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26 minutes ago, ColoradoColt said:

I also noticed when I let off the throttle in any gear, the rpm hangs at about 1100-1200, before dropping down to where it normally does(around 800 I think)...

 

Coasting with the clutch in that is normal. ECM can see road speed and holds the idle up for that 1,100 to 1,200 RPM till the road speed drops near zero. TPS signal should not wonder when at idle. 

 

28 minutes ago, ColoradoColt said:

I thought maybe that had something to do with APPS as well but it shows 0% throttle when it’s holding at 1200rpm

 

Nope that is correct the TPS value should drop to ZERO and stay there when idling. Shouldn't bounce or anything as long as your foot is off the pedal. 

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Injector lines need all factory clamps fitted. Pressure pulses breaks the tubing otherwise 

I figured they were important to help hold the lines steady with all high pressure pulsese they are exposed to. I lost my #5 injector about 3 years ago. Failed right near the head. There us a clamp th

So you want about 19° to 20° at 2,000 RPM in a cruise state. Then about 14° in powered state. Being your injectors are stock pop then you going to need a little extra timing.    13° (1,5k),

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On 10/27/2020 at 8:30 PM, ColoradoColt said:

Btw I had my injectors Set at 310 bar

 

So you want about 19° to 20° at 2,000 RPM in a cruise state. Then about 14° in powered state. Being your injectors are stock pop then you going to need a little extra timing. 

 

13° (1,5k), 17° (2k), 21° (2.5k), 25° (3k), 26° (MAX) would be a good starting point. This will give good launching power and spool quick. Max Load Timing Offset set for 3°. Then the Low PSI timing Reduct for 5° Scaling for 50%. Light throttle timing 2° and set your light throttle load so you can hold 65 MPH on flat ground. (mine is 21%) might need more...

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I'm about to believe there is no normal. My re-man 50's are down to 4% load and up to 805rpm idle within 200 miles. Some would say to replace them already. Another member has 860ish idle but IIRC around 10% load on his new ones. Seems every truck is different. Part of me wants to pull mine and have them popped to 320. But then 320 is not advisable on anything less than 100's I guess. It runs good and has a noticeable improvement in power over what I took out so they're gonna stay in for now. Just can't believe mine settled in sooooo much in 1/2 a tank of fuel.  :think: :ahhh:  :cry: :thud:

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.just pulled up to a light and it’s idling at about 680rpm. Even in park. Sounds like it’s missing....what did I do now ???

P0501 is the only code pulled from PCM.

i also have 2 ABS DTCs

917441EB-A846-4674-8D0C-8E8C00D7A9A7.jpeg

It also sounds really rough while driving down road

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So just got home. Pretty dark so I can’t see much. But fuel is everywhere! Checked all the lines and they seemed tight, before I check more tomorrow, does anyone have an idea on what could have happened or where it’s coming from? It’s wettest between 2-5 injectors. And the vp I believe the #4 line was wet but I was thinking it may have just dripped down it. Also I hear a high pitched whistle that sounds like a boost leak, but I did just find a crack in the radiator that’s whistling at me, so I guess I’m getting that tomorrow too. I did clean all my fuel lines today since I didn’t when I changed injectors. I also removed and cleaned the intake horn boots. So maybe I messed something up? 

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Okay so I just got done with a 20mile drive to feed my horses. After tightening the #3 fuel line at the injectors, I haven’t had any issues with rough running, idling or leaking... Man it was spraying everywhere before though. Also I think I have a pretty big boost leak. Unless my  1/16 inch radiator crack whistles with boost? 

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Injector lines can be a real pain to get to seal sometimes. I'm still fighting #1 for a weep. I've never had any spray or really dump fuel though. I guess the radiator leak could whistle since it is under pressure. Have you done a boost leak test? There's an article here somewhere.

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36 minutes ago, dave110 said:Have you done a boost leak test? There's an article here somewhere.

I have not yet, but I will check out that article and do that. I was hoping it’s just the radiator since I had already ordered one from rockauto and my current one doesn't leak coolant, just whistles at me when I turn the truck off out of the crack. I had the intake horn off and changed gaskets so it could also be that I didn’t torque it down correctly. The old ones seemed more like cardboard, and the new gasket was more like aluminum coated or something, much thicker. So is it possible I have to torque a little more then spec? I was going up a small grade when it sounded like a blew a seal from something and the whistle started.

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1 hour ago, dripley said:

A bit off topic, but do you not use any of the factory clamps on the fuel lines?

 

Glad you found your problem though.

I do not, I took them off when I did the injectors. I think I left one on each to help keep them together. Was that a bad idea?

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I figured they were important to help hold the lines steady with all high pressure pulsese they are exposed to. I lost my #5 injector about 3 years ago. Failed right near the head. There us a clamp there on 5 and 6 and mine was missing. Always thought that had something to do with it. May e someone here knows more about them than me.

 Dont loose the clamps, they aint cheap. I paid $8 for each piece of the clamp l was missing from Cummins.

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