Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Should I get a cold air intake for my 5.9 Cummins?


Recommended Posts

Hello fellow diesel fans! I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 with a 5.9 Cummins. It is stock besides some kind of fuel system modification that returns fuel to the tank if it detects to much fuel is being injected.( Not sure what it’s called). I’ve been researching if a cold air intake is worth it. To me it just looks like a rerouted air filter. But mechanics and other car guys are talking like it’s the king of diesel parts or something. Honestly, I would just take out the stock air routing and just do a direct air filter mount to the turbo. But mechanics are saying it’s bad for the engine. I’m confused please help. Thanks! color copies for low cost at 55 printing

 
Edited by PaulArthur1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome. It would  be better for this to be in 2nd generation forum and not the 4th. Maybe @Mopar1973Man or @JAG1 can help with that.

There is return line on all the 2nd gen motors from the head that returns excess fuel not used while the engine is running. Thats standard equipment. Alot of after market fuel systems add a return line from the pump either to the fuel basket or the filler neck. 

As far cold air intakes, unless you going major power up grades, i dont see any benefit. Very few members here have them with some pushing 500hp. The BHAF is filter most widely used here. It will fit right on to the existing intake tube. post-338-0-88651000-1441636017_thumb.jpg

I have seen the little filters that go on the turbo but don't think much of them myself. I am sure there are other opinions on them. I am sure you will be hearing them soon.

Edited by JAG1
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner
1 hour ago, PaulArthur1 said:

I’ve been researching if a cold air intake is worth it.

Cold air actually hurts the MPG number. Optimal IAT temperature is 100 to 140*F. Below 80*F there is a sudden change in timing that typically adds about another 4* of timing and decreases MPG's.

I'm also been running BHAF and roughly 500 HP and even at 80 MPH @ 2,500 RPM I still roll at 600-700*F EGT's roughly. No real gain for cold air intakes.

 

1 hour ago, PaulArthur1 said:

It is stock besides some kind of fuel system modification that returns fuel to the tank if it detects to much fuel is being injected

No such system exist. It will inject as much fuel as you command. Hence I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors (+150 HP) and a Quadzilla tuner that allows me to hold the fuel pin open an extra 2,200us worth of pulse. All commanded fuel will be injected to the cylinder even if its excessive (hence the creation of black smoke). There is nothing in the system to limit fuel unless your running a Quadzilla tuner. Now you can limit below stock rate and control limit in regards to EGT's, Coolant, etc. Again stock has no such systems.

 

1 hour ago, PaulArthur1 said:

Honestly, I would just take out the stock air routing and just do a direct air filter mount to the turbo. But mechanics are saying it’s bad for the engine.

Washable filters are bad for the engine. BHAF is not a washable filter and the most common single use filter around. I do not recommend a washable filter or cold air intakes. Again below 80*F there is a sudden shift in timing and not for the good. Below 80*F of IAT you should be retarding not advancing. Hence where the MPG fooler design came from and why I'm still selling the high idle kits with IAT fooler. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

Save your money.  The turbocharger heats the air when it compresses it and the intercooler cools it about 100°F.  The heat shield between the air filter and the engine doesn't stop hot air from under the hood being used considering the amount of air being used.  A 5.9 liter engine running at 1800 RPMs  is using over 187 cubic feet of air a minute.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Speaking quietly to me in a meeting one of the former big air filter company engineer/reps told me and enclosed CAI made more power on dyno and had cooler air below 30MPH, after that it was same as an open filter under the hood.

 

An enclosed box would increase longevity of a filter.  Any "WRAP"  or prefilter will restrict flow significantly.

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
On 4/1/2020 at 8:27 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

adds about another 4* of timing and decreases MPG's

Is this because it winds up being OVER timed, results in excess negative torque?  Because I can't help but notice that when we're tuning our Adrenalines, we try to advance as much as safe/beneficial so that we increase MPGs!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Quadzilla doesn't use any IAT info at all. Excluded... No effect of IAT while Quadzilla is running or not in Level ZERO.

 

Stock Fuel, Edge Comp or Edge Juice, Smarty all use the IAT and crank up the extra timing and create the negative torque. I fought this for a long time on my Edge Comp. Now with the Quadzilla I don't have any effect of the IAT while the tune is running. But in warm up mode (or Quadzilla level 0) the timing goes high for me I can see it it can reach up to 23* at 2k at about 30*F IAT. Once Quadzilla step up my timing falls back to 19* or 20* @ 2k RPM's. I've got my warm up mode set for 140*F to get into the Quad Timing quicker. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Save your money, I run a BHAF as well.  I tried a new AFE cold air kit with a dry synthetic filter for 6 months.  When I removed it to change my oil filter it was full of dust on the turbo side and the filter still looked new.  I promptly put the BHAF back on.  I know the wix number for the filter is 42790, you should be able to cross reference that if you wanted a different brand.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner
1 hour ago, Sycostang67 said:

Save your money, I run a BHAF as well.  I tried a new AFE cold air kit with a dry synthetic filter for 6 months.  When I removed it to change my oil filter it was full of dust on the turbo side and the filter still looked new.  I promptly put the BHAF back on.  I know the wix number for the filter is 42790, you should be able to cross reference that if you wanted a different brand.  

:iagree: I've seen several trucks with high dollar cold air intake with blacken turbos from the amount of dust and debris passed through the compressor wheel. BHAF is the best option for clean air for your 2nd Gen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff
9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

:iagree: I've seen several trucks with high dollar cold air intake with blacken turbos from the amount of dust and debris passed through the compressor wheel. BHAF is the best option for clean air for your 2nd Gen.

 Are there different filtration ratings among the different BHAF out there? (Not sure if they do a micron rating or something else)

 Just curious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Since the micron rating on the BHAF is a fixed number being you never wash it. 

 

Now all the Cold Air Intake Filter every time you wash the filter it losing it micron rating. So how many washes till the filter is nothing more than a screen door? I know K & N is a screen right out of the box. For all you that like washable air filter here you go a Cummins washable oil filter. If you trust your washable air filter go for the washable oil filter and tell me all about how it short the engine life. I'll wait... :rolleyes:

 

8501_HUBB_3_updated_web_600x600.jpg

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

image.png.e60e2ef19ab09e72ed5137773a6bfe42.png

Here is what I just came up with for BHAF options.  Donaldson is the only manufacturer with filter efficiency and the test used, and also the only supplier to give flow data so the day I switch they'll get my business.

 

Once again, NAPA is trying to find the sucker born every minute.

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

a Cummins washable oil filter

Is that meant for a 1940's engine?!  Looks good for a prefilter.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner
10 minutes ago, LorenS said:

s that meant for a 1940's engine?!  Looks good for a prefilter.

 

That is for our 1998.5 to 2002 Cummins ISB racing performance oil filter. 

11 minutes ago, LorenS said:

Donaldson is the only manufacturer with filter efficiency and the test used, and also the only supplier to give flow data so the day I switch they'll get my business.

Donaldson is typically the one sold by most vendors. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Nappa sells reboxed Wix filters. 

Yes. Makes a guy wonder how they sleep at night, charging a person $106 for a $40 filter.  That's something you do to someone who deserves it, not the general public.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff
1 hour ago, LorenS said:

Makes a guy wonder how they sleep at night

The reason Nappa charges so much is they're real proud of their stuff.  :spend:    When I was at Moparman's house this spring and needed a front wheel hub the Nappa in Mc Call, ID wanted $207 and take 2-3 days to get it where as the Orielly"s in Lewiston, ID had one in stock and cost me less than $160.  Luck would have it that Mike was going to Lewiston shopping with Wet Vette and could pick it up for me.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...