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Could I please get some help. Ive trying to get my 01 6 spd manual started after sitting for 2 years now. I got the fuel problem fixed. turned the key and nothing. new batteries fully charged. Are there still neutral safety switches? something else I could be looking for ?. TIA

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Posted (edited)

Thanks fellas for the input. I only get home on the weekends witch makes things difficult. last weekend I was searching for the neutral safety switch down on the clutch pedal, all I can really see is what I would say is the hydraulic plunger. SWo I crawled under and looked at tranny driver side, nothing. Passenger side is a 2 wire connector that worked it self out, I thought that might do it, but no. The #2 fuse checked good. Ill check the relay tonight. 

While I was having the fuel issue it cranked over just fine, is it possible the starter got to hot and just failed ?

Yes all lights on dash work.

Is the clutch pedal position switch testable ?

Edited by wldbil95
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That switch l believe is on the rod to the master cylinder. If not something that is tied to the clutch pedal. I took mine off 13 years or so ago and dont remeber exactly what it was on, but it is under the dash. If you can find it just jumper the wires and it should start clutch in or out. If it does not it could be the starter. Thats the problem I had back then and thought it was the switch and turned out to be the starter.

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11 hours ago, dripley said:

That switch l believe is on the rod to the master cylinder. If not something that is tied to the clutch pedal. I took mine off 13 years or so ago and dont remeber exactly what it was on, but it is under the dash. If you can find it just jumper the wires and it should start clutch in or out. If it does not it could be the starter. Thats the problem I had back then and thought it was the switch and turned out to be the starter.

 

RockAuto sells that clutch safety switch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,clutch+pedal+position+/+starter+safety+switch,16665

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20 hours ago, wldbil95 said:

Thanks fellas for the input. I only get home on the weekends witch makes things difficult. last weekend I was searching for the neutral safety switch down on the clutch pedal, all I can really see is what I would say is the hydraulic plunger. SWo I crawled under and looked at tranny driver side, nothing. Passenger side is a 2 wire connector that worked it self out, I thought that might do it, but no. The #2 fuse checked good. Ill check the relay tonight. 

While I was having the fuel issue it cranked over just fine, is it possible the starter got to hot and just failed ?

Yes all lights on dash work.

Is the clutch pedal position switch testable ?

Green connector, two yellow wires it what your looking for.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the starter installed turns over really quick now, got fuel to vp44. but not popping off. Seems to me its lost its prime again, even after having a shop replace a check valve. What is the proper way to prime pump? TIA

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Loosen a couple injector nuts then bump the starter and leave key on on you should hear the electric lift pump running for a while. Repeat a couple times. Tighten nuts and cycle the lift pump again then try starting. You must have good batteries to start. Not all lift pumps work that way. This is for the stock lift pumps.

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You do need to crack 2 or 3 lines to the head so the fuel can get past the VP. When get a good flow thru one close it off. Then look for anotherand close it. By then you should be getting some fire.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No I have not. Do you recommend a good scanner? I do remember last time I drove it to Hay Days that the fuel gauge was all over the place. I figure once I get it moved I could replace sending unit. I would wager that this truck is one of the few remaining rust free 2nd gens in MN.

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4 hours ago, wldbil95 said:

I ordered one. have any idea on what its gonna tell me? do the vp44s get rebuilt, is there a better direct replacement? 

You say this sat for 2 years. And you have fuel to the pump, but nothing out the lines? You pump is gummed up, nothing short of replacing the pump will get you going. I'm on my second replacement  pump , I get about 450K out of them. My last one sat for several years even with fuel dumped was still gummed up, wasn't getting any fuel to the lines, replaced pump fired off after cracking a few lines. The air will be in the top 3 lines of the pump. I have gotten both mine from Diesel Specialties here in Omaha, their branch in Sioux City doe the rebuilding (Bosch authorized) I think the last one was $1200 plus core.

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5 hours ago, wldbil95 said:

I ordered one. have any idea on what its gonna tell me? do the vp44s get rebuilt, is there a better direct replacement? 

DAP has theVP's for $1000 + the ride. One year warranty. They also have other options. That is where I got my last one. His come fron Industrial Injection l believe. There are very few rebuilders and many, many sellers. Remans are are the only thing available. 

 The code reader might not tell you anything if the pump is gummed up from sitting. If you work on your vehicle they are a very good tool to have.

 Have you ever verified you do have fuel to the VP or the head?

 

 

@Blueox01 l made 277k off my last one. That seemed to me yo be pretty darn good compared to others. What are you doing to get such longevity?

 

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, dripley said:

DAP has theVP's for $1000 + the ride. One year warranty. They also have other options. That is where I got my last one. His come fron Industrial Injection l believe. There are very few rebuilders and many, many sellers. Remans are are the only thing available. 

 The code reader might not tell you anything if the pump is gummed up from sitting. If you work on your vehicle they are a very good tool to have.

 Have you ever verified you do have fuel to the VP or the head?

 

 

@Blueox01 l made 277k off my last one. That seemed to me yo be pretty darn good compared to others. What are you doing to get such longevity?

 

Guess just lucky original lasted to 453K. Diesel Specialties does it's own rebuilding, they're not just small truck diesel, they also do big truck pump rebuilding also (that's their main target) 1st replacement would still be good if it hadn't set so long.

Edited by Blueox01
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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

Guess just lucky original lasted to 453K. Diesel Specialties does it's own rebuilding, 1st replacement would still be good if it hadn't set so long.

My oe last 75k. Better than some l have seen here though. My last one came from Blue Chip 8 or 9 years ago for $1700. It wasthe only one I could find with new electronics at the time. Not sure how much better theirs are today since they dont build theirs either.

Edited by dripley
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Yes I have fuel to the banjo bolt at pump. Are there any specialized tools needed for pump swap out that I would need? Ive always been pretty good about making sure power service anti gel is in the system before winter. I suppose gelling and gumming are not the same thing. 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, wldbil95 said:

Ive always been pretty good about making sure power service anti gel is in the system before winter.

 

Even living up here in Idaho I've never used PowerService. I only just make sure to run the truck enough to get fresh winterized fuel on board. Now it will not gell up, all the way down to minus temps. Be aware Power Service does not have any lubricants this can be seen by leaving a small sample of PS in a small container that is open. In a few days it will evaporate and leave a gummy residue behind. You can leave 2 cycle exposed forever its still oil. 

 

If I was to shut down for this next winter I would load up with winterized diesel and dump a shot of Snowmobile Oil in the tank. This will drop the freeze point down further being most snowmobile oil is -50*F or more. Most winterized diesel is rated to -20*F or so. 2 Cycle oil will keep a oily film on all fuel system parts and makes first startup better. 

 

Most all over the fuel additives are just an alcohol base for cetane boosters which will evaporate in time and be lost at starup. Since most all fuel additives that I've studied do not contain any oil or lubricants.  Just allow the product to stand in the open air and what is remaining is the oils if any are left... Lube oils will never evaporate, other than that we would be adding oil very often.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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