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So in building my truck (getting to building firewall and floor) I'm interested in how much room is needed for the shifter tower (and TC shifter) and gap between the trans and tunnel?  Should I place the tunnel flush with the trans as it sits w/o the shifter tower bolted on/ just above the TC shifter bracket top?  

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On 11/27/2019 at 10:21 AM, PilotHouse2500 said:

ok cool thanks, kinda figured the part that bolts on for the shifter is above the tunnel.

 

Correct the shift tower should be slightly above the floor line. Make sure that the shift tower can rock left to right enough that it doesn't bang the floor metal. Forward to rear space of the floor hole is only for the install and removal of the transmission. 

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one more question...sure JUST one!  Should I be able to shift the TC without anything hooked up?  I was thinking it would be similar to the trans where you can dink around with it w/o any power to it or anything.  If I have the main selector shifter at "N", will the little lever on the TC be straight up vertical? It what the manual sorta shows, but not too clearly.   Thanks!

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ok, but can I put the TC into 2L, 4L or 4H w/o the engine on?  Right now I have no driveshaft on, clutch installed or a or running engine to dink around with.  Does the TC need a signal of any sort be it vacuum or electronic?

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6 hours ago, PilotHouse2500 said:

ok, but can I put the TC into 2L, 4L or 4H w/o the engine on?  Right now I have no driveshaft on, clutch installed or a or running engine to dink around with.  Does the TC need a signal of any sort be it vacuum or electronic?

You can shift the manual transfer case into either selection with the engine off and it will immediately go into whatever you selected.  The vacuum and/or electrics that you mentioned are for the electric shifting transfer case.  None of that stuff on a manual shifting t-case. 

 

Every time I remove my front driveshaft I do it with the engine off and have someone sit in the cab and shift the t-case from N to 2H over and over so I can spin the t-case yoke to access and break all the bolts loose.

Edited by Bullet

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ok, what I thought.....next question?  How hard should it be to shift it?  I had the TC gone thru by a local shop and they gave it a thumbs up prior to putting this all together.  It seems like I'm missing something...don't want to bend/break anything!

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The manual t-case trucks aren't made for women so it sometimes can take a little muscle to move it...especially if it hasn't been shifted in a while.  They came out with the push button t-cases for women.

 

If you are afraid of bending something with constant pressure on the shifter then give it a few easy forward blows towards N with the palm of your hand until you get some movement and then it should move more freely.  But it still will require a little muscle to move it. 

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Take the linkage back out (or just loosen it), and use a large adjustable wrench to manipulate the arm on the TC.  (open it to the flats on the side.  Or use an open end if you have one the right size)

 

This way you can make sure the detents are hitting in the right spots and check when you are in high low and neutral.  The adjustable gives you a nice amount of leverage

 

And agreed mine likes for me to be rolling a bit to shift the easiest.

 

Hag

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I agree with @Haggaron removing the linkage and figuring out where you are at in the range by hand. 

 

I'm absolutely stunned and jealous at how clean all that is in the pic.  

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ok, I'll try that this weekend when I have time.  Right now the shifter is free sliding on the pivot linkage (I don't want to take anything apart I don't have to, those grommets SUCKED!).

 

It's clean now because it's new...give 50k miles and ask me again!  :ahhh:

 

 

 

Edited by PilotHouse2500
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If the grommets are a PITA, just loosen the adjuster and let the rod slide there.  You will still be able to move the TC linkage with a wrench to ensure Neutral.  Just make sure you are not fighting the adjustment.

 

HTH
Hag

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