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I've read through here a bit but nobody seems to have my issue. When I turn sharp not full lock trying tj say back out of tight parking lot spaces whenever I change wheel direction or change from drive to reverse then roll a little or give it gas I get a hefty clunk up front. I've had it for 2 years and I've seen some other dodge 2nd gen 1 tons do it but I've seen some not do it so I'm not thinking it's normal but I've tried everything I can think of. 

 

It's a 2wd. I had to replace everything from frame out due to RF having been in an accident before so alignment couldn't be brought into spec. All moog stuff, I've got new upper and Lower arms, new inner and outer tie rods and sleeves, new shocks and springs, new sway bar links as well as new idler and pitman arms. It seems to be I can feel it in my left foot I. The floor. Like something is shifting when the vehicle changes gears and rolls but everything is new. Cab bushings LOOK ok from what I can see

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The first of your description sounds like suspension problem with the wheel turning. The second where you say it clunks swapping drive to reverse or the other way around sounds like a drive line issue, u joints. So I am not sure what your issue is. Could be both. Get some one to help you. Crank it up and get under the front end and have them turn the wheel back a forth and see if any thing is loose. The same for the drive line. Make sure it is someone you can trust not run over arse in the process.

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It's not when you shift like u joints but after changing to reverse and you start rolling while turned hard you get a loud pop just once. Change to drive and start rolling a foot or 2 and it'll do it again. I had wife power brake and roll a little tried not to run my *** over or take a bath to the face from the air coming out the crank case vent tube on the driver side and we can get it to do it but it can be felt in every component from tie rod bar to control arms not just one area

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If it was 4wd I'd have said it has to be a drive shaft joint (not sure what you guys call that) or upper/lower ball joint

2wd it's either of these.....

upper/lower control arms... or ball joints on these  or mounting bolts/bushes to frame on these

 

I read that you changed most parts.... are the tapers seated ok as in they were all the right taper angle ??

 

Here in the UK our vehicle test stations have pads that you drive onto, these pads are then moved side to side and front to back, tests all components to death and this will and does find any slack in anything

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I'm not sure what you mean by taper. I've gone back over everything and double checked all bolt tightness. Like I said it was doing it before the replacement of parts. They had to be replaced to get it into spec after the wreck. I was just hoping the pop would be corrected too. Driving it this week it seems to have become more focused on steering. It'll do it sometimes twice when turning from side to side while the truck isn't rolling but in gear on the brakes

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Posted (edited)
24 minutes ago, Recian426 said:

I'm not sure what you mean by taper

all the ball joints have a tapered angle which is what keeps them tight, my 3500 had a VERY bad worn taper on the right side hub to steering linkage

Turning side to side not moving could be track bar or here in the UK it is called a panhard rod

Edited by wil440
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Thats what I thought you meant but I wasn't sure. On 2wd there's 2 sets of tie rods with sleeves attached to a bar that's hooked to idler and pitman arm and that whole thing goes side to side 

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it's close to 20 years since I had a 86 USA air force 2wd boat, neatly divided into 3 bed, cab, and bonnet  so I'm a little hazy on how it all is on a 2wd 

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Power braking doesn't really make a difference but it does have to be in gear foot on brakes not moving but turning from left to right or vice versa in tight spaces. Once it pops once ( or twice back to back) it won't pop again no matter how many times you turn the wheel until you change gears, roll a little then turn hard again. Thinking about it I'm leaning toward wheel bearings like one person mentioned. Thinking about it i do occasionally going over rough roads get a sound like my lugnut are loose or sway bar links aren't tight. a metallic clanky noise. It's the only thing I have touched yet. Haven't even taken them apart. They're tight when you check them unloaded 

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A trick i learned on these new packaged wheel bearings.....  jack the car up and spin the wheel.  Then loosen the nut that is setting the pre-load on the package bearing.  now spin the wheel again.   More than once when chasing a wheel bearing, the minute you spin the wheel when you just lifted it off the ground, it feels fine, but when you loosen the pre-load, it felt like snot.  replace that bearing and its a happy sunny day!  

 

GL HTH
Hag

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14 minutes ago, Haggar said:

A trick i learned on these new packaged wheel bearings.....  jack the car up and spin the wheel.  Then loosen the nut that is setting the pre-load on the package bearing.  now spin the wheel again.   More than once when chasing a wheel bearing, the minute you spin the wheel when you just lifted it off the ground, it feels fine, but when you loosen the pre-load, it felt like snot.  replace that bearing and its a happy sunny day!  

 

GL HTH
Hag

 

 

I've run into the same thing on other vehicles before

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