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On 1/31/2021 at 4:39 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Are you going mechanical or going to try and warranty fass?

Oh jeez, I'm just going to replace it. Heck, it's nearly 8 years old and served me well. Besides I'm installing a new one (Fass 165) right before I install a ton of supporting mods for my compounds build. New DFI 7x.010 injectors. I will be sending my one back to be rebuilt so I can wrap it up in a bag and stick it under my back seat as a spare. 

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Alright guys/gals. I had to jump start my truck on Sunday to get it back to my house from the shop where the VP was replaced. 30 minute drive. Truck ran fine and fuel pressure was 17-20 the whole way. Monday I fired the truck up for just a few minutes, didn’t drive it but was checking to see if the battery was still too low and needed a charge. Didnt touch it yesterday, but today go to get in it to drive, turn the key and nothing. The overhead lights/headlights/gauge cluster is all working. The starter doesn’t click or anything, doesn’t do anything at all. The lights go dim so something is pulling juice. My grid heaters are not hooked up because I keep my truck plugged in on a timer. I have ensured it’s in park and my shifter isn’t off, keeping it from starting. Where should I start looking? I will check fuses tomorrow. 

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First with a volt meter test combined battery voltage.  if below 12 volts test each battery's voltage and charge as needed.  Once charged check  condition of both batteries; check for shorted cell or other problems.  If batteries test OK then do a peracetic voltage draw test.

If battery voltage is above 12 volts the check battery cables by doing a voltage drop test and starter motor.

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7 hours ago, IBMobile said:

First with a volt meter test combined battery voltage.  if below 12 volts test each battery's voltage and charge as needed.  Once charged check  condition of both batteries; check for shorted cell or other problems.  If batteries test OK then do a peracetic voltage draw test.

If battery voltage is above 12 volts the check battery cables by doing a voltage drop test and starter motor.

Checked battery voltage this AM, 9.88, have put the charger on and will check the batteries again shortly. However, the headlights wouldnt come on, nor the dash lights at 9.88 volts. 

Edited by Red Rambler
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7 hours ago, IBMobile said:

First with a volt meter test combined battery voltage.  if below 12 volts test each battery's voltage and charge as needed.  Once charged check  condition of both batteries; check for shorted cell or other problems.  If batteries test OK then do a peracetic voltage draw test.

If battery voltage is above 12 volts the check battery cables by doing a voltage drop test and starter motor.

 

At any rate... If replacing batteries only buy in pairs. Do not only replace one battery. The old battery will pull the new battery down to the same level and strength. Only replace with 2 new battery. 

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

At any rate... If replacing batteries only buy in pairs. Do not only replace one battery. The old battery will pull the new battery down to the same level and strength. Only replace with 2 new battery. 

I did replace my driver side battery roughly 6 months ago, but they only had one at oreillys. So, my passenger side battery is older. Could be part of the issue. My alternator is maybe 2 years old, but will check it as well. 

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This is bad... Basically all you done is shorten the life of that new battery to the the level of the old battery you left in the system. Great way to take a 800 CCA battery and reduce it instantly to the same level of the other battery. Hence you ONLY replace batteries in PAIRS. If they only have one then go to another store and buy a pair at the same time. 

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9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

This is bad... Basically all you done is shorten the life of that new battery to the the level of the old battery you left in the system. Great way to take a 800 CCA battery and reduce it instantly to the same level of the other battery. Hence you ONLY replace batteries in PAIRS. If they only have one then go to another store and buy a pair at the same time. 

Yes, and this is gonna bite me sooner, rather than later it appears. I replaced it during the summer so the cold starting wasnt an issue, but my truck was down for a week getting the new VP and the temps were below freezing most everyday...so, needless to say, batteries were zapped. I was able to jump start it to get it back home but now, its time to replace both batteries at once. 

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4 minutes ago, Red Rambler said:

Yes, and this is gonna bite me sooner, rather than later it appears.

 

Sorry to hear that but that's why I'm such a stickler for the battery stuff when you figure the eight batteries power my house cost $4,800 last time I replace them I really don't want to damage those batteries because even one damage battery I've got to replace all eight battery at a much high price than what I paid for the last batch. Same with the truck I try to stay after it as well but my last batch I've ran them dead 3 times every time a batter drops below about 10.5 to 11.0 it causes damage to the battery and equalizing most likely will not fix. 

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3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Sorry to hear that but that's why I'm such a stickler for the battery stuff when you figure the eight batteries power my house cost $4,800 last time I replace them I really don't want to damage those batteries because even one damage battery I've got to replace all eight battery at a much high price than what I paid for the last batch. Same with the truck I try to stay after it as well but my last batch I've ran them dead 3 times every time a batter drops below about 10.5 to 11.0 it causes damage to the battery and equalizing most likely will not fix. 

Its just part of it. I would rather be in my situation than replacing your batteries at $4,800 for your house!! I can see your need to be a stickler. I am just ready to drive my truck at this point, so next paycheck, I will be getting a few new batteries. How often do you have to replace your house batteries? 

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2 minutes ago, Red Rambler said:

How often do you have to replace your house batteries? 

Hopefully not for 20 years if taken care properly. First batch failed at 13 years being I wasn't charging the first batch right and then allowed them to discharge too deep and then a few cell also got ran low on electrolyte. Now I'm check monthly for electrolyte levels, monthly equalize charging, and then shut the city power off and load test them. I should be able to run the hour silent for at least 8 to 12 hours with no external charging (no solar, no hydro, no generator). Already got 11 years on this set of batteries and still powering 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. 

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4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Hopefully not for 20 years if taken care properly. First batch failed at 13 years being I wasn't charging the first batch right and then allowed them to discharge too deep and then a few cell also got ran low on electrolyte. Now I'm check monthly for electrolyte levels, monthly equalize charging, and then shut the city power off and load test them. I should be able to run the hour silent for at least 8 to 12 hours with no external charging (no solar, no hydro, no generator). Already got 11 years on this set of batteries and still powering 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. 

That's pretty awesome stuff. Appears you have them dialed in to be as efficient as possible. If there is ever the need to make our Cummins solar powered in some fashion. I know who I'm gonna call :lol:

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2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Also, check alternator charging rate with full charged batteries.  It should be 14∓.5 volts.  

Batteries are charged to 12.49, and when running the alternator is charging to 14.26, but I didn't have any accessories on. Will check again later after letting them charge a bit more. 

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I just changed batteries on the truck this fall after almost 10 years not because they were bad but because one of the studs had a tiny crack that acid was escaping from. I gave my old ones to my step dad for general use. I check electrolytes once a year on all my batteries fill them up with distilled water if needed. My boat trolling batteries are usually the ones need water every few years, truck every 3 years or so. One thing to check is when you get a new set make sure they are full, mine were low a bit. 

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11 hours ago, Red Rambler said:

I did replace my driver side battery roughly 6 months ago, but they only had one at oreillys. So, my passenger side battery is older. Could be part of the issue. My alternator is maybe 2 years old, but will check it as well. 

@Mopar1973Manis dead right on that one. Your new is only as good as the older one. 

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I notice @IBMobile posted... 

 

Quote

Also, check alternator charging rate with full charged batteries.  It should be 14∓.5 volts.  

 

That right there is actually controlled by the battery temp sensor. As the battery temp rises it can be as low as 13.2V. Then as battery temperature cools then it can be as high as 14.8V. Charging voltage can and will change depending on how long the vehicle is driven and outside temperature as you drive. In all my time driving back and forth to Ontario, OR I can say it can be to that extremes I posted. Hot summer day idling in traffic it can seriously drop close to the 13.2V. 

 

 

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Update and a question. I got 2 new batteries on Tuesday, here it is Friday and the batteries are still setting in my laundry room, inside. Any ill effects to letting my truck sit with zero power for too long? Its been a really cold week, and next week not much better. My truck is currently iced over and planned on installing the batteries tomorrow and getting it up to temp to thaw it out, take it for a drive. We are expecting snow Monday/Wednesday next week so the truck wont be driven much next week either. Should I just wait til it warms up past freezing to install my batteries? 

 

Here are the batteries I went with from Oreillys:

image.png.7309f6ed819c2a6ae3e6b24a7b20a426.png

Edited by Red Rambler
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