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I have not seen a lot of info on these, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Will I see any benefit in putting traction bars on my truck? I know they keep the rear axle from twisting, not that I do burns outs and stuff, but I've heard it helps a lot with washboard roads and smoother take off with the clutch from a stop. Ive gotten used to it, but man there are still times the clutch likes to shake the crap out of you, usually when reversing up a slight hill (It has done this before and after a new clutch.)

 

What are the benefits? 

If im towing of hauling a heavy load, is there anything I need to keep in mind in regards to the bars? Like are there situations where they need to be disconnected for some reason. 

 

I'm not a big suspension guy, so pardon me if these questions are dumb....im stock height with 265 tires, and I'll be keeping it this way.

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Like this dual disc Valair started out with being grabby and shake the crap out the truck. I start launching in 1st gear and solved most of the problem but the reverse was bad trying to push trailers up a slight hill and have the clutch bucking and jump. After a about a year it started to fade out and quit. Now it smooth as glass forward or reverse. Last time I pulled the transmission out for failed syncro Weller truck (Abe) wanted me to pull the clutch and inspect. Which I did. The clutch was fine both friction disc no issues. The metal surfaces pressure plate was fine no hot spots, the center disc was fine on both sides now hot spots, then the flywheel was the same way with no hot spots. Reinstall everything and its still smooth. 

 

Still to this day no traction bars. 

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I loved traction bars on my toy trucks I had, they kept things from hopping and breaking. Not sure if they help on washboard roads, it does make sense that they should. Depends on how they are designed, I seen some that connect without accounting for travel back and forth, used as a single bar. I'm not in favor of these as they fix your axle in one place. Sure they would work for wrapping axle but it puts stress on leaf springs. You know how your drive shafts slips in and out of tcase/transmission, well with one solid bar it won't much if any and probably be a stiffer ride. I built my own using shackles, that way it could travel back and forth but won't allow the axle to twist. Best setup in my opinion is four link suspension using coil springs, kind of like what they did on newer trucks, much softer ride, more articulation, axle can twist.

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I've had the clutch for about 100k miles, it's still rough as all get out. Its a Southbend clutch, but like I said, it was rough before the new clutch as well. Do some track bars that you order account for some axel movement? Or are they all stiff? Appreciate the info thus far, thanks.

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I run traction bars on both of my mud trucks, both still on leaf springs. The only reason I would want to put them on the dodge is when backing heavy trailers, the leafs seem to flex more in reverse under heavy loads or high torque input, Atleast in my experiences. 
 

I don’t think it would help much with the grabby clutch, i didn’t noticed any difference in my power wagon with the 4-speed after they where installed. seemed to help with the rear end bouncing if taking off in off-road conditions though, like if your stuck up to the frame. 

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I would do it, and plan to on both mine. 

 

I strongly suspect that it would improve the ride on washboard/railroad tracks/roads where expansive soil is causing buckling in the pavement, at least when power is being applied. Even more so when a heavy trailer is involved.

 

I put new shocks on my 2012 and it would still buck like crazy under load with axle wrap when pulling. 

 

As far as the clutch grabbing.... My IH 886 tractor weights ~13k. It obviously has a solid frame with no suspension at all. It bucks occasionally (mildy) when releasing the clutch with no load. Take that for what it's worth, but I suspect track bars won't eliminate the bucking entirely.

 

Shouldn't have any issues with towing. I have been told the proper way to install them is to get as close to the next pivot (ujoint) on the driveshaft, like the trans/xfer tail housing or the carrier bearing. That is supposed to prevent more extreme angles of the U joint in the yoke as the suspension travels. Trigonometry and all that fun stuff. 

Edited by That Guy
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