WHERE TO DRILL A CC/SB 4WD 2500 2001 FUEL TANK FOR A SUMP? WHAT BRAND?

[Dmaxgpe]

Great to know. I really like the look of the Fleece kit. 

 

Thanks again guys for all the info!

 

[Mopar1973Man]

I've ran my AirDog 150 over 250k miles (17 years) before the pump motor failed (bearing failure). I've got a AirDog 165 GPH pump now its a 4th gen pump from AirDog and zero issues. 

[Silverwolf2691]

Throwing my hat into the ring here, my brother has a 2001 p-pump 24v. (bought it like that). we had to redo the fuel system on that truck a few times. currently runs a sump and a FASS titanium (I think, been a while since we did that swap.) I personally am not a fan of sumps in general with one exception, the Beans Diesel sump. Its only one hole with a center mounted screw for tightening the internal clamp. Most times, when sumps leak its because people don't deburr or silicone the multitude of screw holes on other types of sumps. Of all the fuel related issues with that truck, the sump isn't one that has caused us issues.

 

My truck runs a draw straw into the canister, through the top of the module, instead of through the tank. wanted to be able to revert to semi stock or start over if I goofed an install instead of finding a whole new tank. I have ran the truck until the gauge was on empty, to the point that my truck was sputtering going around corners (don't do this, its bad for everything). I think I put my fuel pressure regulator return into there as well. Its been a few years since I did that upgrade/fix. Sending unit float came off the stick, plus fuel pressure regulator install, then drilled the wrong area for the draw straw on the old sending unit, so new unit was needed. got the hole right, and gutted the in-tank pump from the new unit. Wasn't hard, all honesty, the hardest part was using a Dremel to clean out the underside of the sending unit. its got a stiffening grid on the underside where its clamped into the tank.

 

I'm also running a full mechanical Fuel Boss lift pump setup from Glacier Diesel Power. One issue I have with it is priming the system after either a pre-pump line replacement or if I drain the tank dry. But its only a pain because you need a couple wrenches and a power drill to spin the lift pump. Get adjustment bolts loose, move pump over to be able to get the belt off, hang on pump pulley. Loosen the vp44 inlet fitting. Tighten drill chuck so it can't spin the jaws. Put belt around chuck, Spin the same direction the belt moves when the engine is running. Stop when fuel comes out of vp44 inlet fitting. Tighten vp44 inlet fitting. Then crack injector lines and finish purging the air from the system. Other issues I had was lack of fuel pressure with included check valve/pressure regulator (fixed) and it's in front of the main belt, so the fuel pump belt has to come off to replace or remove the serpentine belt. but two of those issues are a rare occurrence and the other issue was fixed with an actual fuel pressure regulator.       

 

   

[Mopar1973Man]

Kind of like now I've got a air leak in the fuel system of the Beast (2002 Dodge). I can just bump the starter and re-prime the entire system using just the AirDog. Like shown above the mechanical pump would leave me stuck going through that entire re-prime process. One reason I don't really like the mechanical systems UNLESS now you do the extra plumbing to add the stock lift pump back for priming pump then add in the check valves so the stock lift pump can prime and then be bypassed after the mechanical pump is primed. I know I've got to replace the crossover tube o-rings and injector o-rings.

[Silverwolf2691]

@Mopar1973Man, I do see your point. But my scenario is usually on the off chance that I loose prime to the inlet side of the pump. If it's on the pressure side, the truck cranks a bit longer but will start. As I'm writing this, I realize that might mask a few problems that would otherwise become very evident. The pics I included are the flow rates of the Fuel Boss as shipped normally and with the hyper drive kit. I was going to make an argument about the flow rates at start up but I think that would be like trying to fill a colander with water. The only part I could argue is that the Fuel Boss pumps while cranking while the electric pumps don't (I think, unless that's the pulsing when you bump the starter). Other than that, the Fuel Boss is usually shipped with a hobbs switch to control the factory fuel pump to take care of priming the system with a key bump. 

 

Fuel Boss normal install for any one wondering: 

https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/files/98-5-02-fuel-boss-install-manual.pdf

 

 

Full mechanical was my decision, and I have to live with some of the draw backs.  I'm not saying its best for everyone. Maybe I have just been lucky in that I haven't had issues with loosing prime so I haven't had to deal with the issues I stated more than a small handful of times.  

[JAG1]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've ran my AirDog 150 over 250k miles (17 years) before the pump motor failed (bearing failure). I've got a AirDog 165 GPH pump now its a 4th gen pump from AirDog and zero issues. 

Yeah, in rethinking options, I still think I want to stay with the electric lift pump on the frame. JMHO, I hope both my Raptor 150's perform as well as the AirDog. So far so good..

[Mopar1973Man]

10 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

The only part I could argue is that the Fuel Boss pumps while cranking while the electric pumps don't (I think, unless that's the pulsing when you bump the starter).

 

ECM is at 50% duty cycle reducing the fuel pressure to typically 7 to 10 PSI while cranking which isn't a problem with a mechanical being the starter only rolls over at about 200 RPM. Starting pressure for a mechanical pump would be really low while cranking. No problem there. I've got an old video of cranking pressure and run pressure. You can see the pulsing power to the lift pump with a bouncing fuel pressure. Again since my AirDog is relay controlled I'm not worried about ECM issues. I will admit my location has really helped with gelling issues and debris issues. You can see the skid plate gaurds the filters. Helps a bunch on keeping snow and mud off the pump too.

 

 

[dripley]

I did not have the longevity that Mike had on my AD. I have 2 failures in the first 8 to 9 years. But AD has warranted both and I now have the same 4g pump Mike has. I hope last as long as MIke's first one. We shall see. The heads are very easy to replace. If had to buy the head each time that would have upset me, but I did not. There are pro's and cons to both, so pick your poison.

[Dmaxgpe]

Bought the Fleece so tank is coming down. I figured it should go in pretty well. BTW is the old BHAF like my truck has a Napa 2907 or something like that? Seems like I recall a list posted somewhere. Cleaned the engine bay in prep for injectors and fuel system and noticed air filter was looking pretty rough.

 

Thanks

 

[Tractorman]

Napa 2790 is the one I purchased.

 

- John

[LorenS]

I bought a Donaldson B105006 and it fit really well in the space. This is my first go around with one. I figured the bigger the surface area the better. Not sure what the WIX/NAPA crossover number is.

 

Edit: Nevermind! The 2790 is even bigger, according to IBMobile's article.

Edited June 24, 2021 by LorenS

[Dmaxgpe]

I remember asking about a Predator pump from PDD and they told me it was discontinued due to failures? I see GDP has something similar that has been out awhile. I like the idea of mechanical too. What is the best most proven mechanical option?

Good deal thanks guys 

I will try to find one tomorrow. 
 

Thanks again 

[Silverwolf2691]

A couple of us have a Fuel Boss from GDP, myself included. If i had to guess, PDD was trying to push their pump too far. GDP I dont believe has an option for 12v trucks. The ppumps take a loooot of fuel volume and pressure, especially when competing. 60+psi is not uncommon, same with dash 10 fuel line. (At least once you start into the 13mm plus ppump range). The Fuel Boss is 1/4 or 1/2 inch npt into dash 6 fittings. So the pump itself becomes a restriction. Most step up to a Waterman or Aeromotive mechanical pump to supply the fuel hungry ppumps.  They flow in the 5 gpm plus range. An Airdog 220 is around 2.5 gpm.

 

I believe Glacier is the most proven, but not the first. The mitusa or the assassin was first but i think both are now defunct. 

[IBMobile]

2 hours ago, Dmaxgpe said:

Seems like I recall a list posted somewhere.

 

 

[wil440]

3 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

I believe Glacier is the most proven, but not the first. The mitusa or the assassin was first but i think both are now defunct. 

DTT Assassin is available  from @dieselautopower right here in the vendors section  or it was until covid.... not sure if thats made any difference to availability, I know it has for some stuff

Mines been fitted now for 2 years 

 

Edited June 24, 2021 by wil440

[Dmaxgpe]

Awesome info. Everyone has been a big help while trying to update/ upgrade my 01 cc/sb 4x4

 

Thanks

[dieselautopower]

We have a number of 03-07 kits and are waiting on some of the pulleys so we can convert them to 98-02.  We also carry a bunch of replacement parts for the Assassin.

[Silverwolf2691]

7 hours ago, wil440 said:

DTT Assassin is available  from @dieselautopower right here in the vendors section  or it was until covid.... not sure if thats made any difference to availability, I know it has for some stuff

Mines been fitted now for 2 years 

 

 

I stand corrected.  

[Dmaxgpe]

I installed the Feece system in the driveway yesterday. I am glad I went with that kit (forced me to drop the tank) because I had a fair amount of crap built up in the tank to clean up. The system is well made and quiet. Took all day for me to do everything. I will try to sell the Raptor I guess. Thanks for everybody's input on the questions.

Sorry Fleece