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Should I get a cold air intake for my 5.9 Cummins?


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Hello fellow diesel fans! I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 with a 5.9 Cummins. It is stock besides some kind of fuel system modification that returns fuel to the tank if it detects to much fuel is being injected.( Not sure what it’s called). I’ve been researching if a cold air intake is worth it. To me it just looks like a rerouted air filter. But mechanics and other car guys are talking like it’s the king of diesel parts or something. Honestly, I would just take out the stock air routing and just do a direct air filter mount to the turbo. But mechanics are saying it’s bad for the engine. I’m confused please help. Thanks! color copies for low cost at 55 printing

 
Edited by PaulArthur1
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Welcome. It would  be better for this to be in 2nd generation forum and not the 4th. Maybe @Mopar1973Man or @JAG1 can help with that.

There is return line on all the 2nd gen motors from the head that returns excess fuel not used while the engine is running. Thats standard equipment. Alot of after market fuel systems add a return line from the pump either to the fuel basket or the filler neck. 

As far cold air intakes, unless you going major power up grades, i dont see any benefit. Very few members here have them with some pushing 500hp. The BHAF is filter most widely used here. It will fit right on to the existing intake tube. post-338-0-88651000-1441636017_thumb.jpg

I have seen the little filters that go on the turbo but don't think much of them myself. I am sure there are other opinions on them. I am sure you will be hearing them soon.

Edited by JAG1
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1 hour ago, PaulArthur1 said:

I’ve been researching if a cold air intake is worth it.

Cold air actually hurts the MPG number. Optimal IAT temperature is 100 to 140*F. Below 80*F there is a sudden change in timing that typically adds about another 4* of timing and decreases MPG's.

I'm also been running BHAF and roughly 500 HP and even at 80 MPH @ 2,500 RPM I still roll at 600-700*F EGT's roughly. No real gain for cold air intakes.

 

1 hour ago, PaulArthur1 said:

It is stock besides some kind of fuel system modification that returns fuel to the tank if it detects to much fuel is being injected

No such system exist. It will inject as much fuel as you command. Hence I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors (+150 HP) and a Quadzilla tuner that allows me to hold the fuel pin open an extra 2,200us worth of pulse. All commanded fuel will be injected to the cylinder even if its excessive (hence the creation of black smoke). There is nothing in the system to limit fuel unless your running a Quadzilla tuner. Now you can limit below stock rate and control limit in regards to EGT's, Coolant, etc. Again stock has no such systems.

 

1 hour ago, PaulArthur1 said:

Honestly, I would just take out the stock air routing and just do a direct air filter mount to the turbo. But mechanics are saying it’s bad for the engine.

Washable filters are bad for the engine. BHAF is not a washable filter and the most common single use filter around. I do not recommend a washable filter or cold air intakes. Again below 80*F there is a sudden shift in timing and not for the good. Below 80*F of IAT you should be retarding not advancing. Hence where the MPG fooler design came from and why I'm still selling the high idle kits with IAT fooler. 

 

 

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Save your money.  The turbocharger heats the air when it compresses it and the intercooler cools it about 100°F.  The heat shield between the air filter and the engine doesn't stop hot air from under the hood being used considering the amount of air being used.  A 5.9 liter engine running at 1800 RPMs  is using over 187 cubic feet of air a minute.    

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Speaking quietly to me in a meeting one of the former big air filter company engineer/reps told me and enclosed CAI made more power on dyno and had cooler air below 30MPH, after that it was same as an open filter under the hood.

 

An enclosed box would increase longevity of a filter.  Any "WRAP"  or prefilter will restrict flow significantly.

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