Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Boost readings off OBDLink


Recommended Posts

On 11/8/2019 at 9:50 AM, Me78569 said:

you could troubleshoot the calculation in the app to make it right.  

 

I found what it is for a 98-00 trucks, but I didn't have a 01-02 to test the calc with. 

 

 

now how do you change calculations within the app? 

 

Also I'm gathering the parts to do a BHAF install. Coming from powerstrokes its pretty standard to use a piece of 4" pipe as a coupler and then guys install the filter minder in the that section of pipe. I see on dodges most guys drill a hole in the end of the filter. Would one route be safer than the other or just 2 ways to skin the same cat?

 

651929d1507054204-basic-mods-20170916_150110.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Remington92 said:

Coming from powerstrokes its pretty standard to use a piece of 4" pipe as a coupler and then guys install the filter minder in the that section of pipe. I see on dodges most guys drill a hole in the end of the filter. Would one route be safer than the other or just 2 ways to skin the same cat?

 

If something broke off of the end of the filter minder, then it might be safer to have the filter minder located at the end of the air filter as it would have less of a chance for a piece to be drawn into the intake tube.  

 

 Also, you will probably have a noticeable pressure drop with the filter minder located in the tube as opposed to being located at the end of the air filter.  As the air flow accelerates in the tube, the pressure will fall, even with a clean air filter.  My '02 Dodge has a 3" pipe connected to the BHAF with an in-cab mounted analog air filter restriction gauge sensing from the 3" pipe connection at the air filter.   I see 10" of water at 2200 rpm and 27 psi boost with a new air filter  (When the gauge was located at the end of the filter housing, the needle barely moved.)  If and when I see 20" of water under the same conditions, I will replace the air filter.

 

- John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can pressure thru the little hose that opens it with compressed air. I have mine a few times over the years. Should work whether you use the hose or pressurise the whole system. Fresh air and not exhaust gas pressure operates the waste gate.

 

Sounds like yours is rusted shut. Could be the actuator ormthe pivot point in the exhaust housing. You could try grabbing the shaft on the actuator and see if you can move it. If it ,ovesmwork it back forth and you ,ight be able free it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, dripley said:

You can pressure thru the little hose that opens it with compressed air. I have mine a few times over the years. Should work whether you use the hose or pressurise the whole system. Fresh air and not exhaust gas pressure operates the waste gate.

 

Sounds like yours is rusted shut. Could be the actuator ormthe pivot point in the exhaust housing. You could try grabbing the shaft on the actuator and see if you can move it. If it ,ovesmwork it back forth and you ,ight be able free it up.

Best way to get at it to break it loose would be removing the 2 bolts on waste gate or the eclip? 

Edited by Remington92
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, kzimmer said:

 

Not entirely true. Exhaust drive pressure definitely aids in opening the wastegate.

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something.

1 hour ago, Remington92 said:

Best way to get at it to break it loose would be removing the 2 bolts on waste gate or the eclip? 

The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something.

The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled. 

I went out and put a set of small vice grips on the actuator rod and couldn’t get it to budge. Guess I better start hosing everything down with penetrating oil and prep to pull the turbo 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, dripley said:

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something.

The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled. 

Exhaust flow drives the exhaust side which compresses air on the intake side, intake air is piped to the wastegate actuator which dumps intake pressure to the exhaust side after the impellor when intake pressure gets over a set point, so exhaust only produces the power to drive the shaft it plays no part in the wastegated psi of the intake

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...