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Grid heater bypass warning

Gregturley
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Gregturley

Gregturley

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A couple of weeks ago i did @IBMobile grid heater bypass. Everything worked great with no issues. This morning when i went to leave for work i turned on the grids. Fired up the truck, everything normal. Turned off the toggle switch for the grid heaters while the grids were powered up. Started driving and noticed my digital volt gauge was dark. Didn't think too much of it. It was cheap and figured it just died. Shut the truck down at work and realized my turbo timer was also not working. Checked everything and both volt gauge and turbo timer are fried. Took a little to put it together but i believe a current spike from the SS-581 solenoid destroyed them. I did some research and Standard says "do not use on vehicles with a computer. Damage to the EEC WILL occur. Cars with a computer require a solenoid with suppression diodes." I looked through Standards online catalog and found SS-598. It is rated at 300 amps and used on later model Fords and Mopars that have computers. Nothing in the literature about not using on computer cars. 

 If anyone has a BD Diesel Cool Down timer 2 for sale cheap let me know.

Edited by Gregturley
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dave110

dave110

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I don't have IBM's switch. Just a toggle that lets me control the factory relays. I never turn them off while they are powered. I always let the ECM turn them off and then I switch them off before they come back on. Might just be me being anal but I don't like to switch on/off under power.

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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Thank you for pointing out a possible problem with the SS-581 solenoids.  When I was researching the solenoid I found that the later Fords used the EEC to trigger the solenoid and needed the diode where the early Fords that used the SS-581 had direct current from the ignition switch.   If the SS-581 solenoid has a dedicated switching circuit, from battery to fuse to switch to solenoid, then if there is a spike it can not effect anything.  

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Gregturley

Gregturley

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@dave110 @IBMobile  I was not paying attention when i turned off the grid switch. I didn't mean to turn it off under load. I have the switch wired to accessory power using a power buss that my volt gauge and turbo timer also share, that way i can't leave it on and kill the batteries. I never thought to check if the solenoid was diode suppressed. Just want people to be aware of it before someone fries something expensive. I lost a used $40 turbo timer and a $7 Amazon volt gauge so it doesn't hurt too bad. I like the way IBMobile came up with to control the grids but I'll be changing the solenoid before i use it again.

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Gregturley

Gregturley

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@Mopar1973Man at least the damage was minor. Got the new solenoid on today at lunch and had a new volt gauge waiting on me when i got home. Time to start watching ebay for another Cool Down Timer. @IBMobileis correct. Use his solenoid the way he had it wired and you shouldn't ever have a problem. Just don't wire it up like i did! The relay i used is a NAPA Echlin ST404. Standard is   SS-598. Starter relay for 03 Ford  F-150.

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015point9

015point9

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2 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@Mopar1973Man at least the damage was minor. Got the new solenoid on today at lunch and had a new volt gauge waiting on me when i got home. Time to start watching ebay for another Cool Down Timer. @IBMobileis correct. Use his solenoid the way he had it wired and you shouldn't ever have a problem. Just don't wire it up like i did! The relay i used is a NAPA Echlin ST404. Standard is   SS-598. Starter relay for 03 Ford  F-150.

 

So article does NOT need editing and follow article exactly and no worries.  

Correct???

 

 

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Gregturley

Gregturley

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@015point9 Correct. If you go straight from the battery, fuse, switch, solenoid you'll be fine. NOTHING else electronic on the circuit. 

 My issue was i ran off a key on wire that i had a other electronic things hooked in to and the current spike from the solenoid had a direct path to the other components. If i had used a solenoid with suppression diodes that should have protected them.

My post was only to inform someone like me that wanted the grid bypass switch to work in the key on position about the possibility for damage from the solenoid. I know how i am. Sooner or later i would have left that switch on and killed my batteries.

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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58 minutes ago, Gregturley said:

My post was only to inform someone like me that wanted the grid bypass switch to work in the key on position about the possibility for damage from the solenoid.

It's great that you posted your experience and are informing others of the danger.  A year from now this thread will be 5 pages or more from the front and I don't think to many people will see the warning so I took your advice and edited the article changing the SS-581 to the SS-598 and adding a note about the SS-581.   Thank you once again for sharing. 

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Gregturley

Gregturley

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@015point9 you're right. I've seen posts on other forums go completely sideways because a post like mine was not taken well. After being here for about a year i didn't think that would happen. I was in no way trying to put down the @IBMobile article especially since i did not do it exactly the way he did. 

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JAG1

JAG1

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4 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@015point9 you're right. I've seen posts on other forums go completely sideways because a post like mine was not taken well. After being here for about a year i didn't think that would happen. I was in no way trying to put down the @IBMobile article especially since i did not do it exactly the way he did. 

Yes you are correct, especially since they allow trouble makin' trolls like me on the board.

Edited by JAG1
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JAG1

JAG1

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2 hours ago, dave110 said:

You had to post another picture of Pellosi didn't you? :lol:

Thanks you guys, Nancy is my sister...... that's what she looks like with the slightest hint of impeachment.

Edited by JAG1
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