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I don't know anything about it as it is just something that I read. I also ask how anyone could possibly find out that this is true without always towing heavy under lock up and then tear down the trans due to premature wear. I would still only be a clue.

 

The post went on to say that its wise to use lock up only on slowing not accelerating.

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Before starting any modifications to increase line pressure let's first see if what was discussed on TDR has any merit.   My torque convertor lock up clutch went bad and I sent it to @Dynamic for a tear down and rebuild.  Since I use my lock up switch all the time it would be very informative to hear what he thought of why the lock up clutch failed.

 

8 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

The post went on to say that its wise to use lock up only on slowing not accelerating.

Slowing is when there would be low line pressure and the best chance for slippage.  One would think that if line pressure is low enough for torque convertor clutch slippage then shouldn't the other clutches and bands also experience some degree of slippage? 

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Slowing there is still 90psi more enough to hold under low power.

 

Factor psi is only 50is but I'm not sure pressure would drop that much to idle psi with clutch locked and weight.

I've not had pressure gauge on for more than around the block testing.

Would be cool to keep gauge on to see what it's doing locked with a load pushing it down a grade

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Oh good. Something else research and possibly make. @IBMobile let us know what you find out about your converter please.

 

I still haven't found my pressure gauge so i can get some readings. I think I'm going to start saving for a VB and skip the shift kit. Plans fell through for hauling a boat to Florida next month so I'm really not in a hurry to do anything. Plenty of time to gather info.

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On 9/23/2019 at 7:20 PM, IBMobile said:

Before starting any modifications to increase line pressure let's first see if what was discussed on TDR has any merit.   My torque convertor lock up clutch went bad and I sent it to @Dynamic for a tear down and rebuild.  Since I use my lock up switch all the time it would be very informative to hear what he thought of why the lock up clutch failed.

 

Slowing is when there would be low line pressure and the best chance for slippage.  One would think that if line pressure is low enough for torque convertor clutch slippage then shouldn't the other clutches and bands also experience some degree of slippage? 

I'm still learning what to think about all this.... you know you read a lot of things, but the Mopar Forum helps enormously in formulating solid thinking . Thank you for your patience with this.

Edited by JAG1
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here's my two penn'orth

I learned a lot towing 9k plus with my truck, locked is where it needs to be, but as I see it the whole design is centred around it cannot be locked under all circumstances as the standard convertor is not up to the job so however it is done whether it be PCM/pressures or however there is limitations on a standard trans, it freewheels so that says to me Dodge thought it best to not use lockup on the overrun, it locks to me too late, this I think is Dodge deciding that lockup is not strong enough to get the truck moving from low speeds and even from 35mph which my truck locks in 3rd It is not happy if there is a lot of pedal.

The trans is a 727 sortof which would I'd say be good for the HP, but  it wouldn't be good with the torque direct driven, I'm busting to do a lockup switch and I would just do a switch as I'm the only driver EVER but do I want to trash the torque.... maybe not and I think standard trans and torque the only outcome is trashed.... thing is jekyll and hyde... racing snake locked, tortoise unlocked drives me mental but 5k, plus core, plus shipping to uk, plus import duty, plus vat.... close to 10k to my door

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Have done that many, many, mannnnnnny times on 727, 904 cars in the past. Slam shifts, bad manners, late upshifts, bad downshifts, etc. Not to mention 500+ cubic inches coming into a subdivision at 2am stuck in 1st. I didn't mind but for some reason ALL my neighbors were happy when i moved????? Oh well didn't like them either. I'm thinking about trying a pull cable to max out TV lever for use with lock up switch. I'd like to do a solenoid but damn they're pricey for a continuous duty. Next couple weeks are hectic but might get some time to play with it in Oct. I'll post what i do with pics.

And for my stupidity after some research i see that there are many companies selling something to jack up line pressure with an exhaust brake. I'm not paying someone to do something i can do myself.

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Try setting TV at halfway.

 

Mine is probly a out half way were I have TV stop set.

 

I get a 1-2 quick firm shift so.etimes depending on throttle truck will lurche forward in the shift. Not sure I like that or not

 

From a stop throttle input will raise the nose of the truck. 

 

3rd will slamb under only very light throttle .I drive around it.

 

I'm running as much pressure at idle as the factory 47re does at wot.

 

A pull cable would be kinda cool or maybe a adjustable cable like a water truck would have to set pto rpm. max it or set it for off idle characteristics 

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I'm going to look into what i can do with a cable. It makes sense to me to have TV maxed out when in forced lockup. I had wondered about that before. Most of my trans experience comes from full manual or trans brake apps in hot rods/drag cars. Alto red eagle, koleen steels, turbo action full manual or tranzact brake, Lucas tranny slime, and hammer down. Well, besides stock ford crown vic, taurus, and exploder crap (25 year fleet mechanic). I want to try TV cable set at stock specs with my ?" slack adjuster "? spring set up , and a manual,  forced max TV pressure for commanded lockup. Worst thing that can happen is @Dynamic gets a whole bunch of my money before I'm ready to part with it. Can someone please tell me what should my max line pressure with a stock VB and converter be set at? Are there any separator plate mods i need to do? Idle TV at rest and 1500-2000 rpm TV at max????? Cause in my white trash more is mostly better mind im thinking 50% more factory psi cant hurt too much right? 

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May go into limp mode over 100 105psi at wot. But it may not too.

 

Factory spec is 55ish at idle 90-100 wot

 

Can install resistor so sensor doesnt see more than what I wants.

 

More psi is better. You could then hold a motor with powe over 235hp

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/23/2019 at 7:20 PM, IBMobile said:

Before starting any modifications to increase line pressure let's first see if what was discussed on TDR has any merit.   My torque convertor lock up clutch went bad and I sent it to @Dynamic for a tear down and rebuild.  Since I use my lock up switch all the time it would be very informative to hear what he thought of why the lock up clutch failed.

 

Slowing is when there would be low line pressure and the best chance for slippage.  One would think that if line pressure is low enough for torque convertor clutch slippage then shouldn't the other clutches and bands also experience some degree of slippage? 

 

Any updates to your new trans...you did lots of work before sending it to Dynamic? 

 

Any info???  as to "Before starting any modifications to increase line pressure let's first see if what was discussed on TDR has any merit".

 

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Been looking around for some kind of solenoid to pull the TV lever back when using the lock up switch. May try this. Make a bracket to attach it to pan bolts maybe, and have a small cable to hook it up to the lever that way it won't interfere with the movement of the lever when its not needed. It could be powered up when i hit the lockup switch with a relay really easy.

Screenshot_2019-10-25-17-32-03.png

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On 10/25/2019 at 9:07 AM, 015point9 said:

Any updates to your new trans..

Here's the build sheet and I upgraded the torque convertor to a Goerend 15SS

Scan_20191026.jpg.62bed6c4696fbf09648c176b7c7f853e.jpg

Air temp 91°F  Transmission fluid temp 165°-190°F

Line pressure, transmission in drive :  no throttle  stopped   85 PSI       

                                                          light throttle  2ed gear 105 PSI

                                                          light throttle  3ed gear  110 PSI

                                                          light throttle  4th gear   120 PSI @ 2200 RPM

                                                          W/O throttle  1-2 shift   180 PSI @ 2800 RPM

                                                          W/O throttle  2-3 shift   175 PSI @ 3100 RPM 

                                                          W/O throttle  3-4 shift   150 PSI  

                                                          W/O throttle  4-3 shift  150 PSI  

                                                          100% throttle 4th gear TCC locked @ 70 MPH 160 PSI

                                                          0% throttle 3ed or 4th gear TCC locked down hill slowing 100PSI

                                                          reverse gear stall test 330 PSI

This transmission is putting power down that was wasted with a stock build.  I now have the power to the tires to brake them loose or tow my 5er with the boat behind it up an 8 mile 6% grade at 65 MPH with throttle to spare. 

 

Thanks Jon.

 

 

                                                           

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Looks great and your trans actually made it both ways without getting lost in transit somewhere.  

I know you did alot of work on it before Jon worked his magic.  Were you able to find out what was giving you all the problems? Or just time for rebuild?  

I'm jellious...I'm  starting year 3, trying to get over to dynamic's shop to get mine done.  

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