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Originally I had a power steering fluid leak, found a line I thought was leaking, replaced, still leaked, replaced other line just to makes sure, ended up finally seeing Hydroboost leaking (didn't have a brake problem) Replaced Hydroboost, then intermittently pedal would almost go to floor, so got another Reman Hydroboost, now it's locked my brakes up, unless I'm doing something wrong it's going to be #3 reman going on this am.

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Sound like something wrong in the hydroboost to go both ways. Like the spool value is stuck why the brakes are lock.

 

I'll keep my hydrobooster and just rebuild it. Already done one. Not bad but be aware of the input rod seal you might need to cut and weld the rod.

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Blue,

 

Keep the one you have now (if it is not too late) and check the rod that pushes the master cylinder.  Like Nissacs said it sounds too long. 

 

It will take you a few minutes to measure, you gotta reach in to depths and relate that dimension to the actual mounting surface....  but once you work it out you should be able to tell if it is actuating the brakes.

 

GL  HTH

Hag

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On 11/23/2020 at 6:10 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Sound like something wrong in the hydroboost to go both ways. Like the spool value is stuck why the brakes are lock.

 

I'll keep my hydrobooster and just rebuild it. Already done one. Not bad but be aware of the input rod seal you might need to cut and weld the rod.

Unfortunately, I didn't have time to order a kit and rebuild mine, was on the road in Florida when I noticed it leaking, didn't think of rod length when installing the reman in a hotel parking lot. I did figure out the rod was to long, but I think the alternate rod that came with the 2nd reman is to short. I do have two hydroboost's at home and am going to order a kit and rebuild on. But I took the rod out of my original, original, the one I replaced years ago and the rod is longer than both rods that came with the second reman. 

On 11/23/2020 at 3:33 AM, NIsaacs said:

Sometimes the output rod length to the master cylinder is off. Some are adjustable, some you may need to grind shorter. What happens is they can hold the master cylinder down slightly.

The 1st reman the pedal would almost bottom out sometimes, I never trust the quality of remans, the 2nd (I got once home) one seemed fine at first, but then I could gradually feel the brakes staying applied until finally they were smoking, by the time I got back to my shop the were all but completely locked up. Next morning was get a 3rd reman coming, I figured I try driving the truck, drove around for 3-4 miles no problem, was ready to get back on the road, went to leave and brakes locked again. Had commitments, put shorter rod in, still doesn't feel right, pedal goes to far down sometimes.  

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I get it on the road repairs are a pain and yeah I get that the idea of rebuilding a hydro booster in a hotel parking lots isn't happening either. 423k miles later it might be on my list of things to do in the near future too. I've been keeping my fluids changed and flushed out often so maybe I can get it to hold up a bit longer. 

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My only experience with  these hydroboost units is that off the shelf they are all the same no matter what vehicle they are on, Ford, Chevy, Toyota or anything else that uses them, the only thing different is the brake rod length which should be unique to your vehicle, if You didn’t save your original it maybe a crap shoot trying to find one that fits. I did rebuild mine s few years ago but did it with my original so their was no second guessing of the correct rod length. @Blueox01 you might have better luck if you can find one in a wrecking yard out of another 2nd gen close to yours 

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Agreed they are basically the same. 

 

Differences fall in 2 places (not including accumulator pressure, which is designated by anodized color)  input rod and output rod lengths.    I have noticed a difference of the boots that go near the firewall as a difference between my GM version and my dodge version  (could be a year thing, not necessarily a end user spec), but that would have not prevented the use, just sealing around the hole in the firewall.

 

Hag

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