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First off since my passenger light got smashed I ordered new housings(see pic) and hated the halogen bulbs they were crap. Decided to upgraded to LED Conversion (see pic). Just looked at a  couple old posts saying the LED lights in the housings are super bright and are a issue for oncoming drivers. If this is true I dont mind taking a loss of the 130 bucks if I cant send these back for lights that's are safer for other drivers and still bright enough for me. Also will be replacing brakes and rotors soon what brand or brakes and rotors are everyone running. I tow alot and need good brakes. Looking for suggestions on all thanks.

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1 hour ago, Royal Squire said:

If you tow and want your brakes to last better get an exhaust brake. 

 

I second that.  @1369x, your signature shows that you have a NV5600 transmission - you couldn't have a better setup for an exhaust brake.  I also tow and have an exhaust brake to use with my NV5600 transmission.  My first set of front brake pads lasted for over 215,000 miles.  I am still on my second set at 340,000 miles.  I am also on my original front brake calipers and front wheel bearings.  I attribute the long life of the wheel bearings is due to lack of heat generated by the front brakes because the exhaust brake is doing most of the work to slow the truck and trailer.

 

- John

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Exhayst brake is yhe way to go.

 

The LED bulbs in the stock style houseing are most likely going to piss off everyone coming at you. I have some in aftermarket housings that are working pretty well. Clear lenses with much less reflector behind them. Another member here tried the same thing with a similar lense and different bulbs abd it did not work. Not all lenses or bulbs are the same.

 Put them in turn them on and walk about 75 feet in front of the truck and look at them. If they are blinding you they will blind everone else.

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I would of gone with clear lens on the headlights. 

 

I did the crystal clear lens on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and then added Super Bright LED headlights in the lens. Now those required a ton of readjustment of the beams to make them work and keep from blinding on coming traffic. Make sure to double check your aim afterwards. 

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8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I would of gone with clear lens on the headlights. 

 

I did the crystal clear lens on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and then added Super Bright LED headlights in the lens. Now those required a ton of readjustment of the beams to make them work and keep from blinding on coming traffic. Make sure to double check your aim afterwards. 

You got a link for yours or similar option? Called the led place and they said they would give me a store credit but not a refund go figure.

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I have the Retro Shop projectors, as per the reviews from this website. They produce AWESOME light output. So good that I don’t need fog lights. Keep in mind, there are ZERO reflectors marking the lanes in Germany. There was a downside. Mine were waaaaaaaaay far out of adjustment. With them adjusted all the way up, the light was only going 30-40 feet in front of my truck. I had to find/buy longer Bolts and put 1/2” spacers on the bottom mounts to get them where they were effective. But that broke the tabs. Now they work great, but I have a huge gap between the housing and the fender. The guy I ordered them from said this is normal.

I have a set of Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors on the front, and regular old Wagner shoes on the back. Replacing the rubber lines all around made a big difference. My ratty old truck stops really good for what it is. My trailer brakes work pretty good too... I only tow about 6-7k occasionally.

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i have the nv5600 as well and i rarely use brakes aside to come to a complete stop. up in colorado coming down from the steep miles long grades on I70, i wouldnt use brakes at all and just keep the exhaust on while cruise control on and it would modulate itself no problem at whatever speed i set. at 216,000 miles im still on original front rotors and calipers, pads i replaced once but rust got the brake lines and im overhauling the brake system and replacing hubs (one cheepo failed)

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On 5/17/2020 at 3:38 AM, dirtywhiteboy40219 said:

I had to find/buy longer Bolts and put 1/2” spacers on the bottom mounts to get them where they were effective.

There is a starwheel on bottom oh housings, designed to be used with phillips screwdriver, usually you can get enough adjustment that way. Unless it was assembled that far off center. I did my own retrofit and must not of trimed off enough from the shrouds, so when trying to adjust the hit the housing and wouldn't move, I used heat on the bottom of husing and got the plastic to where It was pliable, then I could adjust them more.

As for the gap between the fender and the housing I used some black silicone that comes in big tubes at hardware store, if you do a good job you can make it look nice.

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3 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

Do the LED'S cut through the rain well?

 

LED headlights NO. I've got those on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500.

 

PIAA 530  LED Driving lights YES. These are only like 15w total but are actually brighter than my 35w Morimoto HID's.

 

5 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

The KC's I had on my Z71 cut through just about anything.

Except for the fly stone that blows out the glass. I've had a set of KC's in the past and only last 9 months first winter a passing truck blew the glass lens out. 

 

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Posted (edited)

Quality Optics?

 

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Clear lens and LED headlights. Lots of scatter and still bright but not quality... This truck bare can light up the lane in front of me. No coverage of the left side at all. Poor coverage of the ditch on the right. High beams barely make vertically about 8 feet up. Narrow beam path. 

 

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Now the Quality Optics and superb pattern and more lighting... 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Morimoto D2S and PIAA 530 Driving lights. Morimoto's are only 35w woth of light but cast a window of light vertically over 50 feet tall and over 50 feet wide on the highway. Consistent pattern and even coverage. Even the PIAAs at mere 15w are even brighter than the Morimotos and cast a bright path in heavy snow and rain no issue. The only problem is the dead cold of winter minus temps it will snow over both the HID's and LED's (highlights or driving lights). Only Halogen is strong enough. 

DSCF4683.JPG

 

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Oh yeah brakes...

Just install a exhaust brake. 412k miles total now doing brake pad changed at 200k miles on the last set of pads. Don't bothe with 3rd Gen rotors and calipers the exhaust brake will pull you down better without any wear on your service brakes. 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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I was really surprised that my LED's in the cheap housings l bought worked as well as they do. I think I got very lucky with the bulbs and the housing and hiton the right combination with them.

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On 5/20/2020 at 2:17 PM, Dieselfuture said:

There is a starwheel on bottom oh housings, designed to be used with phillips screwdriver, usually you can get enough adjustment that way. Unless it was assembled that far off center. I did my own retrofit and must not of trimed off enough from the shrouds, so when trying to adjust the hit the housing and wouldn't move, I used heat on the bottom of husing and got the plastic to where It was pliable, then I could adjust them more.

As for the gap between the fender and the housing I used some black silicone that comes in big tubes at hardware store, if you do a good job you can make it look nice.

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I might try the silicone trick. Thanks!

then again I might sell the truck... Transmission.? I found an 82,000 original mile 12v NV4500 Dually.

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