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Well it finally happened! QUADZILLLLLA


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I feel like your timing is way out of whack..

 

I agree with @Threadzy, bump low psi timing reduct to 5 and put 50% in for scaling. (I run 100% for scaling, just in case you want to try it)

Add some cruise timing (light throttle timing adv).

Start at 30% for light throttle load limit then work backwards.

 

Try 12,16.5, 21, 25.5, 30 for the timing sliders. Your possible Dragon Flow pump might also have a large impact on your timing curve. Actually, it might be semi negated by the large injection lines.. need to do some digging on that..  

 

Your fueling curve is a bit weird (odd jumps in fueling) and  and is a bit quick on the fuel (factory fuel by ~8psi).. 

 

Personally I like linear fueling curves, I have 0-5 psi as a flat spot because that where I run mostly when driving, then each psi is +2 from the flat spot. Above 20 psi is +4 but I'm thinking of removing that and keeping the +2 all the way. Too much smoke (for me) when it gets above 20 psi..   

 

10 hours ago, Stanley said:

I just have  a fear of the timing being way off

 

There isn't a large enough range for the timing to do damage, just makes drivability poor. 

 

Edited by Silverwolf2691
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I definitely appreciate the input!

 

1 hour ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

 

I agree with @Threadzy, bump low psi timing reduct to 5 and put 50% in for scaling. (I run 100% for scaling, just in case you want to try it)

Add some cruise timing (light throttle timing adv).

Start at 30% for light throttle load limit then work backwards.

This is done and I'll try it out on the way home along with the other recommendations.

 

1 hour ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Try 12,16.5, 21, 25.5, 30 for the timing sliders. Your possible Dragon Flow pump might also have a large impact on your timing curve. Actually, it might be semi negated by the large injection lines.. need to do some digging on that.

Yea, I have no idea on the pump. It prolly will remain a mystery!?!? 

 

1 hour ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Your fueling curve is a bit weird (odd jumps in fueling) and  and is a bit quick on the fuel (factory fuel by ~8psi).. 

I tried to make it smooth from what ever it was 85 on up maybe a little more jump towards the higher end, if I'm understanding you right. 

 

So you suggest starting at say 100 at 0-5 psi then add 2 on top everyone  and at 20 psi add 4 on top? 

According to my "manual" boost gauge I roughly in the (3-9 psi) ish range just cruisin. Just for reference.

 

Another thing I have to address, I have the common issue of the wastegate hitting the turbo oil drain line (DAP- stainless braided line kit), and as suggested slight bend in the rod to clear etc. Well I massaged everything to where it functioned so I thought when I first got it together, during that time I never saw that much boost always stopping at 40psi so I tried to adjust it but no luck. 

So is there maybe a different style wastegate or something to go in it's place? 

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Canbus should not be ramp from the defensive zone to max. Not a efficient fuel map either. You should have zone of 100% fuel where you normal cruise. This way your not just in a power fuel mode all the time.

Posted at the same time, thought I'd add. 

So as I mentioned above start at 100 in my normal cruise range 3-9 ish then add 2 on top till 20 psi then add 4 on top till max. 

This would be a good daily tune to start with I'm assuming. 

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Whatever psi you have when when cruising, is where your flat spot should be. Mine happens to be around 0-5 psi. I'm mostly in town in my day to day (50mph and down). I'm dealing with smoke issues right now and I'm actually starting my +50s at 85%. Not sure why but that's its own thread..

 

so my fueling curve looks like this

0-5 psi: 85%

6-20 psi: +2 from 85 (ends up around 108%)

22-30 psi: +4 (ends at 128%)

 

Try it and see how that works for you.  

 

You don't need the +4 on the end psi's, that's just my tune and I'm debating about pulling it out anyway due to smoke reasons.

 

If you get the cruise timing up, you can drop the boost to almost nothing. That's why I have my tune set up the way I do. I run around with almost no boost while maintaining speed..   

 

Quadzilla is hard to just go "do this, do this, do this and you should get this." because we have the refinement in fueling and timing you can't just crowd source info. Everything gets tailored to your individual truck. Its almost the way the standalone ecu's are. You can get something to start the motor with a call, but that's about all it will do, start and idle, maybe rev. its going to knock, spit fire and smell like raw fuel though. You still need to get in and tweak and tune almost everything to get it running right.   

 

48 minutes ago, Stanley said:

Another thing I have to address, I have the common issue of the wastegate hitting the turbo oil drain line (DAP- stainless braided line kit), and as suggested slight bend in the rod to clear etc. Well I massaged everything to where it functioned so I thought when I first got it together, during that time I never saw that much boost always stopping at 40psi so I tried to adjust it but no luck. 

 

Might need a boost elbow or a spring gate. Spring gate goes off of drive pressure rather than boost pressure. I think for safety/liability reasons the wastegate is shipped at 40 psi. 

Edited by Silverwolf2691
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49 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Might need a boost elbow or a spring gate. Spring gate goes off of drive pressure rather than boost pressure. I think for safety/liability reasons the wastegate is shipped at 40 psi

I think you're right, my hybrid turbo with hx40 wastegate actuator which may be the same as a 35 opens up around 40 PSI. I tried boost elbow and didn't like it, so I put a plug in the compressor housing where the hose connects. Been this way for years now, between my tuning and the wastegate spring not able to hold past 40 PSI I'm sitting pretty good. Plus I don't want to push this turbo past the limits and blowing it up, has plenty of power the way it is, my next step is probably twins.

Top picture is level 3 can bus maxed out, bottom picture highest level 5 in my case, can bus and wiretap maxed out. Basically my boost and drive pressure is 1:1 on current set up, I built my own boost elbow, but I really don't need it the way it's working out.

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PXL_20210812_223124060.jpg.299bb6db99ed26805514de8442cdfe5f.jpg

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+50s and maxed out wire tap and can bus while sled pulling net me 30 psi with a closed off wastegate. I think the drive pressure might be blowing the waste gate open though.. Haven't wired it shut to test the theory, might actually be the full max amount of boost I can hit sustained. 

 

@Dieselfuture, I like the vent ornament. 

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Well drove it home with new tune didn't really play with it or get on it... I got a miss or knock coming from injectors I think. Hard starts cold or hot - progressively got worse. Today it was knocking pretty decent and scared me so I took it easy home. 

 

I'll have to get in touch with dap again....

 

So that homemade boost deal you made looks interesting. How did you get rid of the wastegate and that operation? Is there any pre-made things like that? 

 

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2 hours ago, Stanley said:

 

So that homemade boost deal you made looks interesting. How did you get rid of the wastegate and that operation? Is there any pre-made things like that? 

 

I still have wastegate it just doesn't get opened by boost pressure, instead drive pressure opens it because the wastegate actuator is only so strong and can't really hold it passed 40 psi which is fine with me. The guy that built my turbo said I shouldn't push it passed 40 anyways. Even if I will put another spring to hold the waste gate shut longer or use a jhook to hold it shut period, it'll be out of it's map and ready to blow. It puts out plenty of power for a little turbo the way it is.  

So basically you can control boost more than one way, boost elbow, wastegate, tuning.

My homemade boost elbow in the picture is not final product, I modified it some. Picture shows how it works. It still needs a tiny hole drilled and spring shortened, you can use another ball bearing on the bolt side so the spring doesn't bind with bolt, etc. Picture is more for an idea.

Oh also if anyone wondering why my egts are so low, the isspro gauge to the right of boost gauge is after the turbo, it's about 200 degrees cooler then pre turbo, that spot is where my quad prob is.

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That pretty neat... 

Yea I'd like to just rid of the waste gate honestly, it was proll getting weak to begin with plus new drain line etc and having to modify things, I don't think it's fully operational. I used to be able to peg a 60 psi gauge now it shows its only going to 40 and holding on my mechanical gauge. 

That's why I'm looking for different ideas on this, never really had to mess with waste gates other than adjustment. 

Talked to DAP for a bit yesterday, gonna send another new set of injectors out today, I'll get them Fri and installed. 

The drivability/pull/ just feel of the engine after new was awesome but slowly lessened (they have a machine that eliminates this "break in" issue ) then now it sounds like a ping/miss/knock with rough idle and smoky again, #3 & # 5 you can really feel the pulse in the lines and cracking them somewhat changed noise but not as prominent as previous experience. The second set was same injectors I had ordered originally just rebuilt this 3rd set will be a new set, possible inherent issue with ones I had both times. 

That's my rant/update for this morning. Now back to work lol. 

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Got the injectors in, no hard starts as this this morning, and no pinging/knocking. 

Now I can get back to tuning lol. 

So with the excel spreadsheet for tuning, how do you send file to your iquad/device -tablet in my case? It doesn't work via email and can't get blue tooth to work. And to get a new tune on the sheet when I clicked the link in the thread for a blank one I can't open it. Something not jiving...

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I'll see if I can get a pic of it all on my tablet in the morning. Basically I downloaded the file somehow managed to get my test tune or default tune to it on my laptop then used that to layout tune that everyone advised. I couldn't get it to send to tablet. I tried exporting  tune to my laptop, I downloaded it and it can't open it, needs a special program? So I can't really send or receive anything from either device. Even tried sending one from tablet to phone and vice versa to have same tunes on each device in case one runs out of battery while using gauges. No luck...

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This morning I added +2 to the fuel all the way up changed 1500 to 13*, 2000 to 17*, 2500 to 21.5* and 3000 stayed at max. 

 

Also this is the same problem when doing data logging, just can't get it to work? 

The blank tune file on the thread about this* does not work, some weird file name that I've never seen and can't open it. 

 

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