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I did some trading today and got a hx35 with a pacbrake exhaust flange and cylinder. Said it was from a 96 3500 with 120k. Can't feel any shaft play at all and spins free. Theres no spot on the compressor housing for a boost elbow. The butterfly is stuck and i haven't tested the cylinder yet, its vacuum. If i can get this thing freed up what all will i have to do to put it on the truck? I think i found the right install manual but haven't had time to really get into it.20200307_193431.jpg.b047da52f49eb83a5100b23dd74fed4d.jpg20200307_193256.jpg.6231a84c05a70393a238a16078ffd421.jpg20200307_193421.jpg.506bdb6eabbcee3b117f2d28e263122c.jpg

20200307_193416.jpg

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Vacuum cylinder works and holds vacuum. Got the butterfly to move but its not free yet. Anyone run one of these that can provide some insight on getting it working?

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Gregturley said:

Anyone run one of these that can provide some insight on getting it working?

 

I freed up a PacBrake butterfly valve on a '96 Dodge that had been frozen for years.  I used carburetor cleaner and just kept exercising the butterfly valve until I could get full range movement.  It took about a half hour, but I did get it working and it has worked fine thereafter.

 

You will need a solenoid operated vacuum control valve with two working ports for the cylinder.  Just provide a fuse and wire it to a switch of your choosing (I use a momentary foot switch) and you should be good to go.

 

You may have to replace the vacuum cylinder.  The cylinder barrel is so close to the exhaust that the seals suffer from the extreme radiant heat generated by the exhaust pipe, so the seals don't last nearly as long as they could - at least it is that way on my '02.  The vacuum cylinder may bench test fine, but when you start driving the truck, the exhaust brake may become intermittent or stick in one position or the other after the engine is warm.

 

The vacuum cylinder is about $150.00 - there is no seal kit available to my knowledge.

 

- John

 

Edited by Tractorman
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@Tractorman @Doubletrouble thanks. It soaked in silikroil overnight. Heated with a propane torch, sprayed down,  cooled. Repeat. Finally got it moving but its not free yet but it will get there i think. Taking to work to soak in carb cleaner and evaporust. 

 Besides maxing out trans line pressure and a lockup switch what needs to be done to a 47re to safely use an exhaust brake?

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 when I got my eb I was told by a Salesman to use it once in awhile even if I didn't need to to keep it from seizing up in a long run 

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My Banks EB did that everytime you started the truck. I have the actuator off the truck due to an issue right now but the butterfy still moves freely after 7 or 8 years. I had to wire it open.

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@Dieselfuture I've heard that before. This thing was seized tight. Took about 2 hours to get it to move at all. Still can't move it by hand have to use vice grips on the lever but its soaking now. I'm working it around once an hour for as long as it takes.

 I need more info on trans mods needed to prevent damage. Heard exhaust brakes were hard on autos but have no experience with one. 

 I have onboard air system and a spare cylinder that may work if the vacuum cylinder is bad. I'm sure i can fab up something.

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10 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@Tractorman @Doubletrouble thanks. It soaked in silikroil overnight. Heated with a propane torch, sprayed down,  cooled. Repeat. Finally got it moving but its not free yet but it will get there i think. Taking to work to soak in carb cleaner and evaporust. 

 Besides maxing out trans line pressure and a lockup switch what needs to be done to a 47re to safely use an exhaust brake?

A valve body with the ability to lock all gears is all I know, 

 

as far freeing up parts, I have my parts washer filled with 20 gallons of wd-40. I have used it to Free up some very rusty parts and makes a good cleaning agent too. It works good for parts that have gaskets and seals that you dont want dried out like a solvent does.

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Found a holset housing with 3521934-02 E4 16 casting number and 18 stamped in runner no wastegate. Think its from a h1c. Something like this work on a 24valve with rv275 injectors? 

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@Tractorman how easy does the butterfly move with the cylinder disconnected? Flop around free, move with a couple fingers or trying to open a pickle jar tight? Its moving but it takes some muscle. I think its way too tight still.

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You are correct - it is still too tight.  It should be effortless to move and you should hear an audible click when it reaches its mechanical stop in both directions.  Just keep working on it.

 

- John

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Got it apart finally. Time to polish things up a bit. Should i use copper anti seize use on the shaft or just get some pacbrake super lube?

20200311_083430.jpg

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11 hours ago, Gregturley said:

Should i use copper anti seize use on the shaft or just get some pacbrake super lube?

 

I am not sure what the correct answer is.  I think anti-seize should work fine.  I think the biggest cause of an exhaust brake butterfly valve seizing is that in many applications the driver does not operate the exhaust brake frequently enough. 

 

I have a PacBrake on my truck and the PackBrake has logged over 400,000 miles - 70,000 on a previous truck, and 338,000 on my current truck.  I have replaced the vacuum cylinder twice, but the butterfly valve has never stuck or become sluggish.  I attribute this to the fact that I operate the exhaust brake frequently every time I drive the truck.

 

- John

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@dieselautopower got it up and working. Wrote my 1st article on here about it. Seems to cut down warm up time pretty good and slows the truck good with converter locked in 3rd but haven't towed or hauled with it yet.

 Pacbrake seems like a good company to deal with. Guy there spent about 10 minutes on phone with me answered all my questions and verified part numbers for me.

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