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Rogan

About to tackle the front steering/suspension components...

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I found the MOOG track bar on rockauto for 115$, and the MOOG LH-ITRE for about 80-ish (iirc). I've already replaced the RH-ITRE (at pitman) with a MOOG unit.My contemplation, at the moment, is U/L balljoints.. I'm quite mechanically inclined, but haven't messed with ball-joints on a Dana60, or an Dana in quite some time. are there any tricks or words-of-wisdom I can get from you guys, concerning the ball-joint replacement work? At the same time, I'll be installing my leveling kit..

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are both uppers and lowers 'press-in' style?Any advantage to going with adjustable or offset ones, vs. stock style?

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Is this a 2nd or 3rd generation truck???? Fill out your signature so we know what you've got. If it's a 2nd gen, I'll move this to the proper forum for more exposure.

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CRAP! sorry, didn't notice this was CR are. It's a 2gen. I'll update the sig, as well.Thanks.sidenote: I did replace my trackbar with a MOOG unit, $115. I was very surprised how much more 'well-built' and heavier the replacement one was, over the OE piece.

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I recently had to replace almost everything in the front end of my truck.Are you doing any kind of front end lifting or overall suspension lifts? If yes then i strongly recommend getting an adjustable track bar.And, not a stock style adjustable bar.Doing this job without an impact wrench could be very difficult also. I did a lot of the work without any airtools but when it comes to pressing the old BJs in and out, you will need it. Lots and lots of penetrating lube and anti seize will do good for this job. I used a really good, online, step by step set of directions. I tried locating it, with no luck. I will keep looking for you.Also, you can get a tool loan from Advanced Auto or other autoparts shops. They lend it out for long as you need it, with nothing but a deposit on the tool. You may need to get a little creative when repressing the new BJs in. schedule 40 pipe works well for making custom presses.

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awesome, thank you.

--- Update to the previous post...

So, today, I did the R/I tie-rod, and the 2" leveling kit. Found out that my LF Upper ball joint is all but toast, so that'll need fixed ASAP.. :cry:

The Steering damper just absolutely would not come out of the RFI tie rod. I tried everything, including heat.. So I guess I'll just buy a new one.. :spend:

After the 2" leveling kit, my 295-75s clear the fenders and everything. It's nice to have total steering lock-to-lock back :thumb1:

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I agree a 3rd gen adjustable track bar would be a good thing to have. But they aren't cheap that's for sure!!! I'm wanting one sometime down the road when I get the money and decide to not spend it on fun parts!!:lmao2:

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Any advantage to going with adjustable or offset ones, vs. stock style?

I have them & they are a pita to get someone to set them correctly. Only buy adjustable ball joints if you can't get the camber in specs OR if you have another reason to set camber different from normal.

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yeah, I've decided to just go with OE-spec MOOG joints... Hopefully, it'll get done this week.

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Things I have learned.

1) Make sure you have the right parts before you leave the parts store and that all the clips, dust shields and fittings are in the both boxes.

2) When changing ball joints if the hubs were never changed before. Plan on getting U-joints, Hubs and upper and lower ball joints, Dust shield. Look at your CAD fork too you may need a new one. How are your rotors and pads?

i put Anti-seize on the back of the new hubs too

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