Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We can see you are lurking about reading the forums and article databases. We happen to be one of the most friendliest Cummins support website on the planet. Come on and register and grab a inexpensive subscription plan. With that you can unlock even more for you. Technical support either by public forum, private support ticket, and even unlock phone support by Mopar1973Man. Mopar1973Man.Com will remain FREE to read forever!

Rusted Bolt Removal Tips Needed


Recommended Posts

I'm putting this here because it doesn't apply to any limited Generation of truck.

 

Am attempting to remove the exhaust flange bolts from my turbo "about" so that I can in stall my new exhaust. 

 

I have been spraying it off and on for weeks, both cool and hot, with AeroKroil. Today I've laid into it both from above and below with my wimpy air hammer in an attempt to jostle the rust. My guess is that from the top was a mistake, as it could swell the bolt like a river. However, the other attempt from below didn't make much difference.

 

Any further in-truck ideas?

KIMG0834.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Board Of Directors

Heat with oxy-acetylene torch, red hot, but don't melt the metal.   Heat the flange area, that will expand the hole and brake the rust bound from the bolt. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you have hit it with a center punch. I drill them out just shy of the threads, then cut the end twice to make an X pattern, then tap one or two of the tabs in and it should almost fall out. 

 

I should say, if you get just shy of the threads, it may back out anyway as it has some give to it.

 

Short of that, heat and your prefered penetrant. Heat it up, spray some in, tap with hammer, work back and forth until it starts to work out. That works about half the time. 

 

Rust... well, iron oxide, is roughly 10 times the size of the base metal. So, 1mm of iron can create 10mm of rust.  It is easy for that to lock it in so tight it will never come out. At least in this case, it isn't a blind hole.

Edited by That Guy
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't have access to welding torches, mapp gas is your next best bet. Can be bought anywhere and will get the metal much hotter than propane. Like was said, get it cherry red hot and try to work the bolt while hot. Rusty bolts in cast iron are never fun. Good luck.

Also, don't try to muscle it out, finesse is needed.

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, LorenS said:

Considering how difficult it is to reach the other bolt with a torch - and my experience level with a torch - this will be an out of vehicle repair!

Loren, Unbolt from turbo, get turbo off then that pipe will drop down and you can cut the bolts in front of the flange. Then you can heat and work them loose.

Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

Dang, that rust looks brutal. Is that the 5 bolt elbow? What do the bolts look like? Is it possible to remove them instead? 

It sure is, and they are possibly even worse. I bought a used 5 bolt elbow so that if I install a different turbo I don't have to worry about this one.

 

All the turbo to manifold nuts came loose okay, so are now Anti-siezed. However, one of the oil drain line bolts is stuck, too!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Used to be able to heat up bolts and screws and blow them out with the gas axe without harming the surrounding metal.

 

I haven't don't it in long enough I wouldn't trust myself, but, you could heat the head of a bolt in the same manner and them back it out. Just don't hit the oxygen lever.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Administrator
Posted (edited)

First I would hose that with spray lube of some sort, PB blaster, etc. Typically I would reach up from the bottom with a impact gun and hit the trigger for a short burst in remove, and then rewverse and drive it back in. Then reverse and again to remove. Each time rocking the bolt back and forth brings a bit of lube to the threads. Growing slightly longer runs each pass. Might add more spray too as I go depending on the bolts. Not broke any bolts there yet. Just did a 4" inch diamond eye exhaust for local gal with a 2001 Dodge. Impact gun is a key part of success its the hammering that helps when straight pull with a ratchet will typically break the bolt. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

First I would hose that with spray lube of some sort, PB blaster, etc. Typically I would reach up from the bottom with a impact gun and hit the trigger for a short burst in remove, and then rewverse and drive it back in. Then reverse and again to remove. Each time rocking the bolt back and forth brings a bit of lube to the threads. Growing slightly longer runs each pass. Might add more spray too as I go depending on the bolts. Not broke any bolts there yet. Just did a 4" inch diamond eye exhaust for local gal with a 2001 Dodge. Impact gun is a key part of success its the hammering that helps when straight pull with a ratchet will typically break the bolt. 

I agree with the impact, it's one reason I tried the air hammer with the "Shake and Break", or whatever it's called.  It the device you put in the air hammer with a 1/2" socket drive on the other end, then can rotate with a standard wrench.  Since those are flanged bolts, I really thought it might work.  I've been spraying those bolts for weeks with Aerokroil penetrant.  However, on the outboard bolt the rust has - for lack of a better term - welded itself solid.  As in, I can't see the gap between the thread and the flange!  It's like I used rust brazing material.  Maybe if I had borrowed a bigger air hammer it would've worked better, I could only find my wimpy, rapid-firing one.

 

I think the next step is to work on the oil drain bolt so I can remove the entire turbo from the truck.  I haven't made any headway with @Threadzy's HX35 he sent to me (other than getting it all taken apart), so I need to be able to reuse the HY35 the same day it comes out of the truck.  Since I'm still stuck at home recovering/quarantining from the Commie Cold, I have time on my side but it also means I can't get any help!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You should be able to take the turbo off with the drail line attached. It slips into a little silicone hose behind the oil cooler. Should just have a little worm clamp holding it. Just take the exhaust off and pull the whole thing up. 

 

That is assuming that the hard line loos like so.

https://www.genuinedieselpart.com/products/turbo-oil-drain-tube-5-9l-24v-cummins-dodge-94-02

Link to post
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...