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Gents:

Have a battery draw down and my shop traced it to the Seat Belt Timing Module. DAP called 10 sources, my shop has called multiple and no luck. 

I've seen some videos how to bypass but not ready for that yet.

At this point my plan is to go to a junk yard and harvest a used unit, but would certainly prefer a new or remanufactured one.

Any thoughts or direction would be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks guys:

Neither Module Masters and Auto Computer Specialists can help.

Looks like it's off to the junkyard. The closest one has a '99 (my year) and several '98s, so should be good.

Maybe I'll buy 2 to have one in reserve! 

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  • Administrator

Might open up the old module that is damaged and see if you spot any burnt parts or circuit board it might give clue on how to protect it from failure next time. 

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I'll open it up and check it out.

Went to the junkyard and they had one '99- and the module was sitting on the floor.

There were 5 '98s and 3 had been harvested. One was the same number and the other was different.

So brought 2 home for $17. Going to the shop today to check f it also is drawing down the battery. 

Someone I spoke with on the phone offered me a used one for $495.

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  • Administrator

Most of the salvage yards around me don't even have a diesel truck in them. most are bought before they hit the dirt. $17 for two modules was a damn good deal. 

 

The reason to pop it open and look for damage might prevent plugging in the new module to have it burn up in a short time because of a wiring issue, short, or bad solenoid for the lock control. 

 

Another option is to find a seat from 2000 to 2002 you should the newer design like I've got then ditch the whole module issue. Might take a bit of work to get seat belt light and stuff right. Like my truck the seat light is directly control by the driver side seat belt latch. That's it. 

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So here's where I am now.

The seat belt retractor solenoid in the driver's seat clicks when the key is turned off- hardwired to the battery, not the ignition. Pretty certain that's what's killing my batteries. Been sniffing around the 'net and see this is an old issue.

All 3 seat belt timing modules I now have show the same thing with that solenoid and the clicking. All 3 will lock the seat belts as soon as you turn the sbtm over, which is what it should do, so think all 3 are good.

 Is there any current consensus how to remedy this? We're thinking about wiring the sbtm to the ignition switch not hardwired to the battery.

Again, really appreciate the knowledge here! 

 

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Also-

since it is a seat belt TIMING module, should I hear that clicking for 30 minutes after the ignition is turned off?

Currently, I hear it all night if I don't pull the battery disconnect.

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  • Administrator

It should shut down after about a minute or so tops. Like the ECM and PCM typically drop out after about 10 seconds. But there should be no power to that module after a period of time. 

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I had a problem with the drivers side on my truck 98.5.  Seatbelt light would not go off IIRC. Well here that is a MOT safety check fail. 

I replaced the whole peice in the seat back, easy to do as the seatback cover is not too bad to get off, problem was actually finding one, luckily a member on here pulled one from a yard and shipped it to me here in the UK which I was most grateful for, I've had a ebay search going since for the same part and no luck.

I did get quite into it to try and figure out the problem but I can't now remember much of how it all works, what I do remember is it is all a bit mickey mouse and not up to a great deal, something in mine had broken but can't remember what

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I have a similar problem. I replaced the center seat with a sub woofer and shoved the module under it. After a half hour of driving it will lock the seat belts. I have to shut down for a few minutes to reset it. It is a bad setup without the module the seat belts won't  protect you.

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  • Administrator

Still better to mod the seat to a later series WITHOUT the seat belt module. Like my truck does NOT have such module and works off of swing weights.

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5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

mod the seat to a later series WITHOUT the seat belt module

So does the later belt retractor fit the seat ? and what happens to the light on the dash as any warning lights on the dash here is a straight MOT fail

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IIRC the light on the dash for a 98.5 is a warning that there is a problem not that the belt is actually buckled or not, I never fasten my belt and there is no light to tell me or chimes for that matter.

I also can't remember whether my belt locked when I had the problem....... poor memory or what !

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Just trying to find  away for you to jump forward to the newer style seat belts then you dont need the module for the seat belt to make the reels lock. The driver buckle is just 2 wire. I've done it in the past just jumper wire between the two pins and the seat belt light will not come on. 

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I wasn't ripping your suggestion to peices I assumed someone had already swapped to the later and was sort of talking out loud about the dash warning on the 98.5 and hopefully someone was going to chime in (squse the pun)  oh yeah you just ~~~+++*** to fix that.

You are right though it is a pants system and needs the bin, I for one really don't need a tiny little box deciding if my truck goes turtle I'm trussed and hung up like a dead cow, although with me being in the UK a project to figure it out is a no no as I have zero access to parts except from the USA and shipping is that expensive I'd need to know 100% the parts would work and swapping in seats is a no chance.

Mine are working as they should at the moment and I have the same deal in my 3500 but I would take a 98.5 left and a right belt retractor if anyone knows of any for sale  

Sorry Hi jack over 

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Thanks for the advice, guys.

I had the seats re-upholstered a few years ago in 2-tone so don't want to upgrade to newer ones.

I'll do the re-wire by pass.

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