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Technically it shouldn't have alot of free play. 

 

The procedure to djust this cable is checking it at wide open throttle with converter locked in 3rd. Rpm when it makes the shift at wide open throttle should be 2800-3000.

 

Tightening the cable will make it shift higher rpm looser lower.

 

Theres is tv stop inside the tranny to set minimum pressure off idle  this is what I I am curious about.  

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Posted (edited)

 

Sounds like something I need to have a trans shop do? How would one measure that pressure?

Anyhow, the throttle and TV cable have similar slack in them, maybe both a little loose? Not sure what that upper inner cable is, that one is super slack. Cruise control?

 Thanks Evan!

Edited by dieseldon
clairity

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No we can read pressure off the accumulator port in the the transmission.

 

I'll have to make up another gauge. Th he last one exploded in my cab when trans pressure broke 200psi. It's only 165 ish now.

 

Alittle bit ok slack in cable is okay. 

 

Would Wednesday work sometime after 5

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That would be awesome! Wednesday works for me , let me know if you want me to come to you or would you rather see what's happening when cold?

 On a other note I got confused on that cable and checked from topside, will look again tomorrow.

 Thanks!

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Hi Evan, so I just had a crazy experience.

I didn't realize I needed to check trans fluid level in neutral so I decided to recheck while cold this morning. After idling approx 5min I check and nothing on dip stick! What the?? So I drove around block and check again, normal level! I call trans shop and ask about, they tell me that's impossible, you can't make trans fluid from nothing, I say maybe true but that IS what happened, Them; no it didn't!

 Who's crazy in this scenario?? Any thoughts?

 BTW let me know if you need me to get a new gauge or anything else you need.

  Thanks!

Another thing, I checked that tv cable at trans and did seem slack to me, but compared to what?

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Just got off phone with transgo to see if they could give pressure values on that, he said they can't without knowing kit# which I don't know. Described problem and he seemed confident there can only be two issues, restriction in cooling line or bad pressure valve. He did kinda give instructions on how to bypass cooler lines to eliminate that, so??

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I've never heard of Freeman Creek Transmission in Orofino, and I'm only a couple of hours from there. Oh well, I don't know everyone.

 

Pressure is not going to stall the truck when you put it into gear, nor is a TV cable being out of adjustment. Set the TV cable for a 2900 rpm WOT 1-2 shift, and then leave it alone. And for the love of all that's holy, don't mess with the TV stop. That is set to a specific spec, and is not something to adjust.

 

Your engine is seeing a load large enough to pull the engine rpm down faster then the fuel system can fuel it to stabilize the idle. About the only things that the transmission could do to cause that would be a stall speed that's too low, or something wrong with the converter; incorrectly assembled, failed stator sprag, sprag in backwards...something like that. A converter issue will typically be worse when cold because the fluid is thicker. I would love to know what converter part number they used.

 

But, there's also the chance that the issue lies elsewhere.

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2 minutes ago, Dynamic said:

Set the TV cable for a 2900 rpm WOT 1-2 shift, and then leave it alone. And for the love of all that's holy, don't mess with the TV stop.

 

Bingo!

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Thanks for info, however since I have absolutely no idea how to do that, probably won't be messing with, sounds like it has nothing to do with stalling anyhow? The only thing I know about tv cable is how Haynes manual describes the1/32 end to end thing?

 So you wouldn't suggest bypassing trans cooler as suggested by transgo?

 The owner at freeman creek says he works on tons of dodges in area and has never heard of the issue I'm having, curious if you or anyone else has or am I an enigma?? As far as converter used, I didn't get a part# but he said it's a transtar billit triple disk, transgo diesel shift kit, sensors, sungear? So don't know if that tells you what you're wondering?

 Thanks for trying to help figure out!

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You are jot the first to have this issue. I have read here of the issue in the past. Not many however. How to solve is way over my head.

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I've seen this issue many times, and it almost always has to do with too tight of a converter.

 

I kind of figured they were using Transtar converters and Transgo kits, which tells me really all I need to know. I'm not trying to beat up on them necessarily, but I do deal with "local shop" builds a lot. It would be helpful to know what part number of converter they used. If they used an S4 or an S5, that's too tight of a converter. Believe me, I've been through the wars with those Transtar converters way back in the day, which is why I will only use specialty converter builders now.

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Thanks dynamic, starting to think I just live with until I'm ready for new converter? Is there any harm to any components using this power brake  first start of the day procedure? Other than being annoying?

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Question for dynamic, so is their a way to loosen that converter or it is what it is?

Thanks!

Hey dynamic, BTW model of converter is or part# cacr70xs3 if helps.

Thanks!

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So it turns out transtar operates right here out of boise so I call and quiz them, he called it a cascade low stall converter, (not enough to stall motor) he says best bet is to scan it and check lockup solenoid. Probably my next move after quarantine jazz and assuming we're all still alive!

Thanks, stay healthy!

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Yeah, that's a Cascade S3 converter. Cascade has been out of business for several years now. Not a terrible converter. I used to use them from time to time. They do tend to be on the tight side, but usually worked fairly well.

 

Scanning it will not tell you anything. Even if the TCC solenoid was commanded on, there's no oil at the TCC lockup valve until 2nd gear in a 47RE valve body. Again, the TV stop or TV cable will not have any affect on it.

 

Does the truck stall when put into reverse as well as forward gear?

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Hi, yes it will stall in any position other than park or neutral. Once I do that power brake thing, might have to do it several times depending on how cold it is, then it will ide up rpms on its own and operate normally.

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Man, that sure sounds like a converter problem. An S3 really shouldn't be doing that, but there may actually be something wrong with it. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen it with the cheaper converters.

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So, the only way to know for sure is to try another converter?

 Question; do I just drive it, "it is what it is" or can it potentially take out trans?

I realize maybe an educated guess, but?

Thanks!

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Dynamic, just to be clear are you saying $1300 is cheap for a converter, (5yrs ago) or it's cheaply built, or? Either way, do you think it's ok to just live with it? Is there a way to test short of trying a different one?

  Had an interesting conversation with prior owner the other day, (he works with a big maintenance crew up in Alaska) he told me he spoke with some very knowledgeable mechanics up there and they thought it was "sorta" normal, he said he even knew of a couple guys with the same converter with same issue.

He said if I plan on towing with, (I do) then don't swap it and just deal with it. Assuming it's just an inconvenience that's my plan because I love the way it shifts and hooks up otherwise.

 On a side note, I told him how I spoke with freeman creek and how they "never heard of anything like this"  He thought pretty odd too since he clearly remembers discussing with them, so there's that .

 Thanks again for any thoughts!

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Well, not being able to drive the truck and feel the way the converter is working, I'm pretty much not in a position to give advice on what to do. I can offer suggestions and share experiences to a point, but I simply don't have enough information to steer you in the right direction. The VP44 is not the greatest fuel system that ever came on a diesel, so I tend to agree with the Alaska guys that it can be somewhat normal, and perhaps a price you pay for lowering the stall speed. I certainly have seen this scenario...many times, and it certainly is a consideration when choosing stall speed.

 

But $1300 for a Cascade S3 torque converter?? Ouch...

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