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Im sure this has been asked but I can't find a thread. I have an 01 2wd 7x.008 153°VCO injectors, BHAF, HX35W turbo, banks brake with 4" turbo back exhaust when towing 12k lbs with no tuner my EGTs are pushing 1300° on a long climb but stable. With my superchips tuner it's much higher, too high. I am trying to figure out what i can do to get these down, if not the truck has to go. 

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From my own experience I can say 7x10 at 320bar with mild set up is where it's at. To each their own, but I had few different types/sizes of injectors in my truck and by far what I have now I love bes

here was my messing with it.         Keep in mind that 320 bar is not creating extra wear.  310 stock is only the pop pressure, the pump continues to build pressure's much hi

I have no coolant temp issues. Maybe 200-210. So i tightened the rod on my wastegate until it had no play then went a little further. Im now getting about 30psi of boost on hard acceleration in st

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Need to get headed toward real tuner and control timing directly like Quadzilla. I have got bigger injectors and running wire tap and towing RV in desert temps in Arizona and never crossed over 1,200*F. Timing has a big impact in EGT's.

 

Now I've got to ask do you have oversized tires? Common issue where people using oversized tires and 3.55 gears it will reduce your final ratio too low adding EGT's and engine load to the engine. 32 inch tires are the largest you can run on 3.55 gears. If you wanting to keep your oversized tire I suggest 4.10 gears.  

 

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Everything is stock but what i mentioned. Even without a tuner should the EGTs be this high? 

I was going to get a quadzilla but wasn't sure if it would solve my problem and didn't want to drop $1k for nothing. If this will solve my issue i have no problem doing it. 

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I shift out of overdrive as i start to climb which puts me at about 2300ish rpms at 60-65 and just under 1300° i can hold this speed and temp up most freeway grades just seems to high to me. 

That's without the tuner. 

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I have a boost fooler installed and an elbow, peaks about 24-25 on acceleration stable around 20 on hard climb. 

I don't run the tuner towing EGTs are out of control. 

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I would expect more boost from your setup if your boost fooler and elbow are working.   I'd start there.  Boost leak test and verify your elbow is working.

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29 minutes ago, 01cummins4ever said:

Have you checked for boost leaks? they can lead to excessive egt’s. 

well it looks like @Me78569beet me to the reply, but anyway message sent 

OK...

 

Just to point out something. Boost leaks have to be HUGE to be seen in EGT's. I can unplug my wastegate hose leave it open and pull 1 manifold bolt out. I can still make 43 PSI out of 49 PSI. EGT only slightly rises (+50°F to +100°F) but you can audibly hear the air blowing out the holes. Minor leaks that weep are not going to create a EGT problem. I guess I'm going to have to get out a video camera and make a video. Boost leaks have to be HUGE to create EGT issues. 

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You should be seeing 35-40 psi easy with your injectors, I would not go past 40 with your hx35. Get a adjustable boost elbow or other means of restricting wastegate to start opening at 34,35 PSI don't push it past 40 as it just creates high drive pressure. But you still need a good boost fooller so you don't throw codes for over boost. Can't go wrong with quadzilla and v2 tuning on the vp44 truck.

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I have a quadzilla boost fooler. I had to take the waste gate clevis off my hy for the hx since it didn't have one on it maybe i need to make sure the waste gate is closed all the way. I'll get an adjustable elbow. I thought the one i bought was adjustable but turns out it was an orifice.

I don't have head studs. How much boost before they are necessary? 

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10 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

You should be seeing 35-40 psi easy with your injectors, 

 

I don't think so, not without the tuner. I would guess with 50hp injectors he would be hard pressed to see over 26-28. I would plug the line and see what happens. I also have no problem running 1300 degrees. What  does your coolant temps get to on a hard pull? That is my main issue on a hot day, uphill with a load. 

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I have no coolant temp issues. Maybe 200-210.

So i tightened the rod on my wastegate until it had no play then went a little further. Im now getting about 30psi of boost on hard acceleration in stock and with tuner on performance. Better than it was. I also clamped some vice grips on wastegate line and there was no change. Not sure if that will help when towing but it's about 6psi more than before. 

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Like @NIsaacs said maybe 28 I was just judging from my 60hp injectors I had, even on level 0 I could have swore it went to 30s 

You can put a plug in turbo housing where the elbow is just to see if you get higher boost, if not then maybe your wastegate is not fully closed.

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That's why i clamped the vacuum line on wastegate. I know it's closed tight because i adjusted rod until no looseness then a couple more turns. My injectors are only about 40 horsepower. 

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3 hours ago, Zamboni said:

My boost elbow is just a bd orifice elbow, not adjustable. What kind of boost should i expect from this set up. 

I thought 24ish wasn't bad. 

 

Stock Injectors and Edge Comp on 5x5 I would pull at least 32 to 35 PSI on HX35W turbo.

 

Even on my Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injectors I was tipping over 40 PSI.

 

Quadzilla and +150 HP injectors I'm now at 49 PSI.

 

I'm starting to think his boost fooler isn't working correctly. Even with my Quadzilla removed and no boost fooler... I can still make a mere 24 PSI of boost with +150 HP injectors. 

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

It's a pressure line that's what pushes waste gate open, and the spring inside the wastegate is what pushes back to close it.

So clamping the line off should stop the wastegate from functioning. Correct?

So if it is my boost fooler that's fine. Im going to go ahead and order a quadzilla so i have something i can work with. In the meantime i will build me a boost leak tester and make sure i have no leaks. All my couplers and clamps are new so i think they're ok. I will check back in on this thread in a week or so and let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the suggestions. 

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Yeah lots of posts disappeared. Head studs are always a good idea I believe it has more to do with high timing, load at lower rpm. So if you drive nice you should be fine without studs till you get over 400ish hp. Jmo

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