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Had some good luck in the last 3 weeks and I suddenly have money for a Quad and I have a few questions.

   I have a fuel pressure gauge in the truck already so is there any real reason to get the fuel pressure sender for the Quad? 

  I have RV275 injectors and a stock HY35 with a spring on the waste gate and make about 28 psi max.

  Trans has a stock rebuild on it done about 25,000 miles ago.

  I'm not looking to make 500 hp or anything I just want 275-300 hp. 

  The most important thing right now is fuel mileage. I'm getting 12.5-12.75 right now.

  Is there a tune on here that anyone would recommend for my combo?

  Is there anything I need to do before installing the Quad?

  Can I just put the Quad in without hooking it up to a computer or does that have to be done before use?

  I do not plan on the wire tap at this time. If i do it in the future i will use a Stealth Plate.

  Thanks for any help and please feel free to give me any advice that may be helpful in getting this thing up and running.

  

Edited by Gregturley

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Congrats on getting a Quad.  Best thing I ever did for my truck yet!

 

I didn't get a fuel pressure module with mine as I already had a fuel pressure gauge on the A-pillar.  I didn't have to hook mine up to the computer either.  The Quad module was already up to date.  Are you getting the bluetooth or WiFi module with it to run it with your phone?  You'll load the tunes onto your phone and then when the quad starts and the phone connects it'll load the currently selected tune.  I use the "Daily Stock Injector with Meat".  I am on stock injectors though.  There is the tune builder that you can use to make a tune for what your set up is if you can't find one that matches your setup.

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@hdpwipmonkey I'll be getting the Iquad w/bt and using an Android tablet or old phone. I'm not really sure if I'll use the Quad for gauges or not, I'm pretty happy with my Autometer gauge set up, but i wasn't sure if the tune builder had to be used on a computer or if it could be done on a phone or tablet. I did download the Quad app to my phone but i haven't had much time to go through it and really learn much.

 I'll probably order it from DAP Monday and want to make sure i get everything at once. 

  All I need to do is get a Quad with V2 tune loaded on it and I should be good to go correct?

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The tune builder on the website here is for on a computer.  You can build a tune using the app on your phone though.  I just download what I want off the site here or use the tune builder on my PC then email it to myself to load it on my phone.  

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@hdpwipmonkey where do i find the tune builder on this site?

Also, is there any real advantage to wire tap if I'm not running big injectors or looking to make big power right now? The RV275 are only 40 hp over stock so I'd call them very mild. Sooner or later I'll get some 7x.010's but i dont see doing that for a year or 2.

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You can find the tune builder here:

 

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/quadzilla-adrenaline-v2-tune-builder-for-pc-r532/

 

No reason to wire tap if you aren't going to use it but you could always do the wire tap and just not set the tune to use it but it'll be there in case you need it.  If you leave it on level 3 it will only use timing and canbus fueling.  It will only use wiretap on level 4 or higher and thats on any tune you load.

 

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Thanks for the info. I have lots to learn so I'm sure ill be asking more questions as i stumble my way through this. 

 I guess I'll go ahead and order the Stealth Cover when i get the Quad since its all on sale.

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Just now, Gregturley said:

Thanks for the info. I have lots to learn so I'm sure ill be asking more questions as i stumble my way through this. 

 I guess I'll go ahead and order the Stealth Cover when i get the Quad since its all on sale.

 

I'm still learning the Quad too... 

 

That was going to be my next suggestion was to get the stealth cover.  Takes the guess work out of wire tapping.  

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The toughest thing to handle is the timing. That depends partial on weather and fuel type (winterized or summer). Quadzilla was design more so with performance in mind but with some careful thought and data logging you can bend the Quadzilla to be a great economy tuner. The tips I can suggest is find the maximum timing for 2000, 2500, and 3000 bands. Max timing is the most you can give without bucking or excessive oil temperature. Then the 1500 band you want to be slightly retarded. This will give better light to light launching without excessive smoke and get the turbo spooled. 

 

Just remember the colder the air the tougher to get the fuel to vaporize and go bang. This why 190*F thermostat is more welcomed in the winter time giving as much heat as possible to the cylinder walls, head and intake.

 

Fuel table wise is pretty straight forward. As much fuel as the turbo can burn without smoke or excessive smoke. I typically build for slight haze on WOT operation. 

 

Max load timing offset - that is most based on the amount of load your going to carry or trailer towing. I find most of the time I can run like 1* for empty truck without much bucking or timing issues. When I'm loaded with cargo or weight in the truck then 2* is a good number. Then Hauling trailers 3* is better. What you'll find is if this number is too low while hauling heavy on grades you'll find the EGT's higher, possible bucking, and oil temp is excessively high.  Since higher number like 3* will retard 3* for just coming out of cruise to loaded timing allowing the truck to build boost and make power easier. 

 

Engine oil temperature should ALWAYS be less than the coolant temperature with empty truck. Typically its about -10*F cooler in the summer and about -20*F cooler in the winter time. The only time it may rise above coolant temperature is towing long grade and pushing EGT's high for long periods. How am I getting this value? Simple use the transmission sensor provided in the oil filter test port. Excessive oil temp basically points out the timing has too much flame on the cylinder walls and heating the coolant jacket too much causing the oil cooler to operate at a higher temperature, Typically when you retard back enough to get below again you'll see a drop in engine load or the amount of fuel require to travel the same road.

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You guys on stock trucks running the wire tap what kinda empty and towing egt's are you seeing. 

Can you sustain a heavy pull on the throttle at 2000rpm without peddling off egts.

 

The reason I ask is I'm starting to get the impression some are seeing higher egt than they may be admitting to. And may be peddling off temps while towing.

Some dont tow making temps a non issue. 

 

I recently shut my programmer(smarty) off and am running 7x009 injectors with a 62mm turbo.

 

I'm seeing a drastic reduction in egt(compared to stock turbo)my temps do not climb over 1200deg towing 10k with my foot on the floor. Seeing Higher pressures then I've ever seen 42ish sustained. Truck builds boost right now and accelerates so hard.  Makes it hard not play with the mustang's rumbling next me at stop lights even though I know theyl spank me.

 

I to want a quad someday but am more than pleased with 7x009 injectors and 62mm turbo. I also have plenty of room to grow to 150 injectors and add more wire tapped fuel later. 

 

For me I've always felt getting the mechanical side of things done first was the way to go. Many complain of smoke and egts but many are on stock turbos.many dont tow and dont need a turbo and I'll admit Ive been on 100horse injectors for years with stock turbo. But for years I've been peddling off temps on long grades with only minimal loads like 2 horses in alittle trailer.  With 15k I was watching temps close and often peddling off temps on flat ground. But it did work and for years it did.

It's looking like for me it was the right call to invest in turbo before quad. The truck now makes tons of driveable power with no fear of running temps to hot or relying on quad defueiling to keep temps in check.  

My driving style is light on the throttle my truck gets pretty decent fuel mileage though I've been unable to get away from 17-19mpg numbers that's probly due to truck being heavy and towing some most every tank.

I'll admit under light throttle I do haze some smoke and also notice alittle more  as the 47re grabs each gear.

The truck will also roll black when I get after it diving into traff. But its pulling so freaking hard and even sometimes brakes the tires loose.

 

I just have to wonder sometimes what works for otheres may not work for me.

I wanted a quad pretty bad but could never make myself pull the trigger I later did find a smarty s03 for 200 bucks. It's no quad but has the ability to tune down low off idle power wich is where I like to have power I dont need to run my truck passed 2200rpm.

Though I have the smarty shut off now because I had to sacrafise low end power for tranny longevity. Towing under light throttle the tranny slipped so I just had to get rid of the fuel down low wich as benifit bumps trans pressure.

The smarty did curb my want for a programmer until finally the hy35 started to leak pretty good and had shaft play the turbo upgrad was needed and wanted.

It literally has turned this truck into a driveable towing rig that I could be confident other drivers wouldnt melt it down. Before it was driveable and fun ran good but i could not allow my self to trust anyone else to tow with it.

 

Kinda feel my experience's may match otheres pretty closely.  

 

It's just working for me.

 

 

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I spend too much of my day at work repairing wiring thats been tapped into-From scotch-locks which I hate to posi-taps that failed-to mess with that kind of thing.  I don't like cutting into factory wiring if i don't have to. Stealth plate looks like a much better option. 

 I already have a trans temp gauge and was planning to use the sender from Quad for oil temp. Good info on tuning with the oil temp @Mopar1973Man.

 What should timing stay under with stock head bolts?

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Is there a tune on here that anyone would recommend for me to start out with? Right now I'm just driving it daily empty not hauling/towing.

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14 hours ago, Gregturley said:

What should timing stay under with stock head bolts?

Default tune is basically a +3.0 step between bands... 15, 18, 21, 23... Like my tune is +4.5 step between bands starting at 14.0.

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Ok. Called Quadzilla talked to Marco (i think). Don't know what i was doing wrong but got it connected. Starts and runs, turbo timer works, gauges work. Now to start tuning.

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Anyone using a Kindle Fire tablet with the Quad? My wife has one sitting here not being used that i can swipe. If so how did you get the Quadzilla app installed on it?

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Biggest problem making sure you have a tablet or device that is up to date OS. Like myself I've got my old Azpen Tablet but out of the box it was only Android 4.0 which is too old to use. 

 

As for timing I'm working at building a optimal tune for winter yet and getting close to another 20+ MPG even in 0*F to 30*F weather. 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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@Mopar1973Man thats great. Got a good one for stock turbo hy35 and RV275s? Right now i have left it on default tune level 2.

Going to run 1 tank at that setting and see what it does for mpg. I've got a lot to learn.

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1 minute ago, Gregturley said:

Right now i have left it on default tune level 2.

Remember Level 2 is just the defuel curve to the 100% line. No added fuel above stock. 

 

2 minutes ago, Gregturley said:

Got a good one for stock turbo hy35 and RV275s?

My problem is getting the timing right for your fuel. It's not the cold air to worry about but the cetane of your local fuel. Start with the 14, 17, 20, 23 and work that and then track you MPG on Simply Auto. This way you can make small adjustments advanced or retard and see the effects. Fuel table not really an issue as long as there no excessive smoke.

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I have a tune saved from here that said milage for stock truck but haven't had much time to mess with it yet. Been reading up on the tuning settings when i have time.

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