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My truck is still pretty new to me. The other day I was snooping around under the hood (cold motor) & saw the linkage rod that runs from the actuator to the waste gate bell crank. I grabbed it & tried to move it, pulling on it toward the front of the truck without any success - felt like it may be seized up. I don't know if it has thrown any codes (no reader yet) - there is no check engine light illuminated. Should I be able to move it by hand? Was I trying to move it the wrong direction? Should I pull the turbo assy off & free it up? Thanks, Joe in St Louis

To open the wastegate the rod/lever would need to go toward the firewall/cab. If you get a good grip on it you could move it but on the truck it's so awkward I would tend to say you couldn't move it, but you are maybe tougher than me. :pant:
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  • 4 weeks later...

How the heck do you guys even get the turnbuckle on there? I can't even find those parts under there!

By feel :) You could do it if you had someone underneath looking up ....... to help guide But easiest is feeling the parts in the original diagram and hooking onto it :) and tighten down :)
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I found a turnbuckle with one ring & one hook. A minute with the hacksaw & I had 2 hooks... but danged if I can find the place to clamp it... maybe I just haven't crawled far enough under the hood. (Years ago, when I worked on inboard boat engines... I'd take my ball cap & put the brim over the sharpest bolt, maybe a jacket if I had one on... so I could lay across the engine to reach underneath it. There were many times one of us would crawl into a spot & very nearly get stuck in there. I was much thinner then.)

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Basically as per this picFind the wastegate head and get the hook on one side of it (on teh TAB).THENget the other hook at the other end of the wastegate - near the C-CLIPthen TIGHTEN.You need to "feel it" as you can't really see it as its under the turbo and flange :) Not as easy as it looks - take your time :)

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Hey, guys. If you use a solid J hook as has been shown in this thread you are completely disabling the waste gate and that could be expensive if you overspeed or over pressure the turbo. The commercially produced J hooks have a sprinig that adjusts so the waste gate can be adjusted as to when it opens. Do a google search for "J hook for turbocharger" and you will see what I am talking about. If it was safe to use a solid hook the companies that build them commercially would not put a spring load on them. Just my opinion. Jim

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Hey, guys. If you use a solid J hook as has been shown in this thread you are completely disabling the waste gate and that could be expensive if you overspeed or over pressure the turbo. Jim

Hey Jim Good point :thumb1: There are other ways around it tho ........ 1) Do you have enough fuel to even push the turbo above 35-40psi ......... on a XZT+ and stock injectors you will probably struggle - but for others yes :) 2) Set you QUAD/JUICE to defuel at said PSI :) I have my QUAD to defuel at 40 PSI and it works very quickly/accurately everytime :) I probably trust it just as much as my mechanical boost (wastegate open) elbow at this point. just some more thoughts/options but good point - the commercial ones do give you that benefit :):thumb1:
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This is a good point... I did not repeat from my other posts I am running stock injectors, HY turbo and only XZT+ only looking for a little more for towing. HOWEVER, if upgrades go to the higher level, a commercial J hook would be a better solution. Others reading this thread might not have this information. It is always wise to remember what you are about.

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i have also tried to move my waste gate by hand with no success so on a stock motor how can i tell if my waste gate is siezed or not.I don't have any gauges yet so should i be able to tell some other way like how the truck would or would'nt performe.On monday i am going to order the 3 in 1 gauge from glow shift with fp , ext and boost .

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i have also tried to move my waste gate by hand with no success so on a stock motor how can i tell if my waste gate is siezed or not.I don't have any gauges yet so should i be able to tell some other way like how the truck would or would'nt performe.On monday i am going to order the 3 in 1 gauge from glow shift with fp , ext and boost .

This exact question has been asked and answered hundreds of times on this and many other forums. Answer number one is by brute force with a gripping device like a channel lock pliers on the rod from the actuator to the waste gate arm. there is considerable preload on the waste gate so don't expect that it will be easy. Answer number two take your turbo off the truck and remove the circlip and pull the rod off of the arm and see if the arm is bound up or will move. However with this method you have the problem of how to move the rod enough to get it back on the arm, so it isn't recommended. Answer number three depends on whether you have an HX35 or a HY35 turbo. if there is a metal tube connecting the waste gate actuator to the compressor housing you have an HY35 and cannot do this one. if you have a rubber tube making the connection then take the end of the tube lose from the compressor housing and apply regulated air pressure slowly increasing the pressure up to 25 psi max. At around 18 psi the waste gate should start to open. If it hasn't opened by 25 psi the waste gate is stuck. Answer number four build a 4" pressure cap from a PVC pipe cap and a rubber sewer boot with a hose clamp (someone on here has pictures of one) for the turbo inlet and again use regulated air pressure to actuate the waste gate ans in # three above. With this you can also check the integrity of the whole intake system for leaks. Another idea I had but have not tried is to use a length of 14 gauge soft copper wire, hook it over the waste gate arm like a J hook would attach and attach the other end of it to the waste gate actuator bracket. then take the truck out and drive hard to bring up the turbo pressure open the waste gate and stretch the hook in the end of the wire which you could check after the run. If it don't straighten out the J either you don't build enough pressure to open the waste gate or it is stuck. Jim
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hey Jim Thanks for yhe reply . I think i will try the wire trick and if that does'nt work then i'll give the #4 a try. I realize the question has probably been asked several times but i am not that familar with the site to know how to get imfo on a particular subject without reading all the threads until i find out something about it so from now on i guess i will have to ask less questions and do more reading thank again Kevin

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Hey Kevin, A week or two ago I had my air cleaner off which gave me easy access to the waste gate lever with a vice grip. I was convinced mine was stuck, but it moved easily with the vice grip attached. Joe in St Louis

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Ok, fellas, I am still learning all the performance aspects to my CTD! What is this j-hook? and what does it do? I'm kinda confused, but you know it doesn't take much to confuse a redneck from AR!!!:lmao::lmao::lmao:I run my edge attiitude with juice cts withe the boost set to kick off when I reach 30psi the light comes on and is supposed to defuel? Do this do it or do I need to do this jhook mod?

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Ok, fellas, I am still learning all the performance aspects to my CTD! What is this j-hook? and what does it do? I'm kinda confused, but you know it doesn't take much to confuse a redneck from AR!!!:lmao::lmao::lmao:I run my edge attiitude with juice cts withe the boost set to kick off when I reach 30psi the light comes on and is supposed to defuel? Do this do it or do I need to do this jhook mod?

Just holds the wastegate closed longer (so enables higher boost) - for HY35 turbo's only. You probably have a HX35 -> but if your reaching 30PSI either way your fine as you don't want to run a HY35 past 30 anyway :):thumb1:
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How do you tell the difference between the two?

* HX35 has 12cm exhaust housing - HY35 has a 9cm * HX35 uses a wastegateline with elbow to control the actuator - hy35 doesn't * One says hy35 on the plate - other says HX35 (sometimes). :) PIC is HX35 on left

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