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Good morning, currently installing my FASS 165 LP and the directions have me installing an Add-A-Fuse into a ignition hot fuse under the hood it does not talk about wiring the LP into the PCM at all. Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I should place this "add-a-fuse" for the ignition hot. I've added the install manual i'm working with for reference, it's on PDF page 13 step E and F. 

 

Thanks and cheers!

TS-D08-095G-or-TS-D08-165G-2.pdf

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7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Don't do it. Hooking to the ignition makes the pump run even after an accident. Better to hook to the ECM with protection fuse and relay at least when the engine stops the ECM will shut down the pump.

 

Any idea on the steps to take to complete this, I'm not electrical savvy at all sadly enough. 

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Some of the instructions seems to be missing. The power they are telling you to connect to is powering the relay. I dont see anything showing what triggers the relay. Mine is wired very similar for power but the oe pigtail for the lift pump is plugged into the relay harness for the trigger. @jtrakel is their a 2 pin connector on the relay harness for that pigtail to plug into That step is missing from the instructions or I missed it.

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Posted (edited)

@dripley I don't have any other pig tails with this kit. The only connection I have with the supplied cable goes directly to the lift pump, then I have the green (ground) and red (power) wire going to the battery, lastly the portion in question that has the Add-A-Fuse which the directions call to connect into a ignition hot fuse. I got the kit from @dieselautopower so I assume it's the correct kit for the rig.

 

 

It appears that almost all FASS lift pumps have this add a fuse install vs the Air dog systems which communicate with the ECM via the OEM fuel pump electrical connection

Edited by jtrakel
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Does the relay harness have 2, 2 pin connectors on it?

 

I ask because in step 3 line F it states to connect the factory plug to the harness. That should the one from the ECM to the factory pump. Then connect the other plug to the FASS pump. The factory connector is what closes the relay to give power to the pump to run. It also allows the FASS pump to be under the control of the ECM.

What kind of pump was on it before this install?

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I only have One, 2 pin connection on the harness provided. I see the step you brought up and that would make absolute sense if they provided a way to plug it in!!! I've been reading this thread as well I found thinking I may just follow these steps so the ECM talks with the pump. Just have to research it some more to figure out what wire to connect to where, I am very challenged when it comes to talking about pins etc and electrical.

 

 

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That pretty sucks on the wiring harness. I cant figure a relay harnes with no way to connect a control to it. I understand on the the electrical part things. No great with it myself. Had I not installec a couple of these before I would just be a reader and not a contributer. 

I would @dieselautopower and maybe tomfind out whats going on. The instructions lack a bit to be desired.

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So I noticed there is a pig tail attached to my OEM harness for the fuel pump. If I take the Add-A-Fuse cable from the FASS harness and tap into the red wire will this satisfy to power requirements fro the ECM and operate the lift pump correctly @IBMobile

 

Pig tail attached to OEM harness. The red wire connects to the Yello/White wire (ECM power as I understand)

IMG_1720.JPEG.ad992a0c5c1d557bace16209c41d8018.JPEG

 

 

Add-a-fuse wire from FASS harness. If I cut the fuse portion off and then splice it into the pig tail will this be good enough or do I need to do something with the other half of the connector (black wire).

IMG_1721.JPEG.3097ac6a9ea557ffbbe87abb9ea1c2ea.JPEG

 

Relay provided by FASS kit that's integrated into system terminals are as follows

85- Going to Add-A-Fuse wire

86- Ground which is also going to lift pump connection

87- Power heading down the length of truck to lift pump

87a-  EMPTY

30- power from battery per FASS install instructions

IMG_1722.JPEG.05770cc63b54e1d18bbbe139e1df0926.JPEG

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Posted (edited)

I always use terminal 85 as my ground, black/white wire, that's the way it is on most wire diagrams. Terminal 86 is ECM ,use yellow/white wire, switched and only needs a 2amp fuse if you want too add one there.

 That relay you are showing does not have surge protecting with a resister or diode.  This is important  to keep voltage spikes traveling back to the ECM when the relay is shut off.  I've seen spikes as high as 100 volts dc from an unprotected  relay.  

58a68932f26d5_AAEAAQAAAAAAAAJtAAAAJDJiM2EyNGNmLWQ5MDUtNDZhNi04YTllLTU2NDMwMWNhMDQwOQ1.jpg.b0420addbe18ffe3e875a19dc9d79cdb.jpg58a6881d33c93_PC-792A-IC-CI-125-RN-X__71190.1427599205_500_5001.jpg.ede3e8ad146b8ea2508101541f49736d.jpg

Try to find a switched 12 volt feed in the PDC and use that as your 12 volt supply within line fuse to terminal 30.  Yes, 87 to the fuel pump.

Edited by IBMobile
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We did have a couple kits get sent from FASS with the wrong harness with the kit.  Can you confirm the part # on the bag?  send pics to warranty@dieselautopower.com and Mitch can give more help on Monday.  Sorry for the headache :(

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4 minutes ago, dieselautopower said:

We did have a couple kits get sent from FASS with the wrong harness with the kit.  Can you confirm the part # on the bag?  send pics to warranty@dieselautopower.com and Mitch can give more help on Monday.  Sorry for the headache :(


 

email sent thanks 

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One purpose of setting the pump up on a relay is to get the 12v load off of the ECM. Using the OE pig tail to trigger the relay accomplishes that and power comes from another 12v source as FASS instructions are showing with the add a fuse

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Posted (edited)

Well I got the pump temporarily wired up to the ECM (hopefully DAP will send a new harness) and it runs as it should, turn ignition on and it runs for about 2 seconds and then bump the starter and it will run for 25 seconds. I'm currently in the process of trying to get the truck to turn over now with no luck (no codes), I've already cracked the line from the LP to the VP44 and its getting fuel along with hearing the return fuel dumping back into the fill neck of the tank from the LP.

 

I've cracked 3 of the injectors lines and there is not a drop of diesel to be seen thus far. Maybe I just need to keep turning it over or is something else going on? I did do a lot of things to the truck at once which is not always the best practice but it was so torn apart I might as well.

 

Replaced tappet cover gasket (removed VP44 and vacuum/power steering pump)

Rebuilt vacuum pump

W-T mod w/ inline breaker on the passenger battery and parallel ground ran between batteries 

PCM/Alternator protection with/inline 7.5 fuse

Two new batteries

Replaced all power steering hoses

Removed OEM engine mounted fuel pump and OEM fuel filter (may install again at later date)

Install FASS 165GPH lift pump

 

Truck is now completely stock except 5in exhaust, Banks "Big Ram" intake horn, heater grid delete (removed cables as well), 65 Gallon fuel cell (still cant figure out the manufacture of the tank).

 

Things to be added in near future:

Quad adrenaline BT

VP44 stealth cover (do I even need this with the quad?)

ISSpro fuel press, trans temp, EGT, and boost

New headliner and sun visors ;-)

BHAF 

Edited by jtrakel
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Cycle your lift pump a few times. Sometimes helps get the fuel up there and not as hard on the batteries and starter. Funny thing, l replaced my pump head 6 years ago had a devil of time getting the engine running again. Installed a new VP last Thanksgiving, cycled the the lift pump 2 or 3 times, hit the switch and it fired off in about 3 or4 seconds. 

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1 minute ago, dripley said:

Cycle your lift pump a few times. Sometimes helps get the fuel up there and not as hard on the batteries and starter. Funny thing, l replaced my pump head 6 years ago had a devil of time getting the engine running again. Installed a new VP last Thanksgiving, cycled the the lift pump 2 or 3 times, hit the switch and it fired off in about 3 or4 seconds. 

 

Yeah I'm going to give it some more tomorrow in hopes I did give it enough time to clear out the air, with the way this truck has been thus far I'm nervous about not replacing the VP44 when I already had it removed but that will be for another day. I've dumped enough $$ into this rig already time for it to run hopefully!

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6 minutes ago, jtrakel said:

 

Yeah I'm going to give it some more tomorrow in hopes I did give it enough time to clear out the air, with the way this truck has been thus far I'm nervous about not replacing the VP44 when I already had it removed but that will be for another day. I've dumped enough $$ into this rig already time for it to run hopefully!

If the VP is not giving you trouble l would not have replaced it.

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If you have the relay wired with the ECM triggering it then you can get the fuel pump to run without bumping the ignition/starter.   You can remove the relay and put a jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87 in the plug;  as long as that jumper wire is there the fuel pump will run.

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2 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

If you have the relay wired with the ECM triggering it then you can get the fuel pump to run without bumping the ignition/starter.   You can remove the relay and put a jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87 in the plug;  as long as that jumper wire is there the fuel pump will run.

 

Thanks @IBMobile you have been a tremendous help today along with everyone else!! Random question, will fuel make it up to the fuel rail without the truck turning over? If I just have the pump running like you just described should I see fuel at the rail with the lines cracked open?

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Yes, I've done it to bleed the system when MoparMan and I replaced the injection pump, when I've replaced fuel filters, and when replacing injectors. 

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Got the truck running this morning after letting the pump run some more. As I was doing a leak check I noticed two different areas are leaking oil. 
 

first is right next to the VP44 where I grounded the wires for the W-T mod. I used a red lead to show, it’s bubbling out of the grey RTV looking area. Should I just reseal this area or do you think it calls for removing the front half of the cover and replacing gaskets? 😭1BB7CF92-4D7B-45BF-AFF5-8959DA705965.jpeg.3e1da44f18e88d9f82528642f56ce7cf.jpeg

 

next leak is coming from the OEM fuel pump location where I installed the delete plate, it has a gasket on it but it’s definitely leaking from that spot maybe some RTV?

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