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I'm a little cautious on electrics with my truck as reading the 2nd gen pages it all looks as reliable as a chocolate fireguard so I need to wire the truck for the 5er

Way to do it here is a Euro 13 pin socket which has trailer lighting and power, I will be using a split charge relay and looking at a kit that senses when engine is running to open the contacts to charge the trailer battery, I think I'm going to take that feed off of the 195amp resettable alternator breaker I fitted to the truck, I have found a 40 amp auto resettable heat switch for the trailer supply, right now I think I'm only bothered about charging the trailer battery for the break away brakes and wouldn't have anything like fridges running, it is a piss ant dodge ram so I'd want to be easy on the electrical system...... ?????? any other thoughts

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What is the amp draw on the system when just recharging the batteries or are you building this for an add on latter?   40 amps seems a bit high for just recharging the batteries and need 8 AGW for that load size. .

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21 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

What is the amp draw on the system when just recharging the batteries or are you building this for an add on latter?   40 amps seems a bit high for just recharging the batteries and need 8 AGW for that load size. .

I haven't collected the 5er yet so no idea of amp draw yet.

The place I got the 5er from said they use this 40amp switch from Pollack on every split charge they do. That doesn't mean it's any good though.

How do you guys do it ? The 13 pin socket has 7 for trailer lights, 5 for trailer power and earths which is 1 permanent 12v. for battery charging on a volt sensing relay which drops out when engine off. 1 ignition switched for fridge in a euro trailer ( I doubt I would use this as American fridge freezer would take a lot more power than euro stuff) 2 earths and a feed to turn off tow vehicle fog lights when connected to trailer. And 1 for trailer brakes.

Lights are easy. Batt charging is easy but what about the other switched fridge feed, do you guys power the fridge or not when travelling ?? 

Edited by wil440

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Here we do it with a 7 pin plug, that’s all I use, here’s a pic of typical 7 pin, 

981C97EA-EABB-461B-9834-4D0A2BFCAECB.png

text.txt

As far as the fridge, No, they are powered by propane or shore power (120v) which ever you have available, The only 12v power you may need is to trigger the gas igniter but generally they are not powered while in transit. 

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I'm fitting a 13 pin which is no problem.

13 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

Here we do it with a 7 pin plug, that’s all I use, here’s a pic of typical 7 pin, 

981C97EA-EABB-461B-9834-4D0A2BFCAECB.png

text.txt 116 B · 0 downloads

As far as the fridge, No, they are powered by propane or shore power (120v) which ever you have available, The only 12v power you may need is to trigger the gas igniter but generally they are not powered while in transit. 

This has answered my question, nothing on your pin 4 but aux battery charging, here on the euro caravans the fridge is powered by 12v and has a ignition switched feed in a 13 pin socket

 

10 hours ago, IBMobile said:

So, does your trailer has the euro 13 pin plug and you need to wire the truck or is it the other way around?   Can you use an adptor plug?

https://www.towingandtrailers.com/products/trailer-parts/trailer-electrics/13-pin-7-pin-trailer-converters/ 

I already have a uk 7 pin so I'm going to use a junction box to add in the first 7 on a 13 pin socket then the aux battery charging and grounds, I just wasn't sure on the fridge   

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