I'm going to bet money you going to turn up a P0216 error code and also find that your fuel pressure is below 10 PSI most of the time... (Takin' a guess!)

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I'm going to bet money you going to turn up a P0216 error code and also find that your fuel pressure is below 10 PSI most of the time... (Takin' a guess!)

don't you put that curse on me, Ricky Bobby!

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thanks for answering back but i have no codes and fuel pressure is around 15 to 16 psi. i just put a hot vp44 injection pump on bout 2 or 3 weeks a go and wondering if it might be the electronics on it ?

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Still the fact remains the white smoke is caused from retarded timing and the timing is solely controlled by the ECM/VP44. now you say 15-16 typically for pressure... But what is your idle pressure and what is you WOT pressure? These 2 number tell more of a story... Unless you got a damaged injector that is hung open. Pop testing would tell you that...

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mopar man thanks for your promped replys. the idle pressure is 16 to 17 and the wot is 13 to 14, when this thing done this to me i was thinking of an injector to so i had a 3/4 wrench so i had the truck idling and cracked 1,3,5 injector lines because they were easeier and came up with nothing. is that the same as a pop test or what is it and how do you preform it. sorry for the time between posts i work nights and aint got much time to post but try to as much as i can.

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No you must phiscally remove the injectors from the engine take then to a shop to be placed in a jig that will measure the pressure the injector pop open at and then the leak down pressure too. Something like this

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlxxJE-1OaU

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i have talked to a shop around here that does deals with injection and im gonne pull them out this weekend and take them to him monday to get tested, In the mean time i got another set of 80 hp injectors im gonne slide in to it and see what happens. i read your post on cleaning them and will do that before putting them in. thanks for the in put.

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i have talked to a shop around here that does deals with injection and im gonne pull them out this weekend and take them to him monday to get tested

i would want to see it go thru the test. i have heard that the benches for these are $$$, so not every garage has them(vast majority do not). i have been robbed my someone's "test" before(not on a VP44 tho).

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It could also be valve, valve seat, or push rod related. Pop the valve cover and take a peek.

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hey guys thanks for the input! here is an update after this weekend, i pulled out my 150 horse that was in it and stuck in a set of 80 horse and the problem is still there. while i got the valve cover off i took a look at the push rods and rocker arms...everything seemed to be working right. New VP 44 put on a month ago, wondering if this might be the problem, but no codes are coming up??? Any other ideas or input...

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I think a full compression check of the engine may be in order before you replace anything. A bad or washed out cylinder could be a cause. Hopefully my suspicion is wrong.

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ok guys here is an update. i have not ran a commpression check yet havent found any where to get the tool, but here is what i have done, i used my fass and pumped a full tank of fuel and additive out and put in new, rechecked fuel pressure, and checked for codes everything still looks the same, this weekend i will be going to pick up a snap on scanner and a temp gun so i can check each cylinder to see if they are close in tempor if one is cooler or warmer. sorry guys my wording might be a lil confusing but i hope you can desifer what im trying to say.

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I just welded one for shop in Austin and charged 40.00. Dont let the welders get to ya, it can be done for 40

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I agree with LiveOak.. but its looking like the new VP may be bad.

This is what I'm thinking.... Does the truck start okay??:shrug:

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Prowelder yes the truck starts right up like it should. so do share some more on what your thinking im tierd of driving this gasser ford.

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Prowelder yes the truck starts right up like it should. so do share some more on what your thinking im tierd of driving this gasser ford.

Well what I'm kinda thinking is possibly the VP but you might try resetting your APPS and see what happens.:thumbup2:

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prowelder dan you send me the instuctions on how to re set the apps or can some one send them to me? im gonna call the company i got the pump from and see if they can tell me anything or what not.

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prowelder dan you send me the instuctions on how to re set the apps or can some one send them to me? im gonna call the company i got the pump from and see if they can tell me anything or what not.

ECM & APPS Calibration

Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries.

Turn key to ON position. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.

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ECM & APPS Calibration

Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries.

Turn key to ON position. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.

There you go!:thumbup2:

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hey guys thanks for the rest instructions. i am gettin ready to go out and pull the pump off this evening. i talked to the company that i bought it from and they told me to check the key way because it might have got crushed during the installation process or the rotor in side the pumd is out of time so im gonna bit the bullet and pull the dang thing off.

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hey guys sorry i havent been on here for awhile but i have a up date on the missing problem. so i ended up pulling the pump off and sending it back to the company they finaly called me back and there was a sensor out on it and i should have it back wensday and hopfully be back up and running later in the day. thanks for every bodys input and suggestions on what i should check.

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hey guys sorry i havent been on here for awhile but i have a up date on the missing problem. so i ended up pulling the pump off and sending it back to the company they finaly called me back and there was a sensor out on it and i should have it back wensday and hopfully be back up and running later in the day. thanks for every bodys input and suggestions on what i should check.

did they say what sensor?

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ya they did i think it was some thing like a esb or esp not sure right off hand but i will call them and ask them agin and let you no. Sence this problem came up i have been wanting to find a pump and take it apart so i have recently got my hands one one so i think i might get tho tools out and see what these thing are about on the in side has anyone ever had one apart?

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