Injector questions, which vendors?

[jag]

Dieselfuture, when I received mine, they did look like bolts. That's because they have the nut threaded to just cover the nut. I was happy when I opened them & seen that they were studs & not bolts. They also thread to the bottom, so there is a lot of stud in the head.

Like they say, looks are deceiving.

[Dieselfuture]

1 hour ago, jag said:

Dieselfuture, when I received mine, they did look like bolts. That's because they have the nut threaded to just cover the nut. I was happy when I opened them & seen that they were studs & not bolts. They also thread to the bottom, so there is a lot of stud in the head.

Like they say, looks are deceiving.

I'm looking for my pictures to see if I've gone 

New I wasn't that crazy, mine were bolts. Guess it's time to upgrade to studs, just kidding I think these will be fine. I can sleep now 

[dripley]

8 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'm looking for my pictures to see if I've gone 

 

Gone or going back for seconds? I had to look at the picture a couple times to see they were studs, sure looked like bolts at first.

[Dieselfuture]

3 minutes ago, dripley said:

 

Gone or going back for seconds? I had to look at the picture a couple times to see they were studs, sure looked like bolts at first.

I think I'm ok, they were bolts, you can see arp on top of them

[jag]

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I think I'm ok, they were bolts, you can see arp on top of them

What is the torque spec for the ARP bolts? 

[Mopar1973Man]

I remember the last one for mine was 125 foot/pounds. Done in 3 steps up. It all explained in the instructions when you get the studs. DO NOT do a hot torque! Even stated in the manual from ARP.

[Me78569]

ARP's are studs.   

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 2, 2021 by Me78569

[Dieselfuture]

5 hours ago, jag said:

What is the torque spec for the ARP bolts? 

I honestly don't remember, I might have put them to factory torque spec. I went with longer bolts just for a piece of mind so I don't pull threads out. 

13 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

ARP's are studs.   

 

 

 

 

 

Actually I have A1 head studs not arp, but yes what you circled is a stud. We're talking about rocker arm bolts.

That other bolt on the right is a apps mount

[Me78569]

oo, lol.  yea some stuff arp makes is bolts.  "studs" get thrown around because of the head studs.   ARP makes a bunch of bolts and studs.

[crf450ish]

54 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I remember the last one for mine was 125 foot/pounds. Done in 3 steps up. It all explained in the instructions when you get the studs. DO NOT do a hot torque! Even stated in the manual from ARP.

Why not do a hot torque?

[Mopar1973Man]

16 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

Why not do a hot torque?

 

Good way to break a stud. high chances of hot torque will make the studs fail... Again straight from ARP - DO NOT do a hot torque. Why would you want everything expanded and try to clamp the head tighter? Why not do it cold when everything is condensed and get a good clamp on the head as the engine warm up everything expands and tightens more. 

Edited February 2, 2021 by Mopar1973Man

[Dieselfuture]

2 hours ago, crf450ish said:

Why not do a hot torque?

There is a video on YouTube guy breaking will start hot torqueing arps on a cummins

[Mopar1973Man]

Yup... I forgot about that and he did a good job of breaking that stud.

[Dieselfuture]

On 2/2/2021 at 10:52 AM, Dieselfuture said:

There is a video on YouTube guy breaking will start hot torqueing arps on a cummins

I swear autocorrect is messing with me, it changes things after I submit, I reread what I typed looks good then later it's all screwed up. Instead of ( will start ) it should have said ( a stud ) 

[crf450ish]

On 2/2/2021 at 6:11 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Good way to break a stud. high chances of hot torque will make the studs fail... Again straight from ARP - DO NOT do a hot torque. Why would you want everything expanded and try to clamp the head tighter? Why not do it cold when everything is condensed and get a good clamp on the head as the engine warm up everything expands and tightens more. 

I haven't read the installation directions (yet). That makes sense. What's your opinion on using anti seize on head studs? Only asking because in refineries we use anti seize on mild  carbon steel studs on heat exchanger caps as well as piping flange connection bolts. Refineries require anti seize on the threads, both sides of the washers and both sides of the nut. This is to reduce the co efficient of friction in an effort to achieve the proper torque spec. 

 

I've always been taught to NEVER use anti seize on any engine component fasteners, except exhaust manifold fasteners. 

[crf450ish]

I tried to reply but it's not showing up. Idk what's going on. 

[Mopar1973Man]

1 minute ago, crf450ish said:

I tried to reply but it's not showing up. Idk what's going on. 

You hid your post so now I got it unhidden.

 

3 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

What's your opinion on using anti seize on head studs?

 

The kit comes with the antiseize. All spelled out in the directions.

 

 

[LorenS]

16 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

and both sides of the nut

I'm sure they have their reason for putting anti on the side flapping in the breeze and I'd love to know what it is!

[Dieselfuture]

15 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

 

I've always been taught to NEVER use anti seize on any engine component fasteners, except exhaust manifold fasteners. 

I never had a problem using anti-seize on certain fasteners in the motor. Internal components I generally use arp lube same with head studs or other studs. Exhaust things I use high temp anti-seize, has copper in it I believe. What's crazy to me is how much torque specs can change from using motor oil to arp  lube.

[Royal Squire]

8 minutes ago, LorenS said:

I'm sure they have their reason for putting anti on the side flapping in the breeze and I'd love to know what it is!

Makes it easier to get it all over your clothing