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APPS reset procedure


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1 hour ago, InGear said:

Take all the bolts loose, drop some long bolts through the passenger side to keep the bed from sliding off then tilt and support the bed, Pull out the fuel pump/sender and modify w/Draw straw?  Otherwise with out  a post lift, I would need to jack up the rear to clear the high rear part of the tank and accommodate the jack and what ever I would use to support the tank, which I'm guessing I would need to lift it about 10" minimum.  I'LL spray down the bolts tomorrow. Snowing here at the moment.

I have pulled my tank twice but dont remember having to jack up the truck to get it out. I am 4wd so I am sure that made a difference compared to 2wd. Dropped mine on the ground and pulled it out at doors. 

 

I have not tilted the bed but folks I have seen do it remove the front bolts then loosen the rear and raise up the front of the bed.

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2 hours ago, dripley said:

I have pulled my tank twice but dont remember having to jack up the truck to get it out. I am 4wd so I am sure that made a difference compared to 2wd. Dropped mine on the ground and pulled it out at doors. 

 

I have not tilted the bed but folks I have seen do it remove the front bolts then loosen the rear and raise up the front of the bed.

It looks to me that the bed would hit the cab just lifting the front and leaving the back bolts loosened. I have a 4x4 quad cab. Stock rims.

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57 minutes ago, InGear said:

It looks to me that the bed would hit the cab just lifting the front and leaving the back bolts loosened. I have a 4x4 quad cab. Stock rims.

Like I said I have not done it but have seen a few pictures on here and thats how others have. Me, I just dropped the tank.

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I've used the existing lift pump and use it to drain the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Then the tank is pretty light in weight. Easier to let the tank down a bit on a jack to reach the fuel lines and wiring on top. Some people rather lift the bed off if you have a front end loader or shop hoist.

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37 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've used the existing lift pump and use it to drain the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Then the tank is pretty light in weight. Easier to let the tank down a bit on a jack to reach the fuel lines and wiring on top. Some people rather lift the bed off if you have a front end loader or shop hoist.

Yep. Seems like a safer option. Less rigging.  I have a transmission cooler mounted on the frame right behind the transfer case but it looks room between the fuel tank and it on the inside of frame. I want to keep it accessible but" high and dry"

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/6/2020 at 9:55 AM, dripley said:

Your old pump might pump it out. Worth a try. Or just tilt the bed up. 

I was able to pump out the tank into 5 gallon bucket with the old pump. Dropped the tank, pretty straight forward when practically empty. May have been 4 gallons left in it. I have a transmission cooler behind the skid plate so had to settle for mounting on the outside of the frame. Worked out well. I got my Airdog from Vulcan along with the draw straw bulkhead rig that seats in the fuel module where the old in-tank pump motor resided. A new Autometer gauge mounted below the ashtray and tapped in the ashtray light for power for the illumination feature. Running at 15psi. Got my throttle back. WooHoo!!  I still have the analog test meter hooked to the APPS module plug. It reads pretty steady all the way through the throttle but I want to test it tomorrow with the cruise control on a smoother road. Bouncing around and into the throttle, I wasn't for sure the needle wasn't fluctuating or my foot moving with the bouncing. Thanks for your help.

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Do you have a needle valve on the tap for the fuel pressure gauge? If so close it and then barely crack it open. And I mean barely. 

 

You are welcome for the help. Learned most all of what I passed on to you from the members here.

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Yes sir, I bought one after I read some threads on here about gauges. The auto meter gauge kit had a isolator with it. It was aluminum cylinder shape with a diaphragm about 1-1/4" in diameter and about 3" long. Seems to be pretty steady. Only time in the seat will verify the setup. I've had 3 vehicles all with issues since my Dodge started bucking. I have two back in shape and the Toyota needs a flexplate (cracked), so that will be a new adventure. Two wheel drive automatic. Never done one solo. 

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13 hours ago, InGear said:

The auto meter gauge kit had a isolator with it. It was aluminum cylinder shape with a diaphragm about 1-1/4" in diameter and about 3" long.

 

Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years.

 

Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.

 

Image result for mopar1973man fuel pressure sensor bracket

 

post-1-0-80497600-1436996191_thumb.png

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On 3/20/2020 at 8:34 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years.

 

Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.

 

Image result for mopar1973man fuel pressure sensor bracket

 

post-1-0-80497600-1436996191_thumb.png

Thanks, I got a cut-off installed, recommended by dripley. When you wired your 150 amp circuit breaker for the WT mod, does the aux/load side connect to the battery and the batt. side of the breaker attach to the alternator cable?

 

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