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Evan

Safe to assume my alternator just quit?

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Did a throttle chop as check gauges light came on voltage reading zero. Got to job site checked cables fuses restart truck and voltage reading well under 14 but not tripping check gauges light.

Alternator has 334665 miles on it.

 

Anything else to check before I replace it. If I do replace it should I keep it to have rebuilt. Or turn in as a core.

 

I'm in Star idaho closest place to me is NAPA .

 

Thanks guys. 

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Posted (edited)

Just pick up a alternator. Have it tested before you pay for it. 

 

DuroBilt is in Nampa ID and rebuilt my alternator for $40 dollars and just needed brushes.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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I would get yours rebuilt, or at least looked at.  It worked wonderfully for 300k.  so your gonna swap it with one from who knows where and someone you don't know said "they rebuilt it...."   You may not have an alternator shop close, so the box store might be your only option.  But if you have an alternator/starter shop I would trust them significantly more.

 

Just my $0.02

 

GL

 

Hag

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My landlord (Russ) sent down a huge batch of starters and alternators to Durobilt. The only problem they where quoting a high price of $150 a alternator to be rebuilt and Russ bought his alternator for less from NAPA. Still he had some rebuilt but was quoted all needing rebuilt for $150 a alternator. 

 

For what ever reason I walked in and they rebuilt mine in mere minutes and quoted $40 bucks. 

 

Just remember on the ceiling is a huge sign stating they will beat any price by 5%.

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Posted (edited)

I agree with @Haggar check for a reputable rebuild shop first, if you can down your truck for the duration. Start replacing with box stores and your just be playing the replacement game 

 


 

Is yours a bosch? If so, get it rebuilt. I’m still running the original bosch at 335k, still working like the day it was new, and never even disconnected my grids, they cycle on a daily basis.

 

you could also check into the nations alternators, heard they are top notch, just pay once and cry once :cry: :broke:

Edited by 01cummins4ever
Can’t spell

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02 Dodge Durango 5.9l V8 alternator is 160 amp and all you have to do is swap the pulley with your stock pulley. I cut down some nuts that grab more threads if you need one let me know. Part number in in a thread on here i did a month or so ago.

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3 hours ago, Gregturley said:

02 Dodge Durango 5.9l V8 alternator is 160 amp and all you have to do is swap the pulley with your stock pulley. I cut down some nuts that grab more threads if you need one let me know. Part number in in a thread on here i did a month or so ago.

 

I wish I knew about this years ago when i bought my new Denso. But granted it has worked great since.

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Well I have an alternator on me. Running on battery power for 60 miles. Can she do it. Pumps down to 15psi.

Not even to freeway meridian yet :(

Maybe I have tools.

 

20200320_210935.jpg

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@pepsi71ocean if your alt is working for you theres really no reason to change it. If you have a big electrical demand or when it craps out its an affordable upgrade. Saved me a bunch of money and my lights no longer dim with Metallica making my ears bleed!

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Posted (edited)

New alt is charging well 

However lift pump wireing does not fair well wrapped around the fan

 

No time working today hauling rd mix to Kuna working to stay working doing repairs and fixing my screw ups

Edited by Evan

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1 hour ago, Evan said:

However lift pump wireing does not fair well wrapped around the fan

 

Hua?

 

Are you hooking to the alternator? Don't do this! If the alternator blows the fuse or circuit breaker it will for sure wipe out the pump motor. Only hook up the supply lead to the PDC on the battery stud not the Alternator stud. This will give good power to the fuel pump without having issues with voltage or corrosion on the terminals. 

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Mine was on the alternator for years. Swapped it to the PDC after doing WT's ground mod. Just did not want the wire on the battery terminal. I remeber it beingmthe alternate method that AD recomended. But that is my memory at work.:think:

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I landed it on the terminal the alternator used to be on.

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I tapped into an unused fuse pin. Worked great for me. It's been that way for years. And the fuel heater is run from the ECM is run right through the fuel heater plug. 

 

I have a master switch, that controls it but yes I have it too.

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Mine is just hooked to the PDC where the red lead from the battery comes from the driver side battery to the PDC. Right on that stud is totally safe for the AirDog and the terminals will not rot. 

 

15 hours ago, dripley said:

I landed it on the terminal the alternator used to be on.

That is also a good spot if you have done the W-T ground wire mod. If not do not use this side again if the fuse blows it will wipe out the fuel pump motor.

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