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Mopar1973Man

A/C Gone...

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

Ok Gang... I need to pick someones brain... I've got a pretty good leak in the A/C system for it to leak out all pressure to 0 PSI in about 2 weeks. I've got a dye pack in the system but haven't noticed the green tint oil anywhere yet. I'm thinking of grabbing a single can of R134a and add it to the system for pressure and black light the whole thing again... Any ideas or suggestions? :shrug:

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MnTom    381
MnTom

Get a spray bottle and mix up some dish detergent and water. Get some pressure in the system and start spraying. Also make sure you check the compressor where the clutch is. Another thing you can do is put another can of R-134 in it and use a refrigerant leak detector. That way you can also check the drain and see if there is any refrigerant there. If there is the evap is probably the source of the leak.

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ISX    58
ISX

I would check all those fancy hose connections that you have to have a special tool to remove. My ford liked to rattle those around.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

I'm thinking about getting a o-ring kit and just redo the o-rings in the system... The only thing else is to soap the compressor and check it for leaks... :rolleyes:

FYI - I just had my highpressure line replaced, my heatercore/evaporator replaced behind dash and all charged back up .......... leak - same as you . The place I had it done said it was a bolt on the rear of the compressor. I didn't see it as wife took it in - but she says she saw the die. So another place to check ....... soap /die etc. friggin frustrating .........

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elshadow001    0
elshadow001

Mine was at the high pressure cutoff switch near the bottom of the truck, and another at the compressor seal.Good luck they can be anywhere.

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Wild and Free    1,107
Wild and Free

The most common way to find a hard to find leak is to use air pressure. We usually use nitrogen as you can get more pressure inside the system but air works ok too. If it is a good leak 120 psi shop air with a regulator adapted to the charge fittings will find a leak but most times it takes about 150-250 psi to find the leaKS YOU DESCRIBE. which is why we use nitrogen as the nitrogen compressor will go to over 4000 psi.

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

I had the same though of just pressurizing the system with compressed air and soaping the system also looking for the funky green dye with black light... I do the black light first before the soap to prevent washing the dye off.

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MnTom    381
MnTom

The most common way to find a hard to find leak is to use air pressure. We usually use nitrogen as you can get more pressure inside the system but air works ok too. If it is a good leak 120 psi shop air with a regulator adapted to the charge fittings will find a leak but most times it takes about 150-250 psi to find the leaKS YOU DESCRIBE. which is why we use nitrogen as the nitrogen compressor will go to over 4000 psi.

If you even attempt to go to 4000PSI Make sure I am not anywhere close!!!! Anything over 250 psi is dangerous for the hoses and compressor seal.

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Wild and Free    1,107
Wild and Free

If you even attempt to go to 4000PSI Make sure I am not anywhere close!!!! Anything over 250 psi is dangerous for the hoses and compressor seal.

LOL.............. I was just saying what a nitrogen compressor is capable of.

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

Well... I hooked up the manifold gauge shot about 100 PSI in the system fire the compressor for a short while to stir the dye oil around to give me a wet spot that is fresh. I black lighted everywhere on the system and found nothing. So the next step was to look for phyiscal damage. :rolleyes: I found some... Well I feel like a horses :moon:... I kept a piece of hardware mesh in found of the radiators for years helping keep the bugs and debris out of the coolers and radiators. On the lower left corner as you face the condenser you can clearly see where the hardware mesh had been rubbing the condenser main tube. So I'm going to break out with JB weld and patch it for now and see if that might of been the cause. I'm still going to pressurize the system again and soap it when it a bit warmer today... But This is what I found so far...

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elshadow001    0
elshadow001

Well... I hooked up the manifold gauge shot about 100 PSI in the system fire the compressor for a short while to stir the dye oil around to give me a wet spot that is fresh. I black lighted everywhere on the system and found nothing. So the next step was to look for phyiscal damage. :rolleyes: I found some... Well I feel like a horses :moon:... I kept a piece of hardware mesh in found of the radiators for years helping keep the bugs and debris out of the coolers and radiators. On the lower left corner as you face the condenser you can clearly see where the hardware mesh had been rubbing the condenser main tube. So I'm going to break out with JB weld and patch it for now and see if that might of been the cause. I'm still going to pressurize the system again and soap it when it a bit warmer today... But This is what I found so far...

I think I would be looking for a used one in a junk yard, I don't have much faith in any epoxy product.

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elshadow001    0
elshadow001

If you use epoxy, make sure you get the metal roughend up so the epoxy can get into the pores and bond. Roughend as in like using 320 grit paper.Use a good cleaner like brake clean or some acetone to clean the surface. I would rather use acetone that is what we used when i did that type of work for Douglas Aircraft Company.Cyclohexane is the best but most don't have it. If you do use Cyclohexane Keep it off your body it is a cycle solvent and it is addictave like a drug. I saw a guy at work that was super addicted to it.It being a cycle solvent goes right thru the pores of the skin, but is a hell of a cleaner. :thumbup2::wow: Effects on Humans: Cyclohexane is an irritant of the eyes and mucous membranes in humans. By analogy with the effects in animals, exposure to high concentrations is expected to cause narcosis. Exposure to 300 ppm caused irritation to the eyes and mucous membranes in workers [Hathaway et al. 1991]. Exposure to higher concentrations is likely to cause dizziness, nausea, and other narcotic effects. On repeated contact, cyclohexane is a defatting agent. Cyclohexane has not been shown to cause the hematologic changes associated with exposure to benzene

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Wild and Free    1,107
Wild and Free

Any new developments here?

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

Well I stopped in the local NAPA sotre and order a set of O-rings for $10 and proceeded to replace all the o-rings in the system. Be aware there is 1 O-ring missing in the kit for the condenser up front so remember to pul it and take it with you for size. Re-assembled everything and place a vacuum on it and it held for at least 20-30 minutes while I did other things like straightening all the condenser fins. So since it held a good vacuum I figure its time to toss my last 3 cans of freon at it and hope for the best.

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smokeythedodge    0
smokeythedodge

Well I stopped in the local NAPA sotre and order a set of O-rings for $10 and proceeded to replace all the o-rings in the system. Be aware there is 1 O-ring missing in the kit for the condenser up front so remember to pul it and take it with you for size. Re-assembled everything and place a vacuum on it and it held for at least 20-30 minutes while I did other things like straightening all the condenser fins. So since it held a good vacuum I figure its time to toss my last 3 cans of freon at it and hope for the best.

and compressor oil! I hope it works for you!

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

So far the second ride out and about 4 days after the repair and still holding good cold A/C. So now I change all O-ring except 1 at the condenser and the 2 on the back of the compressor. The evaporator is new this spring. So I think I got it all covered for now... :pray:

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Wild and Free    1,107
Wild and Free

Just a side note about vacuum on the system, I have seens many many systems with slow leaks that hold a vacuum for infinity but add pressure to the system and it will be dead in a few days or less. So do not trust your system based on a vacuum test alone. It will let you know if there is a big leak but won't help on the small ones. As far as adding oil to the system................Don't do it unless you replace a lot of components at the same time or blow a high pressure hose and it blows a lot of oil oit when it blew, the compressors come precharged with all the system should need to operate great. Too many times people add too much oil and then have a poor performing ac system as the freon capacity has diminished.

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

Just a side note about vacuum on the system, I have seens many many systems with slow leaks that hold a vacuum for infinity but add pressure to the system and it will be dead in a few days or less. So do not trust your system based on a vacuum test alone. It will let you know if there is a big leak but won't help on the small ones. As far as adding oil to the system................Don't do it unless you replace a lot of components at the same time or blow a high pressure hose and it blows a lot of oil oit when it blew, the compressors come precharged with all the system should need to operate great. Too many times people add too much oil and then have a poor performing ac system as the freon capacity has diminished.

Thanks for the tip on the vacuum test... As for the oil... I learn my leason long ago about buying freon with a oil charge over time it will flood the system with oil and like you said decrease the performance. So very true... To empty the system of oil might be a bigger PITA that most think...:rolleyes:

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cajflynn    7
cajflynn

Why do you need A/C in Idaho? You will be working on covering your grille soon enough.

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

Why do you need A/C in Idaho? You will be working on covering your grille soon enough.

Ummm... Like today it was 88-90*F it nice to have it when it is hot... :rolleyes: Trust me... I'll be much happier when the temps fall to around 20-40*F... (Ahh...)

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JJK98CTD    0
JJK98CTD

I like to leak test with nitrogen, and you could mix some referigerant with it too. And then do leak test electronically or with bubbles. I like the dye, but it can be blown around with the oil. Then you put black light on it and its all over.

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Mopar1973Man    3,779
Mopar1973Man

Funny part is with the UV dye I've got in the system it shows up like a sore thumb without a doubt... But in all the times I check the system I never found any leaking out... :banghead: post-2-138698170407_thumb.jpg

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