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JOHNFAK

My Tranny Cooler Setup

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

Hey guysok - here is my tranny cooler setup. Brief as possible with pics. Thanks to jim (SASQUACH).Built frame with screws/bolts and square metal tubing lowes.Purchased metal mesh from lowes also and cut to match inside of frame. Allow air in - no rocks.Drilled Angle Iron into frame with tapping screws.Used threaded metal with lock nuts in cross member so I could adjust and lock height of frame (and for removal if I need later).Attached Cooler Frame to Angle iron bolted on truck frame and threaded metal on crossmember skid plate.Cut COLD (INLET) lnlet line at front of truck directly out of OE cooler.Ran 1/2" tranny rubber hose to cooler now bolted in frame behind transfer case. Connected all up with tapered connections.Bought a sealant and 8AN fitting from lowes to go direct into tranny.Installed wiring from battery to switch in cab to tranny and grounded off frame.JBWELDED the angle iron on frame for temporary support. Will get flat bar physically welded on one non-supported corner as soon as I can.

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

I don't see why that won't work... :thumbup2: The only thing you going to have to be careful of is the debris piling up on the top side and possibly jamming the fan or plugging the face of the cooler. You might make it a part of your monthly inspection.

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randy4140    1
randy4140

Johnfak, Where did you get the cooler you are using, what brand ect. Randy

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randy4140    1
randy4140

Johnfak, and maybe others, I have a question not directly about your cooler setup, though I think it looks great. I have been having issues with my trans for some time and I feel it is related to heat, so I have been looking at different styles of coolers ect. I heard recently that some were removing the "check valve" that is in the stock "water to oil heat exchanger" on our trucks, it is on the right side of the motor. The trans lines go from the trans out to the exchanger then up to the cooler then return to the trans.My question then is this, Has anyone here removed the check valve? if so with what results? good/bad?What about eliminating the exchanger completely and going directly to the front cooler, as some say it can get "plugged up" causing a restriction in oil flowMy "source" claims a reduction of 20 degrees on his trans temp after removing the check valve

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

hmm - the other guys here will be able to help you more on this one .... but I'll give you my thoughts after playing around, and speaking with the three guys I am thinking of who had different but similar ideas.3 main places to measure tranny temp - testport on passenger side, pan , and hot line.I measure in test port and hot side. I am going to move that to pan and hotline. Pan will show me whats going into tranny and hotline will show me the hottest fluid is getting after TC when not locked up.Tranny cools in various ways.1) tc locked up. Like over 45 mph.2) Front OE cooler when moving - airflow.3) Deeper PAN to hold more oil - doens't heat as much4) A secondary cooler like mine.Anyway - I kinda took ideas from different guys. I don't think there was a true consensus - and each made good argument. ATF starts to degrade after 220 - which you will see in the hotline with lots of start/stop and no lockup, but its in the tranny thats most important below 220. So, as long as you have a good way to monitor temps - just like anything else - and you can keep the tranny temps under 220 in the tranny - then should be good.I think best way is an auxlliary cooler - so you get cooling when you are not moving (no airflow) - thats why I did it - and same price as deep pan. Finally - the check valve - I have heard on CF of guys removing it. I dunno - I think unless you KNOW its causing a problem why touch it. It could create other issues. The heat exchanger - if your not in a cold climate I could see why this might be worth taking out - but its good for people who live in Colorado for example (isn;t that where you a from? ) so heat can exchange into fluid to bring to operating temps quicker.So - I would probably leave that alone unless you lived in TX or something. And just look at an AUX cooler , some good guages and if you really needed to - a deep pan.my :2cents:

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randy4140    1
randy4140

JohnFak, I am in MI not CO but it gets cold here too...I just found a Derale cooler similar to yours at Jegs, and it was $165.00. Better price $$$wise but not sure how it compares with yours.So if I understand your installation it went like this, please correct me if I am mistakenYou went from Trans hot out to the factory exchanger, to your external cooler to the front cooler then back to the trans???

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

JohnFak, I am in MI not CO but it gets cold here too... I just found a Derale cooler similar to yours at Jegs, and it was $165.00. Better price $$$wise but not sure how it compares with yours. So if I understand your installation it went like this, please correct me if I am mistaken You went from Trans hot out to the factory exchanger, to your external cooler to the front cooler then back to the trans???

Sorry mate - on the road. Almost ... Tranny -> OE heat exchanger -> OE cooler on drivers side front radiator -> AUX cooler -> tranny IN So basically the return line to the tranny I cut the line out from the OE cooler and removed from tranny. I then connected soft tranny to line to/from AUX cooler. To connect AUX cooler line to OE cooler - I just used supplied barbed thread (on cooler) and bought a double sided barbed thread 1/2" for connecting the two soft lines at the front from lowes. To connect to tranny - I bought a 2 piece -8AN part from lowes - 8AN into tranny and barbed thread to soft line comming in. Seems to be ok. Jim (SASQUACH) who I got/stole most of my setup from just 'cut' the IN tranny line - and then used a metal hose clamps x2 on each connection - and he said its holding fine :):thumbup2: P.S - I noticed my tranny fluid on the ROAD is 20 degrees cooler just by having the AUX cooler - no fan even running - just due to extra airflow running over it. Normally 180 - not 160. Again I just have the fan and switch for around twon not locked up - hence its off when on highway.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

where's your relay, young man??!!

haha - yeah - isx is building it for me and I am going to get the 411 next week :):thumbup2: Electronics my flying blind zone

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retirednak    0
retirednak

I've got a silly question, what prevents rain spray from soaking the fan motor? I realize its sealed up from the factory,but running down the road at hwy speeds is bound to throw lots of water. The reason I ask is,I live in Alaska and we get lots of rain all summer long. Then the snow the rest of the year.I like your idea and would like to do that to mine. I unfortunately have to rebuild my transmission soon and want better cooling. I'm a tad concerned about the road spray and packed snow on a cooler mounted under the truck. I may be looking at the design all wrong and have nothing to worry about mounting it there.Thanks-Casey

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

I've got a silly question, what prevents rain spray from soaking the fan motor? I realize its sealed up from the factory,but running down the road at hwy speeds is bound to throw lots of water. The reason I ask is,I live in Alaska and we get lots of rain all summer long. Then the snow the rest of the year. I like your idea and would like to do that to mine. I unfortunately have to rebuild my transmission soon and want better cooling. I'm a tad concerned about the road spray and packed snow on a cooler mounted under the truck. I may be looking at the design all wrong and have nothing to worry about mounting it there. Thanks-Casey

Hey casey. Yeah - look I think thats a good point - being above the skid plate and kinda tucked behind the transfer case I think its mostly fine - but probably worth an inspection from time to time. I don't think rain would be too much of an issue - and you could angle the mount on a 45 degree to help it run off more (that was the design jim had). You could also block it off some more if youd like with a "splash" guard of some sort - the fan really just sucks (or pushes) air over the fins - so as long as its getting air - even from behind - its circulating that into the cooler. hope that makes sense p.s I did see one guy put it up front behind the drivers headlight - very tight in there - but possible and being forward of the wheels almost no chance of rain. I'd go with a splash guard and/or a 45 degree mount maybe :shrug:

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retirednak    0
retirednak

I think mounting at an angle would do the trick. I gotta figure out how to keep the snow from packing around it when I'm bashing through berms. :lol: Thanks

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Rogan    30
Rogan

wouldn't that create a 'vacuum' on the rearward snorkel side?

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

wouldn't that create a 'vacuum' on the rearward snorkel side?

But being behind the transfer case its hard to create a vacuum without passing wind to create it. (In theory)

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SASQCH    0
SASQCH

I've got a silly question, what prevents rain spray from soaking the fan motor? I realize its sealed up from the factory,but running down the road at hwy speeds is bound to throw lots of water. The reason I ask is,I live in Alaska and we get lots of rain all summer long. Then the snow the rest of the year. I like your idea and would like to do that to mine. I unfortunately have to rebuild my transmission soon and want better cooling. I'm a tad concerned about the road spray and packed snow on a cooler mounted under the truck. I may be looking at the design all wrong and have nothing to worry about mounting it there. Thanks-Casey

Casey, where in Alaska are you? I'm in Anchorage. John based his install on my install. I've run mine in (and out of AK) for over three years with no problems so far. Jim

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retirednak    0
retirednak

Small world isn't it. I'm out in the Knik area,a tad past Settlers Bay. Next time I'm heading to town,we'll have to hook up so I can see your cooler. If you want to PM me with your e-mail,I'll let you know when I'm heading that way.Casey

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

Casey, where in Alaska are you? I'm in Anchorage. John based his install on my install. I've run mine in (and out of AK) for over three years with no problems so far. Jim

yessirr- thanks man :thumbup2: FYI - just towed 1600 miles through MO to Phoenix AZ and never saw tranny temps over 170 degrees when locked up :)

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SASQCH    0
SASQCH

John - I just got back to Anchorage on the 11th from a trip to Montana pulling about 9K and never saw transmission temps above 135 in lockup. But then again the outside air temps were generally below 60 and down as low as 15 in the night time hours. The powered coolers are great. :thumb1:

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

John - I just got back to Anchorage on the 11th from a trip to Montana pulling about 9K and never saw transmission temps above 135 in lockup. But then again the outside air temps were generally below 60 and down as low as 15 in the night time hours. The powered coolers are great. :thumb1:

whaaa !! what mileage did you get ??? 9k fifth wheel/trailer (wind resistance) or flat trailer ?? Trying to work out if I can ever get better than 11-13mpg towing 10k 5th wheel. yes - thx for the info on the setup - made it easy :P

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SASQCH    0
SASQCH

whaaa !! what mileage did you get ??? 9k fifth wheel/trailer (wind resistance) or flat trailer ?? Trying to work out if I can ever get better than 11-13mpg towing 10k 5th wheel. yes - thx for the info on the setup - made it easy :P

Haven't hand calculated my mileage yet. The trailer is a 16' enclosed horse trailer 6.5' tall inside with a Vee front on a class IV hitch, not a fifth wheel or gooseneck. Scan gauge II told me my averages were around 13.4 going down. coming back I had less load (only had a partial back haul this trip) I'm guessing around 3500 to 4000 lbs including the trailer. I have a smarty and reprogrammed the ECM for the trip back with the economy + boost + timing program (#3) and set the timing advance to aggressive. The Scan gauge was then reporting 14.5 mpg. I kept my speed between 55 and 60 MPH. Total mileage was around 7500. When I'm pulling my living quarters gooseneck horse trailer (17000 K loaded) I get between 12 and 12.5 mpg. I would guess that your fifth wheel is quite high above the truck and has a lot of frontal area for wind resistance causing less mpg. What speeds are you driving? My guess is your best mileage will be right around 55MPH.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

Yeah I am 10000lbs and only getting 11-13. Running on Level 2 edge. Was wandering if I upgraded my turbo enough could I run on levels 3,4 etc ?? I only seem to be maxxing out my EGT's, tranny seems good at low temps .... just don't know abouth torque pulling like that. Would love to get a consistent 14-16 ........ thats what the 3rd gens seem to get on that weight. Yeah am towing around 60 generally and up to 70. Hard to keep at 55 over long distances but might need to try. I also like to accelerate into the hard hills.

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ISX    58
ISX

Yeah I am 10000lbs and only getting 11-13. Running on Level 2 edge. Was wandering if I upgraded my turbo enough could I run on levels 3,4 etc ?? I only seem to be maxxing out my EGT's, tranny seems good at low temps .... just don't know abouth torque pulling like that. Would love to get a consistent 14-16 ........ thats what the 3rd gens seem to get on that weight. Yeah am towing around 60 generally and up to 70. Hard to keep at 55 over long distances but might need to try. I also like to accelerate into the hard hills.

Mike says he gets the best mileage with everything maxed out (5x5). I know you didn't want to do that because it is hard on the trans but your right foot is really the factor in that. The timing and everything is more aggressive on level 5(which makes the engine more efficient) so that would be the setting you should be on for mileage. If you do 60mph up a hill, the transmission is going to need the same power input no matter what, if it takes 100hp to go up the hill then the trans needs 100hp. The levels make the engine *capable* of having more power but that doesn't mean you will use it, it will still only take 100hp. So you lay back on the pedal a little more on level 5. If you are on level 5 or level 2 and are determined to hold 60mph, the trans will see the same power either way, the engine will produce it differently but the trans won't care. So I say you stick it on level 5 but drive it the same "seat of pants" feeling that level 2 produced. Do not try and take advantage of level 5 and do 80mph up a hill, if it couldn't do it on level 2, then let off so you save your trans. You should also drive smoothly since the power will come on more aggressively. You can control everything with your right foot. You saw how my fuel plate and AFC was in my door panel.. my foot can do the same thing. I let off when the EGT gets too high and I don't floor it from a stop because I know it will smoke. I have driven it for months like that without ever puffing a cloud because I know its characteristics. You can do the same thing on level 5, just use your right foot and be smooth with it but also be smart with it by not trying to get more out of the engine than you know the trans can take.

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