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So I have finally got my truck up and running after an extensive amount of maintenance that needed to be completed as the previous owner neglected the heck out of this poor girl. While everything was being worked on I went ahead and did the full W-T wiring modification and the alternator PCM protection as well that @Mopar1973Man has been so awesome at spreading around to everyone. I did not check the AC volts prior to the maintenance and W-T mod.


I went ahead and took a video of my results while the truck was running, unless i'm doing something wrong or have the incorrect setting my alternator is beyond BAD reading in at 1.04 AC volts which hopefully is the smoking gun for many of my electrical issues with the truck. I will provide a list of everything done to the truck recently for essay. Should I just scrap this alternator right now and get a new one?


I see Nations is a well regarded brand or maybe the Mean Green alternator on @dieselautopower site and do I need to be concerned with anything else that may be toast because of these readings (ECU, PCM etc.). I've spared no expense and thrown the everything minus the kitchen sink at this truck and want it to finally be reliable.


The only code I have is the P1693 which I understand simply states the ECM or PCM whichever is not reporting has an issue however I literally cannot find any other codes currently using the OBDLink MX+ on my iPhone XR with the provided app from the Company "OBDLink". Am I doing something wrong with my reader to not see anything else except the P1693?


* I posted a video before with the truck at idle having major issues and will post again. It does it while driving as well and typically the issue presents itself once the truck has warmed up and been running for 20-30 minutes. I am not able to get into the throttle at all or push through the issue because the truck dies on me while driving, sometimes when it's warmed up it will "stutter" if I rev the motor. Fuel pressure since I just installed the gauge and LP is right around 18-20psi at idle (sensor roughly 2ft from VP44). 




Work done in the last 2 weeks:

REMOVED: Legacy quadzilla XZT, BD TQloc, AND A BD APPS noise filter



- W-T mod (with 150 Amp inline fuse for the alt)

- Alt/PCM protection w/appropriate inline fuse

- New MAP sensor, oil pressure sensor, IAT sensor, and Oil pressure sensor

- Installed ISSpro fuel press, EGT, boost, and trans temp

- FASS 165GPH LP used @IBMobile method of wiring the relay and it's awesome! (deleted factory block LP and filter may install later)

- Crazy Carls BHAF

- Quad Adrenaline (havent installed until I figure out electrical issues) 

- Timbo APPS

- Rebuilt Vacuum pump

- Replaced tappet oil gasket

- Replaced front timing cover

- Cam shaft front seal

- Coolant flush, thermometer and water pump

- Complete heater grid delete



Next up is replacing the oil pan gasket, it's still leaking and the previous owner said he just did it but I don't believe him. Hopefully this ends my oil leak issues


Edited by jtrakel
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A new alternator is what's needed with A/C volts that high. Many times just changing out the Diode bridge will correct that, and the heavy duty diode bridge is available thru our forum store. Since you don't need grid heaters where you live, I would just go for a new stock size alternator if you can get brand a new unit, not rebuilt. The level of A/C noise you are seeing, especially after doing the W-T modifications, is the highest I have ever seen. It may be doing damage to the more sensitive electronics. 


You say after it is warmed that it stutters and shuts down...... have you tried to see if you can get it to go away by pouring cool water over the PCB on top of the injection pump? Sometimes that is a clue of what's going on. Otherwise I hope it is just a matter of air getting in the fuel lines somewhere.


I often wonder about a clogged tank vent (very rare but heard of) that creates vacuum in the fuel tank and suddenly causes air to be sucked in the fuel supply while running. I'm not sure if the fuel pressure gauge would be able to show split second drop in pressure when / if this happens. Slim chance, but try running with the fuel cap loose for a difference.


I like your ambition getting your truck back in shape. It is very great to hear about your relentless effort.

Edited by JAG1
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After doing the W-T ground wire mod all alternator problems stopped. No longer need a upgraded alternator like Nations or Mean Green. Now my ND alternator is completely noise free and handles all the electrical requirement without any issues. Alternator failures stop completely. 


The biggest thing is the charge lead is the farthest from the ECM, and VP44. Then these grounds are now cut about 4 feet shorter and travel away from the alternator. 


No need for upgraded alternator. 


Biggest thing is taking a Quadzilla and set the warm up temp to about 160 to 170*F and then set the delay for about 30 second for high idle. Now when you start the alternator is kept up on high idle and grid heater load doesn't cause damage because the engine RPM's are up and the alternator can hold the electrical load better and then the fan in the alternator can keep the diodes and windings cooler!

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Quadzilla or my high idle kit are the easiest. You could measure a stick and use a power seat to press the throttle. 

13 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

is there a way to get high idle from the cruise control like in a semi truck


No. There is no option for this...

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I went ahead and replaced the Alternator anyways with a Nations for future power requirements if I so choose. My Quad showed up today with the Iquad and I got everything hooked up but it seems like the quad keeps disconnecting from the truck. My iphone will stay connected to the iquad but I'm not able to adjust anything within the app.


I went ahead and purchased a few tunes from the store here just to ensure I don't mess anything up and it will load a tune but I'm not able to add any type of gauges/monitors. if I close out the app and open back up it acts like there is nothing talking to the truck at all, starting to wonder if my ECM is bad and I can't seem to find anything on how to test it on truck. The "wait to start" light appears and goes out like it should when key is on etc.


If I procure a new ECM is it simply plug and play or do I have to take it somewhere so it will work with the truck.?


Truck runs and the A/C noise is down to nothing at this point, I have not let the truck run long enough to see if the stutter/rough idle shows up i'm to worried about be stranded on the side of the road so that will have to wait till this weekend. Also my blower motor has completely stopped working, it was just replaced last week and I replaced the ignition switch on the column as i've read that causes issue. 20 amp fuse in the truck is good and swapped a relay in the main PDC as well with no luck. This truck is going to be the end of me! 

Edited by jtrakel
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Call Quadzilla for troubleshooting. The last time YEARS ago there was a wiring issue in the loom. More so for the CANBus connector. It will produce the same kind of issue. It will hook to the module head display no data nad nothing will adjust.

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