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Not sure if I agree with the diesel 911 testing, cause doesn’t it go in the tank AFTER the fuel is gelled? But other than that, seems like a solid testing effort. 
 

 

 

i don’t know the guy, but wanted to share. 

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@Towrigdually this is unrelated, but I noticed in your signature that you have lockers in the front and rear. I'm interested in what you found to fit the D60 front diff. Can you share some part numbers and details?

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You need to do research on your local fuels and when the winterized fuel starts and when it ends. Then find out with the cloud point is and the pour point. This will get you away from worrying about anti-gel products. To this day I've never used any anti-gel products and never gelled up yet. Even with winter temps as low as -40*F. Make sure you stick to the quality fuels during the winter time. Avoid biofuels if possible. 

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I wonder if being from Minnesota makes a difference, I get a fair amount of fuel knock when running #2 or any non white bottle fuel in my truck in then the Minnesota cold. 148k on the original injectors could be part of it. Oct 30 means 20 deg or colder start ups, and when-it drops to bellow -0 deg  its loud. The Truck needs a plug in and good working grid heater. (otherwise it complains.) It will still start but it makes me nervous to hear it run that cold.

I could be under the  placebo effect of the fuel additive, but I hear it calm down when at least putting in a little "anti hell"

Edited by Scottyv

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3 hours ago, kzimmer said:

@Towrigdually this is unrelated, but I noticed in your signature that you have lockers in the front and rear. I'm interested in what you found to fit the D60 front diff. Can you share some part numbers and details?


rear has a traditional Detroit locker, took some shim work but fits and operates normally. Reason for shim is it’s for 4.10 and up and I have 3.55 still. Had to take the shins from both sides and place them to one, the right I think? 

front has a power trax lock-right, nothing special. Kind of a pain in the street when turning, especially in 4x4 but great when going in a straight line. debating on putting lock out hubs on the front to combat this. Cause I don’t wanna deal with and air or electric locker from ARB due to I want simplicity in a locker. 
 

im not sure of the part numbers but I can look for them when I get home.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You need to do research on your local fuels and when the winterized fuel starts and when it ends. Then find out with the cloud point is and the pour point. This will get you away from worrying about anti-gel products. To this day I've never used any anti-gel products and never gelled up yet. Even with winter temps as low as -40*F. Make sure you stick to the quality fuels during the winter time. Avoid biofuels if possible. 


I’m gunna stop by later and hopefully find out, it’s a shell that’s always getting new fuel since it’s by the highway and a farming community so. Hopefully it’s good stuff. 

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2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

MN... IIRC is 5% bio fuel state. Biodiesel is high in Vet and and requires timing to backed down or retarded slightly to reduce the ignition knock.

Most around here state up to 20% and not less then 5%

Wow, that explains a lot of my engine loudness.

[PDF]Minnesota B20 Handling Guide
https://www.mda.state.mn.us
Beginning May 1, 2018, Minnesota law requires that diesel fuel sold in Minnesota contain 20 percent biodiesel (B20) during warmer months, reverting back to five percent for the colder months. Bio-diesel is a clean-burning alternative fuel made from domestic, renewable sources

 

Ahhh I see,  its  5% in winter. So is the Bio fuel more prone to gelling?

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Early this year we had two days of a -29F wakeup for me.  Both times every truck and every piece of equipment was gelled.  This was using costco top tier diesel who we found the source to be the tank farm in North Milwaukee.  it does not get that cold here often but diesel 911 didn't work at all.  Stanadyne did and so did simply staying home lol.  I no longer use diesel 911 because it is a known factor in cp4 failures as well (I have 6.7 powerstrokes as well has older 24Vs).

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