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Posted (edited)

Hello

 

I know it's been brought up countless times, but I have a few questions regardless. I'm looking to give my truck a little more pep in her step with either some 100hp or even 120s. I was set on 100s until I messaged Chris at Ducky about some new ones. He suggested 120hp VCOs. And he was the only one I've talked to that didn't suggest a SAC. So i might be leaning towards 120s now. 

 

So now on to the turbo. I'm looking for something that will spool quicker than my hx40 (and hopefully keep the EGTs a little lower) I was looking at a Super B but I think I might want something different. Any one have any suggestions on this matter with the supporting mods I have in my signature? I should state that I will be towing 6-7 times a year. The main style of driving it will see will be just taking it on trips and moreso having fun with it.

 

Last one is should I Stud it. I'm sure the term "better safe than sorry" applies here. Problem is I really don't want to pull the head at this time so I was thinking of doing Glaciers stud install with the head still on there. Any advice would be appreciated

 

Oh and she's a 53 btw. I'm not really worried since I do take care of the heating up and cooling down cycles. I figure I'll send it until it cracks, and then it'll give me an excuse to build a block on the stand haha.

 

Thank you!

 

Kevin

Edited by Rather Be Wheeling

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I am not much help over all but as far as studs go ARP can be installed without removing the head. No expert but I have not heard of any that cannot installed with out removing the head.

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Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, dripley said:

I am not much help over all but as far as studs go ARP can be installed without removing the head. No expert but I have not heard of any that cannot installed with out removing the head.

 

That's what I'm thinking as well. I've read up about guys popping them after doing studs with the head still on, but I've heard Glaciers process is the way to go. I figure do them that way and then in like maybe 1000 miles re check the torque

Edited by Rather Be Wheeling

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If the head seal is still on leave it.  It is hard to beat a factory seal, just install the studs 1 at a time. Follow the arp directions.

 

 

As for injectors 7 x .010'sand a 62/68/12 is a proven awesome setup.

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

If the head seal is still on leave it.  It is hard to beat a factory seal, just install the studs 1 at a time. Follow the arp directions.

 

 

As for injectors 7 x .010'sand a 62/68/12 is a proven awesome setup

 

Hmmmmmm 150s? I would love to have those. Those wouldn't hurt anything going bigger like that? 

Edited by Rather Be Wheeling

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Posted (edited)

So it's seems like the 150s may be the winner. Any brand preference? DAP? Ducky? etc

 

And SAC or VCOs? I've heard SACs are the way to go...

Edited by Rather Be Wheeling

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Dfi and dap are both good guys.  Nothing bad to say about either.

 

I prfer vco simply because they came from the factory that way.

 

 

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Ahhh gotcha. I'll look into the VCOs.

 

Any insight of what brand turbo? Sorry for all the questions. I'm used to squirrel power Toyota engines. But trying to learn as I go along! Haha

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4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm close with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar and HX35/40 (60/60/12) turbo and bit of Quadzilla tuning. Easy 20 to 21 MPG.

 

Sorry but what does it mean when you say 320 bar?

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5 hours ago, Rather Be Wheeling said:

Ahhh gotcha. I'll look into the VCOs.

 

Any insight of what brand turbo? Sorry for all the questions. I'm used to squirrel power Toyota engines. But trying to learn as I go along! Haha

Borg Warner SXE362 is the best available IMO.  Bar is short for barometric pressure or atmospheric pressure which is approximately 14.5lbs.  So 320 bar means 320x14.5lbs.

 

I installed my studs one at a time without removing the head.  I followed the torque sequence order removing one head bolt and then replacing it with a stud and nut and torqued to 100 ft.lbs...then move to the next one and do the same thing.  Repeat until you've replaced them all.  Then following the torque sequence again retorque up to desired final torque in 20lb increments.  As mentioned I believe the ARP instructions explain this procedure.

 

I run 7x.010's with a 62 and it's a hell of an increase in power over what you got now...especially if you have the electronics to go along with it. 

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They are right...

 

When I did my head stud you have to lay the head on the block and then install the studs which I'm running ARP 425 studs. Then there is one long exhaust side stud might not fit. Take a 2x6 and jack up the cab at the cowl slowly. You can lift almost a full 1/2 inch and the stud will fall into its hole no problem. No need to drill the cowl or cutting holes or beat dents in the body work. 

 

I went with the HX35/40 (60/60/12) for two reason the price was good (CSM gave me the turbo) then rear of the turbo would except my Jacobs Exhaust brake. I got a upgrade somewhat but kept my 1,100 dollar exhaust brake. 

 

Injectors I've played from stock to RV275's, +50HP, +75HP, and now 150HP. (current)

 

Tuners I've played with Smarty, Edge Products (Juice and Edge), now Quadzilla (best option).

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I've got ducky 7x009 sacs. They've got around 100k on them maybe more. I feel they've done pretty good. Great customer service from ducky to.

 

I'll get on the boat and try 150s maybe 175 just to be different  62 65 14 Borg feed them.

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You have a Quadzilla already. I’d definitely do the 7x.10’s minimum. You’ll work the VP less at lower boost pressure and with no smoke. My truck runs pretty dam good loaded and unloaded! Always puts a smile on my face. As far as studs go ya you can change them out one at a time. Just don’t forget to readjust your valves after. 

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Posted (edited)

 

 

Thanks everyone for the help! I ended up taking y'alls advice and calling up DAP. Talked to Lenny there and he set me up with what I needed. Got hooked up with 150s, 62/68/12, studs, pushrods, springs and a new downpipe. Hurt the wallet but I'm excited for the power increase!

 

 

On 6/15/2020 at 6:39 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

They are right...

 

When I did my head stud you have to lay the head on the block and then install the studs which I'm running ARP 425 studs. Then there is one long exhaust side stud might not fit. Take a 2x6 and jack up the cab at the cowl slowly. You can lift almost a full 1/2 inch and the stud will fall into its hole no problem. No need to drill the cowl or cutting holes or beat dents in the body work. 

 

 

Thank you for this information! I'll definitely do this method 👍

Edited by Rather Be Wheeling

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32 minutes ago, Rather Be Wheeling said:

Thanks everyone for the help! I ended up taking y'alls advice and calling up DAP. Talked to Lenny there and he set me up with what I needed. Got hooked up with 150s, 62/68/12, studs, pushrods, springs and a new downpipe. Hurt the wallet but I'm excited for the power increase!

Nice!  You'll be smiling big when you feel the results.  You definitely could have saved your wallet some pain by passing on the springs and pushrods but no big deal.  Only really necessary if you are planning to turn high rpms (3500+), putting in a high lift cam or pushing some serious boost (60+).  But at least you'll be ready to do all those things one day. :thumbup2:

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I feel like a kid at Christmas haha. As soon as I get back from Vegas I'm putting it all on and going to buy one of the tunes on this website to start playing around with it! Thanks again everyone!

15931228362128176080387049726270.jpg

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1 minute ago, Rather Be Wheeling said:

I feel like a kid at Christmas haha. As soon as I get back from Vegas I'm putting it all on and going to buy one of the tunes on this website to start playing around with it! Thanks again everyone!

15931228362128176080387049726270.jpg

Niiiiiiice!  Hope you win enough in Vegas to replenish what that cost and maybe a little more for another turbo! :thumbup2:

 

Let us know how it all works for when you get it all in. 

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