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Does anyone have good knowledge of what the turbo angles should be?  As best as I could estimate on my truck with the current turbo installed (due to rust, certain components will be destroyed upon removal - and I don't have a spare vehicle right now) it seems:

  1. the exhaust manifold mounting flange is 48 degrees (measured from horizontal).  EDIT:  May be closer to 50 degrees based on my truck, after removing turbo for better measurement.
  2. The compressor outlet is "around" 20 degrees from horizontal.  EDIT:  I'd say I would up more around 25 degrees or a little steeper to keep everything very well aligned and no stress on the rubber boot.

 

I would like to change the turbo back this weekend, and really want to get my turbo clocked correctly this evening so I have just one less thing to worry about after taking a Sawzall/smoke wrench to certain parts of my truck.  I have failed so far at getting that compressor snap ring back in, so once it gets back in I don't want to have to make corrections!

Any help appreciated!  I don't have the right tool to measure that compressor discharge flange angle.  I removed the boot/elbow one evening this week to measure the angle, but then discovered I haven't the right tool to do so.  @dripley this may interest you once I get the data.  Hopefully we can further refine the path blazed by @Blueox01 so BenzeForce can just offer these turbos already setup for our application.

Edited by LorenS
tag Dripley, etc.
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I would like to thank @Joe_Poolfor the info on toold. Picked up the Lang and it looks very suited to the job,  

Here are 2 tools that work quite nicely:   Lang 87 (USA made) and ATD 4031M (Taiwan, but well made)   In the pictures the blue handled one is the ATD.  I prefer the Lang, but they

A buddy came over this afternoon so I got the new turbo on and my new Diamond Eye 4" exhaust installed. I did NOT do anything for the waste gate, it's just wired shut right now. My HY-35 gate has

Posted Images

Do you still have the compressor housing on the HX still together? If so I’d lay them side by side and go from there. That’s how I did my hybrid. AKA Okie engineering. 

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12 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

Do you still have the compressor housing on the HX still together? If so I’d lay them side by side and go from there. That’s how I did my hybrid. AKA Okie engineering. 

I hadn't thought of that!  Maybe it is still together, I really don't remember but will check when I get home.  It's sitting in the 'extra parts' area and I had forgotten about it.

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Why are you having so much trouble with a snap ring. If you're talking about how it comes off when you're holding it with pliers because of the angle of the clip ends, what I did is put couple tack welds on the end of the clip so pliers don't slide off. Make sure to use soap water and pressure test for lakes, I couldn't stop mine from licking and ended up using small amount of RTV. I even tried some lapping compound to make two surfaces be perfect wasn't enough. I don't have tack welds in this picture yet.5974d5664120b_2017-07-2311_52_07.jpg.070d68d52f587fd4340781ceeb8da59b.jpg59750f53030a3_2017-07-2315_56_56.jpg.6c21c92dca8bf52dfdc90bf0c85b72d1.jpg

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7 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Why are you having so much trouble with a snap ring

I guess because I haven't put tack welds on the ring. Yet.

 

2 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

Don't forget to clock the oil drain flange

Yes. Adjusting the center to the turbine housing I'd the easy part, just 4 bolts!

The answer to my above question seems to be that compressor outlet is at ~25° from horizontal, rising towards the passenger side. Pretty rough measurement using a Milwaukee level with a rotating vial.

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I pulled the snap ring on mine and it appears to me I will have to hang it from the manifold and mark the proper orientation then take it off and reinstall the clip. That is one man sized piece of hardware. 

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Did a little work this evening, the old turbo is held on by one loose but on a stud, the oil drain hose has top hose clamp loose. A quick cut through the exhaust pipe with the band saw and it should be ready to come out. I think I should have purchased a new drain pipe and bolts, there's no way those bolts are coming out of the turbo!

 

I do have new gaskets, thankfully.

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I found bolting the turbine housing on by its self makes it much easier to bolt to the exhaust manifold flange.  Then bolt the cartridge and compressor housing on. 

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Posted (edited)

A buddy came over this afternoon so I got the new turbo on and my new Diamond Eye 4" exhaust installed.

I did NOT do anything for the waste gate, it's just wired shut right now. My HY-35 gate has been rusted shut since I bought the truck 62k miles ago, so no big deal to me! Turbo lag is a little noticeable compared to that tiny model, but sure feels good when it kicks in. My HY had 2 studs in it and two in the manifold, this turbo does not have the studs (drilled out, not tapped) so it got some bolts.

 

I used the exhaust with the muffler and holy smokes is it a lot quieter at the back of the truck; obviously the engine still sounds like dump truck in a nitroglycerin factory. Very satisfying to finally hear some turbo whistle while accelerating!

 

Was shocked the oil drain bolts came out of the old turbo, but were removed "on the bench", not in the truck. Had to pull the oil filter to remove turbo, downpipe, and oil drain as an assembly.

KIMG0145.JPG

Edited by LorenS
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On 3/5/2021 at 10:43 AM, Dieselfuture said:

Why are you having so much trouble with a snap ring.

 

Would a large pair of ratcheting snap ring pliers work?  That's what I use when taking the large snap ring off Mitsubishi turbos.

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3 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

 

Would a large pair of ratcheting snap ring pliers work?  That's what I use when taking the large snap ring off Mitsubishi turbos.

Probably work better than regular channel locks I used. My ring tabs were bent in enough so that pliers would want to slide off, so finally I put some tack welds on the ends and that was enough to grip. I'm sure there better way but I usually go back to torch, hammer, welder for help, works most of the time.

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20 minutes ago, Threadzy said:

What are all your timing parameters set at?

On my Adrenaline?

Daily LKS 210305.json
Max Load Timing Offset:  1*

Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3.5*

Timing Reduct Scaling: 60%

Light Throttle Advance: 3*

Load Limit:  40%

16

19

22

25

27

 

CANbus:

0 PSI = 100

Basically steps up at 2% per PSI.
+7PSI I hit 115% and just keep it there.
 

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9 hours ago, LorenS said:

 

 

I used the exhaust with the muffler and holy smokes is it a lot quieter at the back of the truck; obviously the engine still sounds like dump truck in a nitroglycerin factory. Very satisfying to finally hear some turbo whistle while accelerating!

 

 

KIMG0145.JPG

 

 

I agree, a good muffler is good. I started with a 4" MBRP w/muffler delete. That lasted about a month, then installed a small Dynomax muffler. Still too loud, so I installed a muffler off a Peterbilt:) It is a Walker/Napa EXH22936, an economy Donaldson M090544, standard 51"x9", it is huge but fit no problem. I really like it.

 

 

1129201129.jpg

1129201349.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Personally I went back to straight pipe. Yeah everyone tells  me it's  loud but sure helps to warn deer I'm coming. For me the quieter the vehicle the more risk to hitting deer. Same principal of why Harley riders straight pipe too. Nice part is it fairly quiet in the cab while cruising.

 

As for clocking the turbo on my truck was super easy. Mounted the center section hooked up my exhaust brake to the back of the turbo. Then lined up the compressor housing and just squeezed the snap ring and put it back in place. Another way is to line everything up and then mark it with a Sharpie Marker and then remove and assemble on the bench and line it up to your marks. Then install... More than one way to skin a cat.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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The Sharpie method got us there. Not sure what kind of magic pliers you have for that snap ring. If I have to do it again, a giant set of needle nose will be sacrificed to make a giant set of snap ring pliers. Or do the spot weld trick.

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Here are 2 tools that work quite nicely:

 

Lang 87 (USA made) and ATD 4031M (Taiwan, but well made)

 

In the pictures the blue handled one is the ATD.  I prefer the Lang, but they both will remove and install an HX35 snap ring(HX35 snap ring in pictures).

20210307_140912.jpg

20210307_140542.jpg

20210307_140818.jpg

Edited by Joe_Pool
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