Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Water leak after 24 valve rebuild


Recommended Posts

Throw the silicone and copper spray in the garbage can and almost all your head aches will be cured......Put the gaskets on dry and clean and they will seal. If they needed something else to help them seal they would come with it already infused into the gasket.

Well i used a little sealant when i rebuilt my engine at 450k not a leak yet at 768k,guess i really messed something up!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i used a little sealant when i rebuilt my engine at 450k not a leak yet at 768k,guess i really messed something up!

I have seen 2 engines off the top of my head that failed due to RTV. 1 had so much rtv inside the engine is completely plugged the oil pickup screen, the other was used in place of a gasket on an oil cooler which you can imagine what happened. RTV doesn't hold pressure. lost all the oil and spun some main and rod bearings. Both do it yourself mistakes that could have been prevented with proper cleaning and gaskets. Where, what type, and how much sealant is the thing that most people don't have a clue on. In most cases it is best to leave it out of the equasion unless there is a need for a specific product in an area. Most leaks are caused by a dirty uneven surface and improper torques which cause warping ect. I do this for a living, these little 5.9 engines are like a lawn mower engine to most as I work on half million dollar v12 and v16 diesel engines so I know a wee bit about how critical leak free needs to be as "MSHA" Mine safety and health administration Can slap extremely high fines on companies for leaks on equipment.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't use RTV on either gasket. After we took the first one off we could see where it failed. It was fiber and the second one is metal. It just seeped a little and only left a small puddle once. I don't know why I'm havign such a problem and not aware of a particular torque sequence.

Generally, you tighten the bolts in the center and work your way out. So get them all a little tight, then tighten the top middle then bottom middle, then top left of middle then bottom right of middle... Just keep going top to bottom and left and right. Its the same way on things as thin as oil pans or as thick as the cylinder head.

Here is an oil pan example so you see what I mean.

Posted Image

As for gaskets with or without RTV, I think the application has a lot to do with it. Oil pans are warped a lot of times in between bolts so I always get some "The Right Stuff" and put thin coat on both sides of the gasket. As for the oil cooler, it is thicker so I don't think would need any kind of sealant.

That's my :2cents: A *thin* coat of RTV like Blueox01 said couldn't hurt, but I think making sure the mating surfaces are perfect would allow for just the gasket without RTV. Did it leak out of the fiber or metal gasket?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...