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I've decided to start a thread specifically for detailing the path to restoring the truck back to proper, full functioning condition. 

 

I replaced the radiator with a fully aluminum one that's welded and brazed. Ebay special, $225 shipped. Actually looks to be quite nice. Even has a proper threaded bung for the petcock.

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I also started work on the rear axle. All four bearings show pitting and damage. I found that both seals have been replaced before and the surfaces are both shot. They had been replaced with speedi sleeves and they were both worn.

 

Drivers side, also with shot wheel cylinder.

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Pass side. 

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Driver side

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Pass side

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One of the bolts that holds the axle shaft in simply snapped off.... I suspect it was over torqued the last time these were apart. Luckily, it backed right out with no fuss.

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One of the speedi sleeves.....

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Can anyone confirm that the speedi sleeve P# is 99287 for the D80?

 

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I've decided to start a thread specifically for detailing the path to restoring the truck back to proper, full functioning condition.    I replaced the radiator with a fully aluminum one tha

The truck on the left is wishing it had cummins in it.

Well, the two studs that go into the rubber bits that go into the core support were about 3/8ths of an inch too wide, so I cut a bit of the rubber to make it work. The cap isn't the greatest, and it d

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Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

Let us know how the radiator works out

Well, the two studs that go into the rubber bits that go into the core support were about 3/8ths of an inch too wide, so I cut a bit of the rubber to make it work. The cap isn't the greatest, and it doesn't have the two little tabs that the fan shroud goes into on the lower part. As far as craftsmanship, it looks fairly decent besides the those little niggles. It isn't a Mishimoto(I think that's the company that makes the $700 one), but it looks perfectly acceptable, considering the price. It does have the studs that the battery cable screw onto. 

 

I'll post back once it has a few miles on it.

Edited by That Guy
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17 hours ago, That Guy said:

Well, the two studs that go into the rubber bits that go into the core support were about 3/8ths of an inch too wide, so I cut a bit of the rubber to make it work. The cap isn't the greatest, and it doesn't have the two little tabs that the fan shroud goes into on the lower part. As far as craftsmanship, it looks fairly decent besides the those little niggles. It isn't a Mishimoto(I think that's the company that makes the $700 one), but it looks perfectly acceptable, considering the price. It does have the studs that the battery cable screw onto. 

 

I'll post back once it has a few miles on it.

 

Is that a three core? I can't quite tell by the picture. How thick is the total core width?

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Posted (edited)

Appears to be factory width, I'll measure tomorrow, but, more than 2, less than 3 inches. It is a 3 core.

 

Measured..... It is 2 1/16" thich. 

 

A worse picture, can see the three cores.....IMG_20200809_121014.jpg.1b06a746774b76f65f7cb5c47568ae14.jpg

Edited by That Guy
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#99287 is what I used on a 2001 D80 with discs.  You will need to modify the driver to install it -- cut a center hole to clear the spindle and drive with length of hollow tube.  You might also check with local axle/truck repair and see if they do weld fill and remachining of spindle seal surfaces (portable lathe mounts to spindle and machines surface) if it is very worn (a speedi sleeve can only repair so much).  Also cover the seal area with gray or black gasket maker before you set the sleeve (fills void for a better bearing surface support and stops back leaks).  

 

Gotta love those "oil cooled" brake shoes!

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Today, picked up my tires that a friend gave me, Milestar Patagonia M/T's in the 285/75/16 variety, he apparently wants to get rid of them because he wants to put 20's on his jeep...... Got one of the hubs together and brake assembled. Used dry ice to shrink the axle, slid right on. Spent too much time driving around to get much done. I did cut a hole in the installation cup for the sleeve. I'm almost certain that the wheel seals went out because the spindle nut wasn't torqued correctly and came loose and allowed the hub enough vertical play to carve the grooves. I saw no wear in the bearing, only minor pitting and a bit of a matte finish on some of the races.  

 

 

This truck is anything but cheap..... But, it should be in tip top shape once its done. Makes me wonder how many of those "mint" condition trucks going for $30,000 have drivetrain issues.

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Was playing with the he351ve, the vanes have a sticky spot in the very middle of the range. I suspect that some of the vanes have somehow bent just a bit. Not sure how, but it moves free when the cartridge is out. I haven't had it apart since 2014, and it worked fine then. 

 

Anyhow, set it in the corner and bolted the hx35w back on. Had to cut the bolts to the adapter out to get them to come out. If I decide to use it again, I think I'll just get a manifold with a T4 flange (T4i?). 

 

Going to work on ball joints this weekend.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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So, this has happened about 4 times now. Took the truck for a little test ride about 1/8 mile down the road and back. Sitting in the driveway, and all of a sudden the truck gets louder. The first time, the whole muffler just dropped out where I parked. Second time, I just came disconnected from the front. Third time it came out like this. I got it back in, drove through gate to go to the pasture, and the tail section fell out of the back. 

 

This all started because I put the factory turbo/dp back in and it changed the position of the pipe about 4 inches forward. I think I'll be visiting a truck shop and seeing if they have any 4" straight sections for a decent price here soon. 

 

As a side note, I have maybe 2 hours of just putting around the pasture in the heat of the day and the A/C is fabulous. I'm not having the best of luck getting myself motivated to do ball joints. It needs them, but it hasn't been re registered yet so it's not like I'm taking loads down the highway just yet.

 

 

 

Also from about 2 months ago, I pressure washed the carpet when I replaced the dash. It was very nasty.

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And the dash itself. I didn't realize at the time that there was a light and dark grey option, but having a dash that isn't disintegrating more than makes up for it. 

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3 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

I thought about pulling my carpet out and pressure washing it  but it has a hole next to the throttle pedal. Probably just buy a new one. Once it cools off over here. 

 

I was considering that honestly, but it cleaned up enough for me not to care. 

 

The diesels carpet is (was? maybe daimler changed that) different than the gas. I forget specifically. Maybe it's the jute, or the rubber, or maybe the thickness of said materials? 

 

Be aware before buying.

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Used the truck for actual work today. The heat index was 108* and it was obscenely humid, it kept my nice and cool when I wasn't on the roof. The exhaust has stayed on for now as well. 


 Cleaned up a bit from Laura and repaired the barn roof where it tried to peel it off like a tuna can. 

 

Old roof timbers in the bed.

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Woke up about 7 in the morning, looked out the window and the roof was in the process of rolling off. The winds were only about 30mph at the time with gusts of 50. Glad I did..... about 20 minutes after I finished,  wind picked up to about 60 sustained, and 75+ gusts. I put the bucket of the tractor, and some heavy metal pieces, to keep it from doing the other 70 feet of the barn. 

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The barn is very much pieced together and is well over twice my age. I'm not too worried about the holes in the tin, so long as it stays in place. Nothing under that part that can't handle some water.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Decided to start moving panels over this weeked. 

 

I also figured that I would primmer the rust spots on the hoof and driver side fender from the doner. I went ahead and shot clear coat (all rattle can stuff) over the hood and where the clear is peeling off of the other body panels. I figure that when I go back and have a half decent paint job done, the clear and primmer will at least preserve it where it is for the time being rather than it continue to get worse.

 

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Battery acid really did a number on this one. I'm also not sure what that black and green discoloration is, I pressure washed it and it wasn't doing anything. I just wont worry about that for the time being.

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Seems like a good stopping point for the night. Mosquitoes were threatening to carry me away. 

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Posted (edited)

Got doors swapped, got the body panels aligned to some degree. Need to weld on the doors and figure out how the infinity stereo wiring works.

 

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Neighbor of mine, wants to sell me some of his old mopar stuff. He has 3 Little Red Expresses 2 C bodys, 2 B bodys, and 3 Dakota's, 1 Shelby, 2 Convertible, and a Orange 2004 Hemi GTX 1500 w/ 10k miles that still has new car smell. There is no telling what all else. Spent nearly two hours talking with him so I didn't get as much done on the truck, but I might get some cool stuff out of it.

He's a retired geologist for Exxon. Diabetes is taking his legs.

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Edited by That Guy
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