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I love mine, got it from rockauto the Mopar upgraded one for 4th gen. I wouldn't have it any other way. Not even sure what the reasoning was for that y style in the first place. Solid bar that connects two front tires makes more sense to me.

 

I think someone reported problems with this brand, so far it's working good 10k later. 

20180628_173658.jpg.0e93a99febb204d46e996ed7bb6ecb66.jpg

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I do remeber a recall on one of the tie rod ends for some of them. But recall which ones were covered in it. I am interested my self in the upgrade. My Moog parts have been on for about 240k now and will be needing replacement soon I think.

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It's a good design, finally. It took a few iterations after the release in MY08.5 to get it right. Make sure you get the latest a greatest design. It has alignment pins that keep the tow tie rods in proper alignment during adjustment. 

 

10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Ummm... You do realize that 2003 and up Dodge trucks and Ram Trucks are FORD power steering boxes and power steering pumps? :whistle:

 

First I've heard that... want to elaborate? 

 

Besides, this thread isn't talking about either of those parts. 

Edited by AH64ID

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My source is Ryan at Blue Top Steering. He informed me that after 2003 when ATF was used in the power steering system is because the old Sagnaw boxes were replaced with Ford Steering boxes. This continued since 2003 using Ford steering boxes. So this why 2003 and up is ATF and 2002 and back is power steering fluid. 

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But Ford owns Cummins...

 

Sounds like some serious assumptions going on. 
 

I’ll need to actually see something that’s believable first. Besides, you can hear a ford power steering pump 2 miles away, not a Dodge one :lmao:

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1 hour ago, portlandareae28 said:

Hopefully we don't FORD too far away from the topic at hand??  :whistle:


3rd gen needed a change so I would guess a 2nd gen does, but I can’t confirm. Hopefully someone who has done it will chime in. 

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11 hours ago, AH64ID said:

It has alignment pins that keep the tow tie rods in proper alignment during adjustment. 

Picture I posted above has the alignment pins. My y style steering used to hit front pumpkin just enough to scratch the paint off of it. My T style one has a good half inch to spare.

This was a direct bolt-on for me as I already had 17 inch wheels, I reused my original pitman arm and didn't have to mess with cone angle for the ball socket. I believe 00,01,02 is a direct bolt on unless you have 16 inch wheels then you can simply grind the studs to clear the rims.

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My 02 was a direct fit for the 4th gen steering at the knuckles...same taper and diameter.  I have 20" wheels so I can't comment on the 16" wheel clearance.

 

My pitman arm was not the same diameter as the ball socket...had to ream it out to the correct diameter.  However my pitman arm is not a stock part...it's a drop pitman arm for a lift.  It was installed at the exact same time I installed the 4th gen steering, locking hubs/bearings, ball joints and the lift.  So it's possible that it was sized incorrectly from the part manufacturer.  Reaming it out was easy enough for me to not question it at the time.

 

I have been happy with the 4th gen since install...just wish it would have came with grease zerts on the ball sockets. 

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8 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I drilled and tapped my own.

I think I'm gonna do that too...saw a video 'censor Tube' where a guy did that and documented it fairly well...drill size, tap size zert size, etc.  I'm gonna do it when it comes time to repack the front bearings...since my hands will already be dirty.  Got any advice on it for me? :cheers:

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Remember when they are non-greasable the seals are tighter. Adding grease on a regular basis will weaken and damage the seals which means the service interval will have to increase. 
 

On my OE 05 steering the serviceable joints were the loosest when I replaced the steering. They received quality grease at a more frequent rate than recommended and still didn’t last as long as the sealed ones.  

 



 

Edited by AH64ID
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1 minute ago, AH64ID said:

Remember when they are non-greasable the seals are tighter. Adding grease on a regular basis will weaken and damage the seals which means the service interval will have to increase. 
 

On my OE 05 steering the serviceable joints were the loosest when I replaced the steering. They received quality grease at a more frequent rate than recommended and still didn’t last as long as the sealed ones.  

 



 

That's an interesting point...haven't given any thought to that.  @DieselfutureWhat have you experienced so far in regards to what @AH64IDmentioned above? 

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8 hours ago, Bullet said:

Got any advice on it for me? 

I think we can create a whole new topic on this. Pros cons where is the best place to drill and tap, etc. 

I did it because I felt like I should have them, especially if they last long enough grease will start to solidify and squeezing an extra shot in there would freshen things up. But like @AH64ID said overdoing it might ruin it. Same goes for U-joints, the original sealed ones seem to last the longest, but then again was it just better made. I do agree that sealed units have better seals, I know if you take a cap off a sealed U-joint vs non you can see a huge difference of how tight the seals are on a sealed unit and they are double lip, I can't speak for tie rod seals as I've never really looked at them that hard. To me it looks like a regular rubber boot and if you take it off there would be a ball-and-socket in there that could use some grease.

Now Where to drill and tap that's a good question, I did it right in a center off the flap metal cap. All of them drilled easy aside from one, it was some sort of hardened metal could be stainless, but eventually I drilled through it. I didn't worry too much about metal shavings, it seemed that it all came out as I was grilling. Plus when you get through there is grease inside and it gets the drill bit full of it and the rest of shavings stick to it. It seems like there was a little gap between the metal cap and the ball socket, which makes me believe that the ball didn't directly ride on the surface where I drilled the hole. 

I have not added any grease to it yet as it was brand new when I did it and it have plenty of it inside. I actually thought about doing this job later down the road after I get some mileage on it, but decided to do it right away since it wasn't installed on the truck. I'm not planning on greasing at anytime soon, so it kind of defeats the purpose of doing it. I've always did things the odd way anyway, so to each their own.

You can leave it alone for a few years and do it at some point later. I'd say if you were constantly going in deep water then it would be beneficial to service them after each use. I did that on my off road trucks and every time I could squeeze a little bit of water from most of the joints and they were all brand new too. 

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My oe sealed TRE's lasted 250k before one was going bad. I am still running all the factory sealed u joints except on the front axlea. One failed so I replaced both. They have grease zerks but I have not added any yet. That was about 2.5 years ago.

 

I did seek out and manged to find 3 new old stock u joints for the rear drive shaft for future use. One has to give sooner or later. For me the sealed is the way to go. But are they as good as they used to be, your guess is as good as mine.

 

I should add that I replaced all the front end with Moog non sealed parts and they are approaching 250k. I sure dont grease them that much and the seem ok still. This includes the ball joints.

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7 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I've always did things the odd way anyway, so to each their own.

Right on brother...that's how I roll too!  Thank you for your wisdom on the subject.

 

I'll keep thinking about it...not sure it's necessary as long as the original seal holds.  Thanks again! 

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